2013 Screw w/ NAV 2 10's under seat etc
10-15-2015, 09:06 AM
#1
2013 Screw w/ NAV 2 10's under seat etc
Hello all! Now that i've finished my install i'd like to leave my details for anyone searching. I know I looked for months trying to figure out what others had and what to add so i'll leave the details of what's worked out incredible for me.
I ended up adding 3-way kenwood 6x8's in all 4 the doors (1 for 1 swap with whats there. I swapped them myself VERY EASY). Left the factory connection.
Left the factory tweeters connected as they were.
Added 2 amps that I had in possession already: An Orion HCCA D2400 for sub connection. An Image Dynamics Q450.4 for the doors. Each of the amps were installed to the back wall behind the rear seat. One on each side. Factory Sub removed.
Signal from the head unit was received with a simple Line out converter connected to the factory amp OUTPUT cables under the center console between the 2 front seats. The installer also intercepted the factory speaker cables at the same location (OUTPUT Cables @ fact amp) with the feeds from the 4Chann amplifier to each of the 4 doors.
The subs I decided on after trying to figure out how to cram as much as possible under the seat were (2) JL 10TW3-D4's. I've always had full size 12"subs and these were my first 10's AND shallow mount so I was skeptical. JL has a schematic for a ported box for these subs that I believe is new this year.
http://www.jlaudio.com/10tw3-d4-car-...-drivers-92184
The installation shop had never been able to fit a ported box for 2 of these JL 10's under the rear seat so they had no idea how far the box would stick out. I gave them the go ahead and man am I glad I did. The boxes stick out a few inches in front of the seat but DO NOT affect the rear seating AT ALL! I had the installers build 2 separate boxes, 1 for each of the 10's in case I wanted to remove one for space. GREAT IDEA!!!!! These subs crank.....if you've had a great system before (They make your nose itch!!!) you'll know what I mean. See box pictures. They did take a few weeks to break in. The diff is dramatic.
All factory settings remain the same. Factory tweeters aren't very effective becuase you're overall output on the volume **** goes down due to the amplification. We all know that MAX volume in these trucks is weak.
The only thing I notice with the install that wasn't factory is when you turn your truck off and BEFORE you open your door the only audio that plays is from the tweeters and front center because they're not amp'd.
I ended up adding 3-way kenwood 6x8's in all 4 the doors (1 for 1 swap with whats there. I swapped them myself VERY EASY). Left the factory connection.
Left the factory tweeters connected as they were.
Added 2 amps that I had in possession already: An Orion HCCA D2400 for sub connection. An Image Dynamics Q450.4 for the doors. Each of the amps were installed to the back wall behind the rear seat. One on each side. Factory Sub removed.
Signal from the head unit was received with a simple Line out converter connected to the factory amp OUTPUT cables under the center console between the 2 front seats. The installer also intercepted the factory speaker cables at the same location (OUTPUT Cables @ fact amp) with the feeds from the 4Chann amplifier to each of the 4 doors.
The subs I decided on after trying to figure out how to cram as much as possible under the seat were (2) JL 10TW3-D4's. I've always had full size 12"subs and these were my first 10's AND shallow mount so I was skeptical. JL has a schematic for a ported box for these subs that I believe is new this year.
http://www.jlaudio.com/10tw3-d4-car-...-drivers-92184
The installation shop had never been able to fit a ported box for 2 of these JL 10's under the rear seat so they had no idea how far the box would stick out. I gave them the go ahead and man am I glad I did. The boxes stick out a few inches in front of the seat but DO NOT affect the rear seating AT ALL! I had the installers build 2 separate boxes, 1 for each of the 10's in case I wanted to remove one for space. GREAT IDEA!!!!! These subs crank.....if you've had a great system before (They make your nose itch!!!) you'll know what I mean. See box pictures. They did take a few weeks to break in. The diff is dramatic.
All factory settings remain the same. Factory tweeters aren't very effective becuase you're overall output on the volume **** goes down due to the amplification. We all know that MAX volume in these trucks is weak.
The only thing I notice with the install that wasn't factory is when you turn your truck off and BEFORE you open your door the only audio that plays is from the tweeters and front center because they're not amp'd.
The following users liked this post:
freddyttt (10-15-2015)
The following users liked this post:
jjcoll00 (10-15-2015)
10-15-2015, 12:36 PM
#4
Thanks looks great-