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Old 01-25-2014, 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by LOCO LAPTOP

I didn't use their gasket that was provided so that might be why it doesn't leak. But I used their bolts with some ARP Ultra Torque.
X2
Header company supply crap gaskets I used o.e. style when I installed my hookers. Haven't driven my truck enough to find leaks, but my truck won't idle either.
Old 01-25-2014, 09:44 AM
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are ya wanting 300 to the tire or to crank? crank gt40 heads will be fine.
300 to tire unless turbos or supercharged gt40 heads won't happen.
Old 01-25-2014, 02:18 PM
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I switched to a headman aluminum gasket but the bolts keep working loose. I just switched to a set of bolts with locking washers. See how that goes I guess.
Old 01-25-2014, 03:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Flareside302
are ya wanting 300 to the tire or to crank? crank gt40 heads will be fine.
300 to tire unless turbos or supercharged gt40 heads won't happen.
At the wheels
Old 01-25-2014, 04:18 PM
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you'll need aluminum heads.. TF 170s are my suggestion.. flow equal to a AFR 185. all due to port design and angles.
Old 01-25-2014, 08:51 PM
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Another thing: my block has around 160,000 mile's on it. Do you think it will be able to handle 300+ HP?
Old 01-25-2014, 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Klinux13
Another thing: my block has around 160,000 mile's on it. Do you think it will be able to handle 300+ HP?
I would rebuild it. Not worth dumping the money on upgraded parts on a stock 160k miles bottom end IMO.
Old 01-26-2014, 06:08 AM
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Originally Posted by LOCO LAPTOP

I would rebuild it. Not worth dumping the money on upgraded parts on a stock 160k miles bottom end IMO.
If you were to rebuild it, what would you replace?
Old 01-27-2014, 02:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Klinux13

If you were to rebuild it, what would you replace?
All depends on the condition of the parts. Gotta measure things. Block should be good. If not dump the whole thing and get a used one or a crate or a kit. Mic the crank. It should be fine. Might want to have it turned at the local shop. Rods and pistons need inspecting. No cracks or bends they are good. Check for for tueness and clearance at the wrist pins and bearing ends. Might want those machined and order properly sized bearings. Bearing caps are probably fine and should be honed along with the cam journals if you are having the block machined. If they are close enough to spec just clean them up. Replace all freeze plugs. Basically the safe way is to take it to a machine shop and have them prep it. The budget way is measure everything and polish bearing surfaces with emery cloth if they are good. Hone the cylinders replace the bearings and plugs. Whichever way you go you will need freeze plugs bearings and gaskets. 300 HP is not a racing engine so there's no need to get crazy with forged parts and blueprinting. A new water pump and oil pump is cheap insurance. If your doing all the work to tear it down make sure you measure and examine things well before you decide to use them. Find help if you don't know how.
Old 01-28-2014, 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Warlockk

All depends on the condition of the parts. Gotta measure things. Block should be good. If not dump the whole thing and get a used one or a crate or a kit. Mic the crank. It should be fine. Might want to have it turned at the local shop. Rods and pistons need inspecting. No cracks or bends they are good. Check for for tueness and clearance at the wrist pins and bearing ends. Might want those machined and order properly sized bearings. Bearing caps are probably fine and should be honed along with the cam journals if you are having the block machined. If they are close enough to spec just clean them up. Replace all freeze plugs. Basically the safe way is to take it to a machine shop and have them prep it. The budget way is measure everything and polish bearing surfaces with emery cloth if they are good. Hone the cylinders replace the bearings and plugs. Whichever way you go you will need freeze plugs bearings and gaskets. 300 HP is not a racing engine so there's no need to get crazy with forged parts and blueprinting. A new water pump and oil pump is cheap insurance. If your doing all the work to tear it down make sure you measure and examine things well before you decide to use them. Find help if you don't know how.
Thanks. I'll keep doing my research. For now I'm just gonna do lt headers and cats (so I can pass inspection this year) so...

1) what headers? I might just do the pacesetters unless someone else has a better idea (don't want to break the bank)

2) what cats should I put in ( right now its true dualed with 2” inside diameter pipe with flowmaster mufflers)


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