g.spikes

My truck has never had any electrical problems. Today, I opened the door, and the car alarm started going off. I turned it off with the key fob, and went to crank it. It just started clicking, and all the dash lights were off. I hooked up the jumper cables for like 30 minutes, and the dash lit up like it should. I tried cranking it again, and it just kept ticking, and the dash started flickering with each tick. After I unhooked the jumper cables, everything went dead again, but there was a ticking noise up by the fuse box. Any idea what's up, and how I can fix it?

There was no corrosion on my battery, no loose connectors, and the cables had a good connection. And like I said, before today, I've never had any sign of electrical issues.

ElGordoTejano

I had a similar thing happen to me. It turned out to be a shorted out battery for me. Not sure for you, but it was a cheap quick fix for me. Might want to try that first. And it was fine one day and the next morning it was dead. go figure..

BeastofBurden

I have a similar problem (2011 XLT) but I don't think it is the battery. There are 2 thick red cables to the fuse box under the hood - one to the positive battery terminal and the other into the wiring loom. That terminal is drawing 4amps! Any idea where it goes? I don't think it is starter or alternator as there a 2 fuseable links on the positive terminal heading in those directions so I am guessing internal fuse box or engine control. It is a bit too thick for the ignition switch.

https://goo.gl/photos/e99s9kX6MHrfLWpE9 for full photo with offending terminal disconnected.

I will upload something smaller when I have figured out how.

RogueGT

Hmmm, starter interrupt relay is connected to the RAP module (Remote Antitheft Module). If the RAP module was triggered that makes sense why the truck won't start. Since both components are in the same circuit you might start looking for either of these to be at fault.