tanman90

Hey guys. Sadly I never could get my truck started, nor could the shop. They said they checked over everything they could think of and it all was good, but low compression. They said it would be very expensive for them to rebuild the engine for me, so they recommended buying a long block or taking it to a machine shop. They recommended a good local machine shop, it turned out to be right down the road from my house I didn't even know it was there. I went and talked to him and he quoted me $2000 for a rebuild. I have a few questions.
-does that sound like a reasonable price?
-should I have it rebuilt or just buy a reman long block?
-would it be much more expensive to make it a 347 stroker?
-what is involved in making it into a 347 stroker?

Edit: just did some research...nevermind about the 347...lol I was apparently dreaming. A stock rebuild would be good with me.

dr_bowtie

I'm still saying you missed something. if it ran fine before you tore it apart and it started easily it should run after. I would tear it down again being you're gonna have to anyways....

was the compression low on both sides or just one?

tanman90

It was low on both sides. I didn't tighten the drivers side rocker arms and still had very low compression...I was confused on that. The shop checked the compression and said all cylinders were low.

tanman90

Are there any relatively cheap go fast parts I should put on my engine while rebuilding it? I was thinking of having the heads ported and polished. Maybe a cam, but I know options are limited with speed density engines.

memoniz

I'm with dr bowtie, don't understand why the loss of compression after you did some work unless something went wrong or you drilled your pistons or something. If it was my choice, I would rebuild just to find out what happened.

tanman90

Yeah my plan is to save up the money pull the motor and take it to the machine shop. I need advice though: should I pull out the engine with the transmission or without? I'd like to pull both so I can power wash my greasy tranny. Also by standing here looking at it...it doesn't seem that hard to pull an engine...am I right? Lol

Chris_1

iTrader: (1)

Lots of bolts plenty of sweat and a couple of bruised knuckles - piece of cake. Pull the tranny first, way easier to pull the motor and get that massive hunk of iron out of the hole it's in.
That said I never saw your original posts but the bottom line is that engines want to run. Spark, timing and fuel. Even a low compression motor will start if it has those. Go back to the basics.
Also, when they did the compression test, did they do a wet test as well to see if the problem is top end or bottom end ? Did they do a cooling system pressure test ? Did they do a fuel pressure test ? Just for starters.
You could be missing something very simple and $2000 is a lot of money. But it is a fair price for a quality rebuild. Just make sure you actually need it first.
If you can't get anywhere at all, try pulling the heads before you pull the motor out. That may tell you right there if you need to pull the whole engine or not.

tanman90

Yep I plan to pull the heads off after I get the engine out just to have a look. Also those compression tests were dry results.

Someone on here told me that my compression readings were too low for the engine to run ( highest reading of 50 or so psi)

tanman90

Hey guys here's a pic of the engine right now, its just about ready to pull out. Only thing left is the engine to transmission bolts, torque converter bolts, and removing the starter.


I have a couple questions:
-when you delete the EGR, I know it gives you a CEL but does it affect engine operation/performance in a negative way? I'm thinking of deleting it.
-is the engine wiring harness bolted to the valve cover studs? My harness has some studs and nuts bolted to it but they weren't bolted to the engine.

Just call me Sean

iTrader: (1)

EGR helps gas mileage. Keep it, delete the smog pump.