tsigwing

looks like transporting that thing to the recycling center could be fun

Two23Three

iTrader: (1)

Did my 1st oil change today @ 1155 miles. Very easy to do like everyone says. And just like others have mentioned, that drain plug, well...wow, just wow. I've owned a number of vehicle brands, but I've never seen anything remotely like it. It's not exactly tight either when screwed back in. Cranked it up and no leaks. I will say though that the removal of it is the easiest I've done on any car ever. Well, nothing can replace a Fumoto valve however when it comes to the actual draining. All in all, very satisfied with the simplicity of the whole process.

D_D_in_KY

I use one of those light gray "bus Tubs" purchased from Sam's Club for my oil changes. It's about 22" X 14" X 5" deep and works great. It is big enough to catch the initial surge of fluid when the drain plug is removed without allowing the oil to "splash out". Just in case I have an over-sized layer of "Ram Board" under the tub for placement and to catch any drips or splashes. The rectangular shape works better for me. Emptying the pan is easy enough using a good funnel. I use the gallon jugs my Amsoil comes in to transport to the recycle center. I had one of those round drain pans but found it too much of a pain, black pan with black oil and the spout that obscured my vision.

matt2636

does anyone know if the o-ring on the drain plug has to be replaced at anytime?

<-KJP->

The service manual does not require changing of the O-ring on the oil drain plug, but I am sure it would be a good idea to change that O-ring after 2-3 years.

gregsf150stx

Already discussed.

silfgenson

Hi, kinda silly question but does the oil filter cap turn CCW direction or CW? I was unable to remove it. The 27mm socket keeps slipping rather than unscrewing the rubber end. I started doubting the dealer changed it last time. Their invoice shows they did 5w-20, therefore I decided to change mine myself but could not open the cap at all. Thinking maybe the dealer did not change the filter either?
Anyway, I did not change the filter, but changed the oil. How long can I drive like this? 3K miles? I will go to the dealer to ask if they can change the filter only with the one I take to them. Will see what they say. I could not get that damn thing turning at all.

<-KJP->

CCW to loosen. (torques spec 17-18 Ft-lbs when you tighten back up)
5w30 is the correct oil.

silfgenson

Thank you very much for the quick response. It just does not want to turn. So will the old filter contaminate the new one? Should I make full oil change immediately or would the filter be ok once figure out to open it?

Curmudgeon

My 1 1/16 socket worked just fine turning the canister oil filter housing ccw to remove for the first oil change. After changing canister filters for many decades on GM engines, Ford diesel engines, and my 2.7TT (the 2.7 filter is a smaller clone of the diesel canister filter), a strong hand tightening or a light tug with the socket will be adequate if you don't have a torque wrench. The double O-rings are very effective at sealing the canister housing whether the canister is upright as on the 2.7 or screwing up into the oil pan as on some Oldsmobile engines of earlier eras.


While not a preferable scenario, leaving the old filter on will cause a discoloration of new oil, but no crisis will ensue. Personally, I would change both as soon as possible, but it's more a matter of aesthetics to me. I've done it once in my life in exactly a situation as you describe. The canister body (and nut) is a composite material-not rubber-hopefully it was not damaged.


Did you check the oil level after the OC and engine start? The oil filter contains about 12 ounces of oil (I prefill the new filter). Since you left the old filter on, hopefully you accounted for the old oil remaining in the filter when you installed the new oil.