Changing a clutch vs changing a head, which is harder?
03-08-2008, 02:15 PM
#1
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Changing a clutch vs changing a head, which is harder?
I'm not a mechanic, but a few months ago when my head went out, I decided to change it myself, (I mean, I may not be a mechanic but I am male...). Anyway, to make a long story short, taking the head off and putting it back together wasn't easy, at least the first time. The second was better...
Anyways, my clutch is going out. On a scale of 1-10, changing a head being a 5, how hard is it to change a clutch? Maybe I should get a mechanic this time...
Anyways, my clutch is going out. On a scale of 1-10, changing a head being a 5, how hard is it to change a clutch? Maybe I should get a mechanic this time...
03-08-2008, 10:19 PM
#3
Senior Member
4WD will definitely increase the degree of difficulty, as you have to fool with the transfer case, front driveshaft, and shifter stuff.
A floor jack with a transmission adapter will help - for me, one of the hardest parts is pulling the tranny out, and reinstalling it.
If you can do a head replacement, suggest that you can take on a clutch replacement. A significant portion of a shop replacement charges for the clutch is the labor. I play a little mind game with myself, justifying the purchase of any special tools needed - such as the transmission plate for the floor jack, or a torque wrench - with the savings in the shop labor charges.
If you choose to tackle the job - do it right. Use good quality parts; consider replacing the pressure plate, slave cylinder/throw-out bearing, and pilot bearing/bushing; and be sure to ensure the flywheel is true - if turning is required, be sure to consider the use of shims to get the contact face back in the same plane. This is the kind of job you only want to have to do one time.
If you're looking for hard numbers, suggest the clutch would be a 3 or 4.
A floor jack with a transmission adapter will help - for me, one of the hardest parts is pulling the tranny out, and reinstalling it.
If you can do a head replacement, suggest that you can take on a clutch replacement. A significant portion of a shop replacement charges for the clutch is the labor. I play a little mind game with myself, justifying the purchase of any special tools needed - such as the transmission plate for the floor jack, or a torque wrench - with the savings in the shop labor charges.
If you choose to tackle the job - do it right. Use good quality parts; consider replacing the pressure plate, slave cylinder/throw-out bearing, and pilot bearing/bushing; and be sure to ensure the flywheel is true - if turning is required, be sure to consider the use of shims to get the contact face back in the same plane. This is the kind of job you only want to have to do one time.
If you're looking for hard numbers, suggest the clutch would be a 3 or 4.