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I looked at a 94 5.8 4x4 E4OD today for a friend of my son. The truck will not start and the fuel pumps run constantly when the key is turned on. Checked to see if there was any fuel pressure at the fuel rail and there is. After googling, I found several posts on here and other sites that all say the ecm is bad. Would everyone agree? I've checked for codes, but the CEL seems to indicate only that the EGR is not opening. The EGR code has been there since he got the truck four or five months ago, so I don't think that is keeping the truck from starting.
I'm hoping to help this kid get an ECM from the salvage yard and I need to know..............
1. Do I need the exact ECM - Ie. F4TF12A650PA, F4TZ12A650PA, F4TZ12A650PB
2. Does it matter if this is out of a 5.0 or do I have to find one with the 5.8 and does it have to be out of a 4x4?
This is my first time messing with the ECM out of an F150. Any help is much appreciated.
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'95 SWB 300 I6, M5OD, 273 gears, 235/75r15's
'94 XCAB 5.0, E4OD, 355 gears, 235/75r15's
"Gentlemen, we can rebuild them. We have the technology. We have the capability to build the world's first unstoppable truck. The F-150 will be that truck. Better than it was before. Better, stronger, faster."
Yes it needs to be a 5.8. No it doesn't have to be four wheel drive. Accoding to my diagrams you can use '92-'95. Most will say use the same calibration number, but I don't think it matters as it controls the exact same engine.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Early Cuyler
Fights begin, fingerprints are took, days is lost, bail is made, court dates are ignored, cycle is repeated.
Okay. That's going tp be a hard find compared to a 5.0 here at our local salvage yards, but I'll give it a search. Thanks Sean
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'95 SWB 300 I6, M5OD, 273 gears, 235/75r15's
'94 XCAB 5.0, E4OD, 355 gears, 235/75r15's
"Gentlemen, we can rebuild them. We have the technology. We have the capability to build the world's first unstoppable truck. The F-150 will be that truck. Better than it was before. Better, stronger, faster."
Okay. That's going tp be a hard find compared to a 5.0 here at our local salvage yards, but I'll give it a search. Thanks Sean
Car-Part.com
Just get the ID code for the computer you need, and search for it on that website. Then call any of the probably hundred salvage yards around the states that are gonna have that ECM, and they can UPS it to you.
I sell parts at a salvage yard, and I ship all over the US everyday. If you want, I can try and find you one Monday if you give me the ID code.
I just had to buy one for my truck, I live in Missouri, and I ordered one in from Colorado, haha.
I'll try to contact the owner today. I'm on a 72 hour shift out of town and won' t be home until Monday.
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'95 SWB 300 I6, M5OD, 273 gears, 235/75r15's
'94 XCAB 5.0, E4OD, 355 gears, 235/75r15's
"Gentlemen, we can rebuild them. We have the technology. We have the capability to build the world's first unstoppable truck. The F-150 will be that truck. Better than it was before. Better, stronger, faster."
Don't buy a erg until you check out the other things that could be wrong. Specifically the crank shaft sensor and the cam shaft sensor. If you have an old timing light, hook it up to one of the plug wires and have someone turn over the engine while you watch for spark hitting the light. If you are not getting spark, check the sensors. An unscientific way I check these is to look for obvious problems like a lot of dirt and oil at the connections. Fix the bad connections and look for spark again. When working on this remember that the computer in your truck gets reads from the various sensors (crank, cam shaft, speed sensor, fuel pump, erg, and a few others and processes the data to give you fuel and spark as needed to run your engine. If it is not getting the data, your engine does not work.
To check your computer, open it up and look to see if it is burnt or damaged. If the circuit boards are OK and look normal, it is most likely OK.
There are a lot of ways to check the sensors in accordance with the Ford technical manual but this requires tools and know how that cost a lot of money. New sensors cost about $25 each and can be replaced DIY for less money than the cost of the test. As I stated previously, look for obvious problems or damage first before you change a lot of parts.
Also, bad grounds can cause problems. check for these at the firewall from the battery looking for a loose wire or corrosion.
Fuel pump runs constantly with no start
Linear Mode
