2013 SCREW Amp, LOC, Wiring
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
2013 SCREW Amp, LOC, Wiring
I have a 2013 Screw and I am putting in an amp and sub connected via a LOC from stock head unit.
1) My LOC has 2 positive and 2 negative. Since it is going to a mono sub do I need to tap into both back speakers or just 1? Do I need to connect both RCAs?
2) Does anyone know which wires go the rear speakers?
3) What is the easiest place for the remote turn on lead? Fuse box near passenger door?
1) My LOC has 2 positive and 2 negative. Since it is going to a mono sub do I need to tap into both back speakers or just 1? Do I need to connect both RCAs?
2) Does anyone know which wires go the rear speakers?
3) What is the easiest place for the remote turn on lead? Fuse box near passenger door?
#2
Senior Member
I can answer part of this. Can't remember what color speaker wires are. For the LOC, you only need to tap into one of the speaker wires and only run one RCA to amp. Doing both won't hurt but I don't think you would notice much difference between both configs. It does sound good. My only issue is at lower volumes you need to turn up the bass boost and then when you raise the volume you have to back it down. I guess that's why the **** is good to have.
#5
Senior Member
I have a 2013 Screw and I am putting in an amp and sub connected via a LOC from stock head unit.
1) My LOC has 2 positive and 2 negative. Since it is going to a mono sub do I need to tap into both back speakers or just 1? Do I need to connect both RCAs?
2) Does anyone know which wires go the rear speakers?
3) What is the easiest place for the remote turn on lead? Fuse box near passenger door?
1) My LOC has 2 positive and 2 negative. Since it is going to a mono sub do I need to tap into both back speakers or just 1? Do I need to connect both RCAs?
2) Does anyone know which wires go the rear speakers?
3) What is the easiest place for the remote turn on lead? Fuse box near passenger door?
2 Here's a link to the wiring diagrams, it says '12 but it's the same for the '13s.
https://www.f150forum.com/f38/2011-2...t-sync-196677/
(all hail dallas150 )
3. I just added an "add a curcuit" to the fuse for the radio (sorry don't remember which one) and then I ran it down parrellel with the amp power line under the door trim. Otherwise you can look at the above wiring diagram and find the ACC lead and tap into that if you decide to pull apart the dash.
Hoped this helped you at least a little.
#6
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I plan on keeping the stick HU.
Could I just hook both positives and both negatives on the LOC together and then splice just the passenger side speaker? Then hook up both RCAs.
Could I just hook both positives and both negatives on the LOC together and then splice just the passenger side speaker? Then hook up both RCAs.
#7
Senior Member
I do know that if you tweek with the fade and balance it will effect your sub if you only tap off of one line.
I'd call or write the company you bought it from if you can't find a clear answer.
Sorry.
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#8
Senior Member
Just hook up one. Its much easier and sounds great. I tapped into the left rear speakers on driver side and ran power and remote wires on passenger side. This will help avoid signal issues.
I also used the add-a-fuse and put it in the Trailer Brake Controller slot.
I also used the add-a-fuse and put it in the Trailer Brake Controller slot.
#9
Hook up both sides it will sound better.....just cuz its a mono amp and only 1 sub doesnt mean its ok to bridge both inputs together on the loc.....music is recorded with balance meaning the sound still sweeps from side to side so if u bridget the inputs of the loc and only tag 1 side u will lose sound....btw the audio wiring is as follows...
12v-gry/red
gnd-blk/blu
acc-ppl/grn (in the ignition harness at the column)
F/l- +/-......wht-wht/grn
f/r- +/-......wht/ppl-wht/org
l/r- +/-.......wht/grn-brn/yel
r/r- +/-.......brn/wht-brn/blu
12v-gry/red
gnd-blk/blu
acc-ppl/grn (in the ignition harness at the column)
F/l- +/-......wht-wht/grn
f/r- +/-......wht/ppl-wht/org
l/r- +/-.......wht/grn-brn/yel
r/r- +/-.......brn/wht-brn/blu
Last edited by mobile_audio_concept; 11-16-2013 at 11:36 PM.
#10
Boost :)
On the 2013, Fuse #38 is a switched ignition that will stay on until you open the door. Some of those switched signals will turn off with the key instead of waiting for the stereo to actually turn off. I spent a fair amount of time testing fuses Saturday and #38 was the best one.
It is a 10amp fuse and the add-a-circuit fits in there perfect.
It is a 10amp fuse and the add-a-circuit fits in there perfect.
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mpossjr (11-19-2013)