E-Locker Override Mod?
09-17-2011, 03:48 PM
#371
Yeah all it's doing is bypassing the tccm and just directly engaging the locker. Just wire the 12v to a switch and whenever the switch is on the lockers on. I actually used the pull out part of the **** and a relay as my switch so it looks stock.
09-17-2011, 03:57 PM
#372
Good Job!
09-17-2011, 04:43 PM
#373
Yeah I planned on doing a write-up, just need to tweak the relay setup a little bit.
But basically I just took apart the 4x4 **** and trimmed the plastic to where it can pull out in the 2wd position.
Then found a wire in the back of the switch ( need to check the color) that puts out 12v when its pulled out. I used that to trigger a relay that powers the locking differential. I also put a diode in to prevent feeding the tccm 12v when its in 2wd (not sure what the computer would do seeing the signal in 2wd, and didn't want to fry anything)..
But 4x4 locking still works as it did before, and when it tries to disengage bc of the speed limit it still stays locked.(computer will think its unlocked but it will still be locked.)
Cost me about 15$ and looks as stock as possible.
ETA: Heres the wiring diagram I made up
But basically I just took apart the 4x4 **** and trimmed the plastic to where it can pull out in the 2wd position.
Then found a wire in the back of the switch ( need to check the color) that puts out 12v when its pulled out. I used that to trigger a relay that powers the locking differential. I also put a diode in to prevent feeding the tccm 12v when its in 2wd (not sure what the computer would do seeing the signal in 2wd, and didn't want to fry anything)..
But 4x4 locking still works as it did before, and when it tries to disengage bc of the speed limit it still stays locked.(computer will think its unlocked but it will still be locked.)
Cost me about 15$ and looks as stock as possible.
ETA: Heres the wiring diagram I made up
Last edited by CP3; 09-17-2011 at 05:01 PM.
09-17-2011, 08:04 PM
#374
But 4x4 locking still works as it did before, and when it tries to disengage bc of the speed limit it still stays locked.(computer will think its unlocked but it will still be locked.)
Cost me about 15$ and looks as stock as possible.
ETA: Heres the wiring diagram I made up
I've wondered, though, since I originally mentioned a simple 12V diff lock override switch how the AdvanceTrac/RSC systems might function and possible negative effects on driving characteristics when the diff is locked, the PCM doesn't know it, and tries to make a correction... Certainly having the computer try and brake a single rear wheel isn't going to have the proper effect if the axle is spooled
Might just put you in a full spin instead of preventing one
Even if you turn off as much as possible with a 5+ second press of the stability control button, the ESC and RSC are going to turn back on after 35mph unless you are in 4-Lo-Locked. I presume with the full Raptor PCM/TCM/Switch that the AdvanceTrac gets shut off and stays off.Maybe test some higher speed 2-Hi-(locked) slides in a wide-open area so you don't get surprised by how it might behave.
09-17-2011, 08:23 PM
#375
Nice work getting this done... I suggested something similar a few pages back but didn't ever take the time to actually buld/try it. Good call on trimming the existing switch rather than having to order a Raptor switch (or adding a completely independent diff-lock switch as I suggested) and adding the diode. Definitely more stealth/factory looking.
I've wondered, though, since I originally mentioned a simple 12V diff lock override switch how the AdvanceTrac/RSC systems might function and possible negative effects on driving characteristics when the diff is locked, the PCM doesn't know it, and tries to make a correction... Certainly having the computer try and brake a single rear wheel isn't going to have the proper effect if the axle is spooled Might just put you in a full spin instead of preventing one Even if you turn off as much as possible with a 5+ second press of the stability control button, the ESC and RSC are going to turn back on after 35mph unless you are in 4-Lo-Locked. I presume with the full Raptor PCM/TCM/Switch that the AdvanceTrac gets shut off and stays off.
Maybe test some higher speed 2-Hi-(locked) slides in a wide-open area so you don't get surprised by how it might behave.
I've wondered, though, since I originally mentioned a simple 12V diff lock override switch how the AdvanceTrac/RSC systems might function and possible negative effects on driving characteristics when the diff is locked, the PCM doesn't know it, and tries to make a correction... Certainly having the computer try and brake a single rear wheel isn't going to have the proper effect if the axle is spooled
Might just put you in a full spin instead of preventing one Even if you turn off as much as possible with a 5+ second press of the stability control button, the ESC and RSC are going to turn back on after 35mph unless you are in 4-Lo-Locked. I presume with the full Raptor PCM/TCM/Switch that the AdvanceTrac gets shut off and stays off.Maybe test some higher speed 2-Hi-(locked) slides in a wide-open area so you don't get surprised by how it might behave.
09-17-2011, 08:32 PM
#376
pfbz, I've seen your write up on this. You and a lot of people have put a lot of time and effort into this mod. I'm hoping this works as you say it's "stealthy". Hopefully cpolito2 can do some extensive test drives and address some of the possible issues youv'e brought up.
09-18-2011, 12:50 PM
#377
Originally Posted by cpolito2
Yeah I planned on doing a write-up, just need to tweak the relay setup a little bit.
But basically I just took apart the 4x4 **** and trimmed the plastic to where it can pull out in the 2wd position.
Then found a wire in the back of the switch ( need to check the color) that puts out 12v when its pulled out. I used that to trigger a relay that powers the locking differential. I also put a diode in to prevent feeding the tccm 12v when its in 2wd (not sure what the computer would do seeing the signal in 2wd, and didn't want to fry anything)..
But 4x4 locking still works as it did before, and when it tries to disengage bc of the speed limit it still stays locked.(computer will think its unlocked but it will still be locked.)
Cost me about 15$ and looks as stock as possible.
ETA: Heres the wiring diagram I made up
But basically I just took apart the 4x4 **** and trimmed the plastic to where it can pull out in the 2wd position.
Then found a wire in the back of the switch ( need to check the color) that puts out 12v when its pulled out. I used that to trigger a relay that powers the locking differential. I also put a diode in to prevent feeding the tccm 12v when its in 2wd (not sure what the computer would do seeing the signal in 2wd, and didn't want to fry anything)..
But 4x4 locking still works as it did before, and when it tries to disengage bc of the speed limit it still stays locked.(computer will think its unlocked but it will still be locked.)
Cost me about 15$ and looks as stock as possible.
ETA: Heres the wiring diagram I made up
09-18-2011, 02:45 PM
#378
You could work out the details on using the OEM switch + relay/diode/transistor once you verify that diff-locked-without PCM/TCCM knowing it and AdvanceTrac On isn't going to cause insurmountable issues...
If it does, your back to using the Raptor TCCM which presumably keeps the AdvanceTrac Off when over 35mph in 2Hi/4Hi, and then relay/diode/transistor would go away....
09-19-2011, 08:53 AM
#379
F150 Forum
The AA part number will work from what everyone has said. The only issue that we had was the appearance of the switch. Both switches work, they just are a little difference in appearance and design.
If there is anything I can help you guys with as far as distinguishing which part numbers look like and/or anything else, just let me know.
thanks,
Joshua
If there is anything I can help you guys with as far as distinguishing which part numbers look like and/or anything else, just let me know.
thanks,
Joshua
Last edited by tasca_josh; 09-19-2011 at 08:56 AM.
09-19-2011, 09:03 AM
#380
Senior Member
The AA part number will work from what everyone has said. The only issue that we had was the appearance of the switch. Both switches work, they just are a little difference in appearance and design.
If there is anything I can help you guys with as far as distinguishing which part numbers look like and/or anything else, just let me know.
thanks,
Joshua
If there is anything I can help you guys with as far as distinguishing which part numbers look like and/or anything else, just let me know.
thanks,
Joshua