Here's for an 09 to 14.. shouldn't be much different.
https://www.f150forum.com/f75/rigid-...9-14-a-259978/
i just tied mine to the trailer hitch wires and out a toggle on the dash.. easy works the same

 

I had this type setup on my 2011
I used the harness with relay and ran power from the battery to the harness which I installed towards the back, used an existing bolt on the frame or body (can't remember) for ground. Used the tail light reverse wire to activate the lights. Then ran a couple wires forward to use the lights off of the switch.
Didn't have to put anything in the cab other than routing the 2 wires for the switch back to the relay harness.

I went with Rigid Ignite this time to not have to use a relay harness. Just tapped into the trailer harness reverse wire and done. I used the flush mount ones and did drill into my bumper. Also they do make them with a bracket to surface mount.
https://www.rigidindustries.com/led-lighting/20621

 

 

I had an interesting discussion with Rigid technical support this morning. Rigid stated that the harness had been test fitted on my truck. However, no one has actually installed the harness to see if it works. The technician pulled out one of the harnesses so that he could follow my discussion over the phone. The result:

1. Most of the wire will have to be cut and spliced because it will not pass through the firewall or other cab inserts with the existing plugs and terminal lugs installed.
2. It is highly likely that the power from the battery to the relay is not long enough (7.5') to reach with the relay installed per instructions near the driver.
3. The relay can be mounted in the engine compartment, BUT the switch wiring will not reach inside the cab through the firewall (2' long).
4. General consensus, it is probably better to just cut out the relay, fuses and plugs for the reverse lights, use new wiring, splice where needed and run it myself.

A complete waste of money for the kit. Of course, I have not checked to see if the lights (pair) are cheaper than the backup kit.

 

In all seriousness, thanks for taking one for the team.

 

I submitted feedback to Rigid in hopes that they will redesign the harness to make it work at minimal cost.

1. Replace the existing relay with one that is waterproof and heat resistant. In turn, change the mounting location from inside the cab to the engine compartment.
2. Change the length of the wires from relay to switch from 2' to 8' and leave the connectors off the ends. The wire can be passed through the firewall grommet and connectors added inside the cab.

This allows the entire harness to be run outside the cab with the exception of the switch and switch wiring. It would probably cut installation time by several hours.

 

I did the same as twoboosted, they work GREAT. Properly tapped the reverse wire in the 7-pin harness.

 

What did you use to open the hole? (Plasma cutter, hole saw, dremmel, etc)

I bought the light already but been debating on how to approach the cutting of the hole. I do not have access to a plasma cutter.

 

I used a $25 cutoff tool from Horrible Freight. Unless you have a strong compressor, just get an electric one and several wheels. A grinder will be useful to clean it up.

Measure three times, use masking tape and a sharpie to mark the location, stand back and look at it each time. Cut once.

 

Or cut a cardboard template out to make sure that you're happy with how the light fits into the template. Use the template to transfer the cut-out to the bumper.