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302 Exhaust "Whoosh" Help Please.

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Old 05-11-2012, 02:58 AM
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Originally Posted by j_hickson09
This is probably a retarded question, but I've been looking here and other places on the web and can't find an example that is exactly the same as what's happening to my 1989 5.0 2wd with an auto.
The truck will sometimes throw a Check Engine Light and start running horrible. It stutters some under throttle and surges at idle before dying. The CL only comes on when it's running poorly and then goes off. The first time it happened I thought it was because it was really hot out (~95 degrees) and I was in stop-go traffic. Then it happened again after I got off the interstate while driving at night so I don't think that is the issue. Both times it wouldn't start back up right away, but after a little (10min or so) it would run fine. Now it has happened 3 more times, each time sooner and worse. Now the truck is sitting at the apartment complex where I just signed a lease because it wouldn't stay running at all.
I've seen a number of things that could cause similar problems, but nothing is exactly like my problem. This only happened after I cut off the stock exhaust and semi-gutted the 2nd cat so I'm really hoping the cat is clogged and causing me all this stress.
Please tell me that cutting off the 2nd cat completely and putting a pipe/tip on will cure my problem!!!! #fingerscrossed

Any other ideas are welcome too, as long as they aren't expensive...lol
Thanks in advance!
Before you start cutting things or buying parts do some testing. The cel light is on for a reason. The car is trying to tell you what's wrong. Pull your codes. That's the best place to start. Clogged cats are rare and usually a symptom of something else. Your engine doesn't normally produce solid waste to clog the cat. The basic test is simple. Hold your hand over the exhaust pipe and feel for a smooth pulse. If you don't feel anything do a vacuum test at the intake manifold. Hit Wot then let off quickly. The vacuum reading should snap back. If it slowly returns to the normal reading you have a restriction. First let's see what the computer says. It's testing the engine constantly.
Old 05-11-2012, 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Warlockk

Before you start cutting things or buying parts do some testing. The cel light is on for a reason. The car is trying to tell you what's wrong. Pull your codes. That's the best place to start. Clogged cats are rare and usually a symptom of something else. Your engine doesn't normally produce solid waste to clog the cat. The basic test is simple. Hold your hand over the exhaust pipe and feel for a smooth pulse. If you don't feel anything do a vacuum test at the intake manifold. Hit Wot then let off quickly. The vacuum reading should snap back. If it slowly returns to the normal reading you have a restriction. First let's see what the computer says. It's testing the engine constantly.
Thinkin I'm gonna quit giving advice... Or at least at 1 in the morning... Sometimes I just don't think in advance...
Old 05-11-2012, 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Warlockk

Burning out the fiberglass insulation in a glass pack ( cherry bomb ) makes it an empty pipe. There is no reason to spend $30 on a pipe. A glass pack is a tube with fiberglass insulation held in place with perforated steel. Is is not designed to be worn in or burned in it simply wears out. You may as well just pick up a $10 piece of pipe. BTW in some areas it is illegal to alter devices like mufflers etc for the purpose of making more volume so you may want to check your local laws. Baffled and chambered mufflers redirect sound waves to tune frequency. They sometimes mellow once the metal streaches but basically they stay the same for life.
Gotta disagree with that, once the fiberglass burns out it creates a gap between the inner and outer pipes which is then a type of baffle. If you put 2 trucks side by side, one with a glasspack and one without, there is definitely a difference. (yes, after the fiberglass is gone), its all about who likes what type of sound, but to say a glasspack is a "piece of pipe", no.
Old 05-11-2012, 12:53 PM
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Thanks for the ideas guys.
After my girlfriend got off work, she took me to pick up my truck and it started right up no problem and drove home just fine.
I'm heading back home for the weekend with my girl, Mother's day and all. Needless to say we are taking her car!

The check engine light only comes on when the truck is acting up, and it isn't ever at a time when I can check the code.
The reason I think the 2nd cat may be clogged is because when I was gutting it, I didn't finish....dumb I know. So there is still crap in there, is it possible that when the ceramic shifts a certain way it clogs the flow and chokes the motor, but other times it's ok?
I didn't have this problem until I tried gutting the cat so that's why I think it may be the problem.
Cutting it off is an option for me, no emissions testing here. But I don't have tools to test the vacuum or anything.
Thanks!!
Old 05-11-2012, 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by j_hickson09
Thanks for the ideas guys.
After my girlfriend got off work, she took me to pick up my truck and it started right up no problem and drove home just fine.
I'm heading back home for the weekend with my girl, Mother's day and all. Needless to say we are taking her car!

The check engine light only comes on when the truck is acting up, and it isn't ever at a time when I can check the code.
The reason I think the 2nd cat may be clogged is because when I was gutting it, I didn't finish....dumb I know. So there is still crap in there, is it possible that when the ceramic shifts a certain way it clogs the flow and chokes the motor, but other times it's ok?
I didn't have this problem until I tried gutting the cat so that's why I think it may be the problem.
Cutting it off is an option for me, no emissions testing here. But I don't have tools to test the vacuum or anything.
Thanks!!
You can check your codes at any time, if it throws a code, the code will be there till its cleared with the computer. It doesn't have to be happening right at that moment.
Old 05-11-2012, 02:00 PM
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Also, the cat isn't ceramic. It's got thin metal crap inside it.
Old 05-11-2012, 11:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Just call me Sean
Also, the cat isn't ceramic. It's got thin metal crap inside it.
Actually it is ceramic coated in precious metals. And X2 about checking for codes. A code will be stored in the memory. As for the vacuum check a gauge is about $5-$10. You can pick one up at harbor freight. Its one of the best diagnostic tools to have before electronic engine monitors.

Last edited by Warlockk; 05-11-2012 at 11:10 PM.
Old 05-11-2012, 11:21 PM
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Originally Posted by MonsterinWI

Gotta disagree with that, once the fiberglass burns out it creates a gap between the inner and outer pipes which is then a type of baffle. If you put 2 trucks side by side, one with a glasspack and one without, there is definitely a difference. (yes, after the fiberglass is gone), its all about who likes what type of sound, but to say a glasspack is a "piece of pipe", no.
A flashback has an outer shell made of tubing with an inner skeleton of excluded or perforated steel. So without the fiberglass its a pipe with a cage inside. The sound difference between the 2 vehiclets is due to the inner diameter of the tubing. Factory vehicles sometimes use a section of oversized tubing called a resonator to tune the sound. Again you can achieve this same sound with a piece of tube the same dimensions. A void between 2 tubes would act as an insulator and, if anything reduce radiant sound from the sides of.the pipe as well as reduce heat radiation. It would have no effect on the sound out the exit pipe. If it did you could buy a piece of tube and slide it over your existing pipe for.
Old 05-11-2012, 11:27 PM
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Wasn't any kind of ceramic I even saw. I bashed that crap out, it was like thin tin.
Old 05-12-2012, 06:35 AM
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Well all I know is what I've read on that. I would guess its a thin ceramic with metal outer layer so it appears like tin.


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