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Yea, that's the first thing to go. I replaced both rear lower panels about 5 years ago. Cutting straight across just below the body line, then butting in a new panel is the way to go.. Once you familiarize yourself w/welding body metal, there's nothing to it really. Setting up for blast and paint can be a little daunting, but doable.
Is it worth my time to attempt using my Harbor Freight 70-amp, 120v AC stick welder or should I save the headache and borrow my friend's MIG?
If you have time, can you post up a link to the speakers you bought? I may need to do this as well.
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/searchpage.jsp?st=kicker+cs68+coaxial+speakers&_dy ncharset=UTF-8&_dynSessConf=&id=pcat17071&type=page&sc=Global&c p=1&nrp=&sp=&qp=&list=n&iht=y&usc=All+Categories&k s=960&keys=keys Not a problem, $100 for all 4 of them, next up is a a head unit
Is it worth my time to attempt using my Harbor Freight 70-amp, 120v AC stick welder or should I save the headache and borrow my friend's MIG?
Yea, just use the MIG and pulse weld it. Welding body metal (18-20 gauge here) is different. What you can't do is go by any instructional documentation on paper. You weld w/23/24 wire w/ up to 1/2" -stick out. Angle isn't the norm (10*), you may require 30* dependent upon 120 or 240. 120V is better for pulse welding thin metal for the most part. But weld w/gas. Spot weld, it doesn't matter if your at or under 3/16.
Once the weld is finished and dependent upon how well you did lol (no build up, you want your hits flat w/tiny dimple in the middle), use a stone to grind if heavy or a flap disc if it came out good. The stone for heavy do to the fact you have to keep the heat down. 18-20 gauge will warp looking cross eyed at it.
After, you can use any little cheap spot blaster to hit just the weld with. Takes about 5 seconds normally, but must be done or it WILL trap enough contaminants to initiate a rust cycle all over again. Then hit it w/paint prep (cleaner) or solvent. After, using ONLY Epoxy primer (no need for self etch or etching primer), the best you find, hit just the weld.
It's finished , done proper and that weld will never rust or bleed thru, probably for as long as your alive lol.
There's a ton of ways to half *** it, - just one that I know of to do right. I hate body work btw.
I can't imagine having to swap wheels because of the season.
hahaha, it's slightly annoying.
Truck came with summers and winters. I make a habit of running non-studded winters year round when I can. Just got such a setup for the 04, so her wheels won't have to get messed with for a few years (assuming the truck is still around for that long). The 10th Gen will be getting the same when both her sets wears out.
Truck came with summers and winters. I make a habit of running non-studded winters year round when I can. Just got such a setup for the 04, so her wheels won't have to get messed with for a few years (assuming the truck is still around for that long). The 10th Gen will be getting the same when both her sets wears out.
I considered keeping my '99 stockers and using them on the '03 for winter to "save" my new wheels, but can't really justify two sets of KO2's. One plus is Colorado doesn't use salt on the roads (but they do lay down that $&¥@ brine) .
I considered keeping my '99 stockers and using them on the '03 for winter to "save" my new wheels, but can't really justify two sets of KO2's. One plus is Colorado doesn't use salt on the roads (but they do lay down that $&¥@ brine) .
Andy
Just keep the truck washed on a regular basis and you'll be fine man. Keep that beautiful truck clean. The main problem lies in using tires in winter, that really aren't designed for it.
For my truck, I personally like the look of the steel winter rims over the aluminum stockers, and i don't have to worry about winter harming them anymore than the other 3 seasons. I'd have nicer custom ones, if I had that kinda money......
11-10-2016, 12:15 PM
