2013 HID Headlight / Paint / with D2S bulb kit
#1
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2013 HID Headlight / Paint / with D2S bulb kit
First off do not hold me or this site liable........
For those who pay $900 for headlights and $100 for wiring harness over $1000 dollars, you do not have too. For those wanting to save money but want the 2013 HID headlights please read on.
First was ordering the HID lights without the Ballast but they did have the bulb which was nice because they had the bracket. I paid $150 each on ebay. I researched the bulbs the D2S bulb will fit perfectly in the place. I picked up a D2S kit for $30 w/ free shipping.
Right into opening the Headlights up. I got one driverside that was black, but couldn't find a black for the passenger side. I was able to find one but in chrome so I would have to open it and paint the 2 plastic pieces. 1 matte black and the outer gloss black.
Before placing in the oven remove one bolt on the lower part of the back housing. Remove all the lights and I went ahead removed the harness from inside of the housing.
I pre heated the oven first to 200 and couldn't get it apart so I bumped up to 225 and loosen up a little, but 250 and heated them for about 15 mins checking through out was able to get them to pull apart.
Painters tape to tape off where the turn signal is. Now to remove this piece from the actual lens you have to remove about 15 torque head screws. Maybe not that many, but there is a lot.
I sprayed 3 layers on each part and reversed the steps to heat up the original glue and pressed the lens back in place. I then followed up around the edge with black caulk adhesive I got from lowes.
Just took a picture of the inside how it is laid out.
Finish product
Left is the one I worked on the right was not touched.
This is how I mounted the ballast but the wires was long enough so zipped tied to the frame by the radiator sorry didn't take pictures of that. Now the difference with the D2S bulbs is they do not have the brights they are just low beam, What I did was get a 24" LED light bar which is really bright plus with HID's you won't really need brights.
For the wiring you can search for how to hook up a relay that is $5 bucks from autozone or advance, really simple tap into the headlight + wire, ground 1 wire from the relay, hook 1 wire up to the battery with fuse $5 I think and the other wire will go to both lights to the + red wire, the black wire is ground just ground to metal.
done... on the truck
Sorry if I left some info out, but I think covered everything let me know.
For those who pay $900 for headlights and $100 for wiring harness over $1000 dollars, you do not have too. For those wanting to save money but want the 2013 HID headlights please read on.
First was ordering the HID lights without the Ballast but they did have the bulb which was nice because they had the bracket. I paid $150 each on ebay. I researched the bulbs the D2S bulb will fit perfectly in the place. I picked up a D2S kit for $30 w/ free shipping.
Right into opening the Headlights up. I got one driverside that was black, but couldn't find a black for the passenger side. I was able to find one but in chrome so I would have to open it and paint the 2 plastic pieces. 1 matte black and the outer gloss black.
Before placing in the oven remove one bolt on the lower part of the back housing. Remove all the lights and I went ahead removed the harness from inside of the housing.
I pre heated the oven first to 200 and couldn't get it apart so I bumped up to 225 and loosen up a little, but 250 and heated them for about 15 mins checking through out was able to get them to pull apart.
Painters tape to tape off where the turn signal is. Now to remove this piece from the actual lens you have to remove about 15 torque head screws. Maybe not that many, but there is a lot.
I sprayed 3 layers on each part and reversed the steps to heat up the original glue and pressed the lens back in place. I then followed up around the edge with black caulk adhesive I got from lowes.
Just took a picture of the inside how it is laid out.
Finish product
Left is the one I worked on the right was not touched.
This is how I mounted the ballast but the wires was long enough so zipped tied to the frame by the radiator sorry didn't take pictures of that. Now the difference with the D2S bulbs is they do not have the brights they are just low beam, What I did was get a 24" LED light bar which is really bright plus with HID's you won't really need brights.
For the wiring you can search for how to hook up a relay that is $5 bucks from autozone or advance, really simple tap into the headlight + wire, ground 1 wire from the relay, hook 1 wire up to the battery with fuse $5 I think and the other wire will go to both lights to the + red wire, the black wire is ground just ground to metal.
done... on the truck
Sorry if I left some info out, but I think covered everything let me know.
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Lockelamora (11-11-2015)
#2
Senior Member
thanks for this post. detailed enough, and is probably going to save $ for a lot of people. curious about the longevity of the lights you ordered though, and hopefully you can check back in once your head em on for awhile!
#3
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#4
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Update: it has been about a month and still working perfectly.
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#8
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#9
Question though. Since you don't have the factory ballast on the bottom of the headlight how did you close up the hole where the ballast would go? Just curious because Im going to swap out my factory projectors with some evoX-R's and convert to a d2s system and was curious about how to close up that hole. Any insight would be much appreciated!
#10
F150 Forum
iTrader: (1)
Question though. Since you don't have the factory ballast on the bottom of the headlight how did you close up the hole where the ballast would go? Just curious because Im going to swap out my factory projectors with some evoX-R's and convert to a d2s system and was curious about how to close up that hole. Any insight would be much appreciated!