gt40 heads...
#61
Senior Member
Header company supply crap gaskets I used o.e. style when I installed my hookers. Haven't driven my truck enough to find leaks, but my truck won't idle either.
#63
Senior Member
I switched to a headman aluminum gasket but the bolts keep working loose. I just switched to a set of bolts with locking washers. See how that goes I guess.
#64
Uzi does it!
Thread Starter
#67
Oooo a Custom Title.
#68
Uzi does it!
Thread Starter
#69
Senior Member
All depends on the condition of the parts. Gotta measure things. Block should be good. If not dump the whole thing and get a used one or a crate or a kit. Mic the crank. It should be fine. Might want to have it turned at the local shop. Rods and pistons need inspecting. No cracks or bends they are good. Check for for tueness and clearance at the wrist pins and bearing ends. Might want those machined and order properly sized bearings. Bearing caps are probably fine and should be honed along with the cam journals if you are having the block machined. If they are close enough to spec just clean them up. Replace all freeze plugs. Basically the safe way is to take it to a machine shop and have them prep it. The budget way is measure everything and polish bearing surfaces with emery cloth if they are good. Hone the cylinders replace the bearings and plugs. Whichever way you go you will need freeze plugs bearings and gaskets. 300 HP is not a racing engine so there's no need to get crazy with forged parts and blueprinting. A new water pump and oil pump is cheap insurance. If your doing all the work to tear it down make sure you measure and examine things well before you decide to use them. Find help if you don't know how.
#70
Uzi does it!
Thread Starter
All depends on the condition of the parts. Gotta measure things. Block should be good. If not dump the whole thing and get a used one or a crate or a kit. Mic the crank. It should be fine. Might want to have it turned at the local shop. Rods and pistons need inspecting. No cracks or bends they are good. Check for for tueness and clearance at the wrist pins and bearing ends. Might want those machined and order properly sized bearings. Bearing caps are probably fine and should be honed along with the cam journals if you are having the block machined. If they are close enough to spec just clean them up. Replace all freeze plugs. Basically the safe way is to take it to a machine shop and have them prep it. The budget way is measure everything and polish bearing surfaces with emery cloth if they are good. Hone the cylinders replace the bearings and plugs. Whichever way you go you will need freeze plugs bearings and gaskets. 300 HP is not a racing engine so there's no need to get crazy with forged parts and blueprinting. A new water pump and oil pump is cheap insurance. If your doing all the work to tear it down make sure you measure and examine things well before you decide to use them. Find help if you don't know how.
1) what headers? I might just do the pacesetters unless someone else has a better idea (don't want to break the bank)
2) what cats should I put in ( right now its true dualed with 2” inside diameter pipe with flowmaster mufflers)