Air Management Valve Vacuum line
#1
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Air Management Valve Vacuum line
Where does the vacuum port on the bottom of the Air Management Valve connect?
The local Ford dealer tells me it's to the intake manifold, but there's no open port that I can find. Any suggestions?
The local Ford dealer tells me it's to the intake manifold, but there's no open port that I can find. Any suggestions?
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Thanks for the info. This truck doesn't have the air injectors on the manifold and I'm clear on where the large diameter hoses run.
I'm stumped on the connection for the 1/4" diameter nipple on the bottom of the valve. It's got a rubber 90 on it. Any thoughts?
I'm stumped on the connection for the 1/4" diameter nipple on the bottom of the valve. It's got a rubber 90 on it. Any thoughts?
#6
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Oops, ok. That vacuum is either the TAB or TAD, I think it's the TAD (thermactor air diverter). It goes to a solenoid which should be near the EGR solenoid. Your underhood engine vacuum hose diagram should show it. The TAB (thermactor air bypass) also goes to a solenoid in the same area. So there will be 3 solenoids close to each other. Don't get them mixed up.
#7
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The TAB or TAD solenoid should link to that with a red, pink, black, yellow, or white (assuming factory lines are still in place) plastic vacuum line. Those solenoids are mounted at the firewall end of the driver's side valve cover. From the front of the truck, the EGR solenoid is pointing right at you, and you're looking for the two right behind it pointing toward the intake. My hunch is that you're looking for one of the lines on the middle solenoid. trace the lines from it and you should fine the other end of one disconnected. Like Sean said, the vacuum diagram under your hood will show the correct colors and routing.
Since the elbow is still there, the line might have been pulled out while working on the truck, or it might have fallen out. It's the same size as the other colored lines running around your motor - maybe take a look and see if one is dangling nearby.
Since the elbow is still there, the line might have been pulled out while working on the truck, or it might have fallen out. It's the same size as the other colored lines running around your motor - maybe take a look and see if one is dangling nearby.
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Thanks for all the help with this, I appreciate it. The vacuum diagram under the hood doesn't show the Air Mang. Valve. The other lines all appear intact. When I changed over to headers and replaced the exhaust system at the local shop, they did a great job on the pipes, horrible job on the bolt-on, bolt-off stuff. I sure that vacuum line has been off for the last 200 miles.
There's also a vacuum line that goes from the manifold to the HVAC controls, it has a Tee in it. The Tee is actually a diaphram, one end going to the HVAC controls, the other is capped. In one picture I found, the capped end isn't capped. It has a line going toward the firwall and down the back of the blower box. I'm thinking that's one possibility. That would connect the only two remaining available places in the vacuum system.
I chased down all the lines yesterday and everything else appears to be intact. I'm headed to the the High School Auto Shop today to see if they have better info. They're a pretty serious bunch down there and help me out from time to time. I'll post the solution and some pictures when I'm done.
Again, thanks much for all the help.
There's also a vacuum line that goes from the manifold to the HVAC controls, it has a Tee in it. The Tee is actually a diaphram, one end going to the HVAC controls, the other is capped. In one picture I found, the capped end isn't capped. It has a line going toward the firwall and down the back of the blower box. I'm thinking that's one possibility. That would connect the only two remaining available places in the vacuum system.
I chased down all the lines yesterday and everything else appears to be intact. I'm headed to the the High School Auto Shop today to see if they have better info. They're a pretty serious bunch down there and help me out from time to time. I'll post the solution and some pictures when I'm done.
Again, thanks much for all the help.
#9
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Those guys should have a chilton or haynes manual, which for $20 everyone should have one. It'll show you good photos and diagrams to be sure what you're looking for.