Battery Charge line on trailer wiring- no relay, no fuse, no power!!
08-10-2012, 09:11 AM
#11
Senior Member
Look in owners manual for fuse number and relay number location, they may have changed them between truck years. You need both the relay and the fuse in the right spot, verify fuse is not blown. I've never had a relay go out, but mine were not installed from the factory, I plugged them into the location indicated in the owners manual and now it works great
08-10-2012, 11:51 AM
#12
It might take me a little to post some pics from work but I found my fix to this awhile back! The fuses are correct and there is no problem if you have them in... the problem *I* had was in the wiring loom itself! Thanks Ford! lol ...
So ... if you look on the driver-side of the vehicle, on top of the fender you will find a big power connector that locks into another one that spits off a few directions there. On the one from the front of the vehicle you will see a nice bright orange wire on the top of the block, closer to the engine ... guess what that is! That's right, 12v lead ... now if you look at the rear-facing side of the other connection it's missing! But ... at the back at the vehicle you'll see all the reverse. Facing forward you see the other end of the loom from the engine bay, connected to the block that goes to the bumper/tow hitch ... guess what's on the other side? The same happy wire! So it looks like Ford forgot to run the wires for us between the two connection points . . . . . that's an easy fix for me. A couple of those blue splice clamps, some dielectric grease, and shrink-tubing I was able to run my own wire for 12v power from the front harness to the back. Same guage wire I got from Lowe's for something like 18 cents a foot I think? Not sure but it's cheap fix. I wrapped the wire around the looms exact path and taped or shrink-tubed it where it may rub more than normal and just did the same splice in the rear of the vehicle. Now I have a 12v lead.
Side note... this may mean you can't have trailer brakes or reverse lights without additional wiring as that's missing too ... if it's not in that indeterminate loom, I'm assuming you can't plug-n-play the factory controller. Luckily for me, the only reason I want 12v power is for remote trailer brakes/charging.
Hope this helps, I'll try and get pix up later today but I can't promise them that fast!
So ... if you look on the driver-side of the vehicle, on top of the fender you will find a big power connector that locks into another one that spits off a few directions there. On the one from the front of the vehicle you will see a nice bright orange wire on the top of the block, closer to the engine ... guess what that is! That's right, 12v lead ... now if you look at the rear-facing side of the other connection it's missing! But ... at the back at the vehicle you'll see all the reverse. Facing forward you see the other end of the loom from the engine bay, connected to the block that goes to the bumper/tow hitch ... guess what's on the other side? The same happy wire! So it looks like Ford forgot to run the wires for us between the two connection points . . . . . that's an easy fix for me. A couple of those blue splice clamps, some dielectric grease, and shrink-tubing I was able to run my own wire for 12v power from the front harness to the back. Same guage wire I got from Lowe's for something like 18 cents a foot I think? Not sure but it's cheap fix. I wrapped the wire around the looms exact path and taped or shrink-tubed it where it may rub more than normal and just did the same splice in the rear of the vehicle. Now I have a 12v lead.
Side note... this may mean you can't have trailer brakes or reverse lights without additional wiring as that's missing too ... if it's not in that indeterminate loom, I'm assuming you can't plug-n-play the factory controller. Luckily for me, the only reason I want 12v power is for remote trailer brakes/charging.
Hope this helps, I'll try and get pix up later today but I can't promise them that fast!
08-10-2012, 12:00 PM
#13
It might take me a little to post some pics from work but I found my fix to this awhile back! The fuses are correct and there is no problem if you have them in... the problem *I* had was in the wiring loom itself! Thanks Ford! lol ...
So ... if you look on the driver-side of the vehicle, on top of the fender you will find a big power connector that locks into another one that spits off a few directions there. On the one from the front of the vehicle you will see a nice bright orange wire on the top of the block, closer to the engine ... guess what that is! That's right, 12v lead ... now if you look at the rear-facing side of the other connection it's missing! But ... at the back at the vehicle you'll see all the reverse. Facing forward you see the other end of the loom from the engine bay, connected to the block that goes to the bumper/tow hitch ... guess what's on the other side? The same happy wire! So it looks like Ford forgot to run the wires for us between the two connection points . . . . . that's an easy fix for me. A couple of those blue splice clamps, some dielectric grease, and shrink-tubing I was able to run my own wire for 12v power from the front harness to the back. Same guage wire I got from Lowe's for something like 18 cents a foot I think? Not sure but it's cheap fix. I wrapped the wire around the looms exact path and taped or shrink-tubed it where it may rub more than normal and just did the same splice in the rear of the vehicle. Now I have a 12v lead.
Side note... this may mean you can't have trailer brakes or reverse lights without additional wiring as that's missing too ... if it's not in that indeterminate loom, I'm assuming you can't plug-n-play the factory controller. Luckily for me, the only reason I want 12v power is for remote trailer brakes/charging.
Hope this helps, I'll try and get pix up later today but I can't promise them that fast!
So ... if you look on the driver-side of the vehicle, on top of the fender you will find a big power connector that locks into another one that spits off a few directions there. On the one from the front of the vehicle you will see a nice bright orange wire on the top of the block, closer to the engine ... guess what that is! That's right, 12v lead ... now if you look at the rear-facing side of the other connection it's missing! But ... at the back at the vehicle you'll see all the reverse. Facing forward you see the other end of the loom from the engine bay, connected to the block that goes to the bumper/tow hitch ... guess what's on the other side? The same happy wire! So it looks like Ford forgot to run the wires for us between the two connection points . . . . . that's an easy fix for me. A couple of those blue splice clamps, some dielectric grease, and shrink-tubing I was able to run my own wire for 12v power from the front harness to the back. Same guage wire I got from Lowe's for something like 18 cents a foot I think? Not sure but it's cheap fix. I wrapped the wire around the looms exact path and taped or shrink-tubed it where it may rub more than normal and just did the same splice in the rear of the vehicle. Now I have a 12v lead.
Side note... this may mean you can't have trailer brakes or reverse lights without additional wiring as that's missing too ... if it's not in that indeterminate loom, I'm assuming you can't plug-n-play the factory controller. Luckily for me, the only reason I want 12v power is for remote trailer brakes/charging.
Hope this helps, I'll try and get pix up later today but I can't promise them that fast!
08-10-2012, 01:07 PM
#14
I have an 04 SCREW and although the fuse for the rear charge line was in, the relay was not. I'm using it for power to a backup camera. Relay cost my $16 almost as much as I spent on the camera.
10-01-2012, 10:26 AM
#15
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No 12V power at 7 Pin Trailer Plug
I had the same problem trying to hook up a 12V pump to the 7 Pin Trailer Plug, no voltage in my 2012 F-150 4X4 plug.
In my glove box was kit number: AL3T-15A416-AA
In the envelope were a relay and a 30 amp fuse.
If you open the hood of the truck, the power panel is immediately front and center, open the panel.
Insert the relay in slot No. 9 "TT Battery charger relay" and the fuse in slot No.21 "TT Battery charge relay power"
In my 2012 Owner's Guide, the fuse locations are on page 333.
Turn your ignition ON and you should have power in your 7 pin connector, slot #4.
In my glove box was kit number: AL3T-15A416-AA
In the envelope were a relay and a 30 amp fuse.
If you open the hood of the truck, the power panel is immediately front and center, open the panel.
Insert the relay in slot No. 9 "TT Battery charger relay" and the fuse in slot No.21 "TT Battery charge relay power"
In my 2012 Owner's Guide, the fuse locations are on page 333.
Turn your ignition ON and you should have power in your 7 pin connector, slot #4.
11-10-2012, 10:39 PM
#16
I’m a doofus. Since my trailer hookup seemed fully functional, I don’t know what I did with this. I’ll keep digging around, but does anybody have part numbers and/or links so I can buy these two gizmos again from a local auto parts store?
09-08-2015, 09:12 PM
#17
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I have put in fuse & relay into slot #9 & #21 and I still have no power at my trailer plug on either the 7 pin pr the 4 pin side... wires all look good and secure and not rubbed as best and as far as i can see... any suggestions ?
09-10-2015, 06:06 AM
#19
Senior Member
Suggestion. As the system is wired from the factory with the fuse and relay in place you will only have 12v power to the trailer with the ignition on. Solution remove relay and replace with a short jumper wire for power all the time. Caution be sure to turn off any lights or other accs. in the trailer when not in use or you will drain the battery. store the relay or the jumper in one of the empty sockets in the power dist box. One more thing this circuit has nothing to do with the trailer brakes.
05-29-2016, 03:53 PM
#20
Suggestion. As the system is wired from the factory with the fuse and relay in place you will only have 12v power to the trailer with the ignition on. Solution remove relay and replace with a short jumper wire for power all the time. Caution be sure to turn off any lights or other accs. in the trailer when not in use or you will drain the battery. store the relay or the jumper in one of the empty sockets in the power dist box. One more thing this circuit has nothing to do with the trailer brakes.