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Recently picked up a 1995 F150XL Single cab 4x4, 5 speed manual, 300 6 in it. I was doin some 4x4ing through the mud with it, and all of a sudden it started jerking and wheels locked up. I am 99% sure transfer case nearly locked up. Only happens when I put it in 4Hi. (It has manual locking hubs on the front wheels, and a floor shift). The transfer case is covered in oil that looks like its been there for awhile, more like a grease. Is this sucker leaking? Strange that 4Lo works. Anyways if the transfer case has a leak in it, will this effect its preformance in 2Hi? This is our only vehicle at the moment. I had a 07 ranger been in a accident and my insurance went up from 2000 to nearly 6000 a year so thats how I scored this truck. No leaks from the oil pan/tranny. If it is infact the transfer case, can it be resealed with a liquid gasket without removing it from the vehicle? 4x4 light does not come on ever in 4Hi. But I do know the truck is in 4wd when I move the shifter to 4hi because of the handling. the Low range light does come on in 4lo i am just suspecting a bulb in that. Is the Cover on the dash over the guages hard to remove? or just simple clips like the rangers. ALso power steering whines when turning wheel and power steering fluid is showing Good on the dipstick. (Running at operating temp)
Check to see if the axles have the same gear in them. If these are the same you might have to repair or replace the transfer case. According to some interchange books these Fords all have the same input gears on the transfer so If you find a older transfer with the proper transmission adapter you can put any married Ford transfer case in, including the heavy duty NP 205.
it's leaking. I filled it right up last week and now its nearly empty. I am just probably going to have the transfer case repaired. If i just leave it in 2wd and drive, will that screw up my transfer case?
Yes running these even in 2by will trash the transfer without oil. There is a pump on the rear output that pumps the fluid to lubricate the transfer. One problem with rebuilding these is that the keyway that holds the pump steady will tend to oblong or wear off resulting in the pump spinning with the output shaft.
Wow great news Better get an estimate on the repairs for it. Don't think the seal is worth much, but labor will kill. How hard is it to repair a parking brake? The cables are shot. All rusted and seized. I sprayed em with a whole can of WD40 and I got the brake on, but will not release
The hardest part of changing the parking brake cables is unhooking them from the drum backing plate and the lever inside the drum that the cable is hooked to, and that isn't too hard. Getting the new one back on the lever is a little tricky, it's good to have an extra set of hands but not impossible by yourself. You will also have to disassemble the rear brakes to get to the lever.
Originally Posted by Early Cuyler
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