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DIY With VIDEO -2010 F150 Amplifier Install Part One

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Old 03-12-2011, 12:52 PM
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Cool. So are you saying to tap into the light blue wire at the SBJ with the remote wire? Thank You!
Old 03-12-2011, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by macaboo
Here I've made a short video on how I installed my amplifier behind the seats and running the power and remote wires down one side of the truck. I also show where I grounded the amp.

I am not a professional, just take what you will from the video and it may help you during your installation.

This is just Part One, Its too cold outside so later on I will post the second half when I run the rest of the wires to the headunit.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4lwwUvSHGNc


Great vid, thanks for the tutorial!
Old 03-12-2011, 04:12 PM
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What is the Brown wire on the LOC for? If I remember right I had it hooked to the ground wire in the amp last time I used it. If it is the ground wire then I will use the HU Ground wire this time since the LOC will be located next to the HU. I have been reading about LOC's in different forums and got a little confused about them. Some are saying to ignore the brown wire, some say it is a radio mute wire, some say it is a ground wire, and some say it will help keep the "extra" noise down.

Also, can I run my 4 gauge power wire from battery to back then add a in-line fuse holder with a 8 gauge wire coming out the other end that will hook up to the amp? I don't think I will be able to make the 4 gauge all the way over to the amp.

Last edited by skeeterweeder; 03-13-2011 at 07:29 PM.
Old 03-14-2011, 04:25 PM
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So the question I have is this.......... is it alright to use a in-line fuse block instead of a power distribution block. Look at my diagram and see what I am talking about. I have a fuse already at the battery, but was wanting to use the In-line fuse block since I had one already. I understand the amp has a fuse and all already. It won't hurt the system will it? I just want to finish my install, but want to see if this should work or not. Thank you.
Attached Thumbnails DIY With VIDEO -2010 F150 Amplifier Install Part One-my-amp-installation-wiring-diagram1.jpg  
Old 03-14-2011, 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by skeeterweeder
So the question I have is this.......... is it alright to use a in-line fuse block instead of a power distribution block. Look at my diagram and see what I am talking about. I have a fuse already at the battery, but was wanting to use the In-line fuse block since I had one already. I understand the amp has a fuse and all already. It won't hurt the system will it? I just want to finish my install, but want to see if this should work or not. Thank you.
As long as there is a fuse near the battery appropriately rated for the wire, you're golden. For 6 gauge wire, 80A is the max fuse you should use. http://www.bcae1.com/wire.htm

The fuse near the amp isn't required, but doesn't hurt. I would skip the fuse near the amp and just put a 80A fuse near the battery and call it a day.
Old 03-14-2011, 04:57 PM
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I don't have enough 6 gauge wire to make it to the amp. I have a in-line fuse block though and some 4 gauge wire I was going to use coming out the other end to the amp. Does that sound Kosher?
Old 03-15-2011, 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by skeeterweeder
I don't have enough 6 gauge wire to make it to the amp. I have a in-line fuse block though and some 4 gauge wire I was going to use coming out the other end to the amp. Does that sound Kosher?
Yeah, that's fine. As long as the fuse from the battery to the 6 gauge is 80A or lower (really, based on the fuses that come with the amp you specified, anywhere from 50A to 80A). The fuse from the 6 gauge to the 4 gauge could be anything (well, 50A or above) but would be most useful if the fuse rating is equal to or lower than the fuse at the battery.
Old 03-15-2011, 09:42 AM
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Awesome. I should be getting the Metra Harness today! I am excited to see if all this wiring has paid off. I am just a little nervous on taking the head unit out. It seems complicated. I am also a little weary of how to hook the harness up the radio and the factory wires.......... it should just hook right into the HU right? I am not changing the HU, but the harness should just be used so I dont have to tap into factory wires but use the Metra Harness rear speaker wires for my LOC. You wouldn't recommend me running the Front and rear door speakers to amp also would you? That was just something I was thinking of last night. Not sure if that would be smart though. Thanks as always.
Old 03-15-2011, 09:27 PM
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Well I received my Metra BT-5520 Harness in the mail today and got right to work. I was as excited as a little kid the night before Christmas all week waiting for this harness. I planned how I was going to attack the install throughout the whole week (looked up how to take the HU out and found this very helpful piece on the internet http://documents.victorytechnologies...duct/15786.pdf ). Well I got the HU easily and without a scratch and guess what happened next............. the damn harness wasn't the right one. I have the single disk radio without the factory amp or anything, and while I was perusing the internet a lot of people said that the Metra BT 5520 was the harness to use. I wanted to keep my steering wheel controls and sync. Well, I took the radio out hooked my LOC to the new harness and then "tried" to connect the harness to the back of the radio. No luck. I am hoping some one will let me know what harness they ordered (that has the same factory radio) that allowed them to keep SYNC and the steering wheel controls. I am thinking I might have to tap into the factory wires for the rear speakers before they go in the doors and then run them to the LOC. That would be the last resort for me though. I dont want to have to do that. Thanks for rading my rant, and please HELP me! That is what the back of my radio looks like. The BT 5520 small connector doesn't mate with the small connector on that. Any tips or advice?
Old 03-16-2011, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by skeeterweeder
Well I received my Metra BT-5520 Harness in the mail today and got right to work. I was as excited as a little kid the night before Christmas all week waiting for this harness. I planned how I was going to attack the install throughout the whole week (looked up how to take the HU out and found this very helpful piece on the internet http://documents.victorytechnologies...duct/15786.pdf ). Well I got the HU easily and without a scratch and guess what happened next............. the damn harness wasn't the right one. I have the single disk radio without the factory amp or anything, and while I was perusing the internet a lot of people said that the Metra BT 5520 was the harness to use. I wanted to keep my steering wheel controls and sync. Well, I took the radio out hooked my LOC to the new harness and then "tried" to connect the harness to the back of the radio. No luck. I am hoping some one will let me know what harness they ordered (that has the same factory radio) that allowed them to keep SYNC and the steering wheel controls. I am thinking I might have to tap into the factory wires for the rear speakers before they go in the doors and then run them to the LOC. That would be the last resort for me though. I dont want to have to do that. Thanks for rading my rant, and please HELP me! That is what the back of my radio looks like. The BT 5520 small connector doesn't mate with the small connector on that. Any tips or advice?

You leave the small connector alone. See attached annotated image.
Attached Thumbnails DIY With VIDEO -2010 F150 Amplifier Install Part One-radio-annotated.jpg  


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