Is it worth to do pi swap over the p&p on stock heads with a small cam ? Will i get all most the same power ?

It's an XLT i think, I believe the off-road model is either XLT or FX4 and I don't have the fancy wheels or anything that says FX4 on it. I'm not entirely sure to be honest. Got some dents and the interior has a lot of cig burns from the PO. Seat covers are expensive so I dunno when I'll get em. Yeah you need a PI intake and you'll need to get some 5/8" heater hose and hose clamps because one of them is relocated. Also you will need to either tap the flat spot at the back passenger side of the PI intake where the NPI has it's heater hose or use a 1.75" inline hose adapter and a 1/4" male to 3/8" female NPT adapter fitting to put the second coolant temperature sensor in because PI vehicles use one ECT and NPI use two.

Yeah that be cool sounds like u have a pritty sweet set up is yours a xl or xlt ?? I planed on doing a new timing chains an an gears. but do i pull the intake manifold off of what ever truck i get the heads outs of

You have to tear quite a bit apart, intake, front cover, timing chains and all, so it has to be retimed and you need special tools to do it. It's not like the old over head valve motors with the one cam above the crank. I really need to get some good pictures of my truck and it's too late now but I wish I had done a step by step notebook kind of of my build.

Ok i no what you mean bout the seat now an i was planing on having the motor dun by someone ive dun four wheeler motors an bunch other but never car. Im just interested in in what im going to be buying an u sound like you no your stuff about this motor

I put the spacers between the top of the brackets and the seat. There is a metal support channel on the bottom of the seat you have to notch out where the spacers go if you do it the way I did. There is 5 inches of space before the lift and I lifted them 2.5 inches to give me 7.5 and built boxes that would fit under that. And not to be rude but if you're not pretty experienced in doing motor work you should get someone who has done it to help you.

u drill where the stock studs are on the floor blot that down an then the seats to the bracket or or is it bolted all together where stock stuff is really tryin to put my kicker 10s under the seat with my amp but lookin pritty tight. an another thing is im going to be doing is the pi swap do i pull the the intake manifold off of what ever i pull the heads off of ?

I had metal at work, lengths of 1"x3" steel and some 1/4" flat bar. I cut the 9 inch lengths and stacked one 1x3, one 1/4" bar then one 1x3 and one 1/4" bar to get 2 1/2 inches of lift. Welded the pieces together to make solid 2 1/2" x 9" bars. You need 3 of these. Then I laid them on the seat brackets and marked the holes I needed and drilled them on my drill press. You have to sawzall the fins off the two drivers side brackets cause they make it hard to get the sub boxes down into.

I couldn't find low profile enough sub boxes so I used some shelving 5/8" ply wood I had in the basement and made some 12"x16" and 7" high. I used elmers wood glue to seal and drywall screws to hold everything together. I put one box on each side because there is a hump in the middle of the floor.

I don't have any pictures of my truck at all yet, I should have done a build thread but now I'm waiting till I'm done to get pictures. Another week or so probably.

hey, i noticed that you have 2 10" subs under rear seat, howd you get this setup? lifter blocks??? send pic if you can