Topic Sponsor
Interior "How-To" articles pertaining to the Interior of an F150

Write up on how I made my not so great A/C a little better.

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 06-21-2015, 12:31 AM
  #381  
Senior Member
 
Raineman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: SK, Canada
Posts: 101
Received 19 Likes on 15 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by digitaltrucker
Interesting what you say about the high pressure side not being hot, mine is the same way and I pointed it out to them.
yeah it was warm in the shop that day, the ambient temp was about 80-90 degrees so the high side should have been cycling somewhere in the 200psi-350psi range. 125psi just doesn't cut it.

I'll let you know if they find anything
The following 2 users liked this post by Raineman:
digitaltrucker (06-21-2015), kenny908 (05-30-2016)
Old 06-21-2015, 01:00 AM
  #382  
Senior Member
 
Raineman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: SK, Canada
Posts: 101
Received 19 Likes on 15 Posts
Default

When air passes through the fins of the A/C condenser, the high-pressure high temperature refrigerant gas within the A/C condenser gives up its heat. The refrigerant then condenses as it leaves the A/C condenser and becomes a high-pressure low temperature liquid. The A/C expansion valve controls the high-pressure, low temperature liquid refrigerant from the A/C liquid line and converts it into a low-pressure, low-temperature mixture of liquid and gas before it enters the A/C evaporator.Refrigerant enters the A/C evaporator from the A/C expansion valve as a low temperature, low pressure mixture of liquid and gas. As air flows over the fins of the A/C evaporator, the humidity in the air condenses on the fins, and the heat from the air is absorbed by the refrigerant. Heat absorption causes the refrigerant to boil and vaporize. The refrigerant becomes a low pressure gas when it leaves the A/C evaporator.

And that folks is almost as basic as it can be explained, that's how A/C works. So all insulating the low side line is doing for you is helping keep the low pressure vapor a vapor when it goes through the compressor to start the cycle over again. By the time it gets to the line you're insulating the cooling inside your cab has already happened.

I'm pretty sure Ford switched from an orifice tube to a TXV (Thermal Expansion Valve) system and that's when the problems started(could be wrong about that though). Also I'm not trying to say anyones ideas are bad ideas, hell I'm sure I'm going to try a few tricks that have been posted lol

Last edited by Raineman; 06-21-2015 at 01:13 AM.
The following users liked this post:
Kenny7231 (07-13-2016)
Old 06-21-2015, 09:15 AM
  #383  
Senior Member
 
digitaltrucker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Texas
Posts: 11,516
Received 2,219 Likes on 1,695 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by Raineman
When air passes through the fins of the A/C condenser, the high-pressure high temperature refrigerant gas within the A/C condenser gives up its heat. The refrigerant then condenses as it leaves the A/C condenser and becomes a high-pressure low temperature liquid. The A/C expansion valve controls the high-pressure, low temperature liquid refrigerant from the A/C liquid line and converts it into a low-pressure, low-temperature mixture of liquid and gas before it enters the A/C evaporator.Refrigerant enters the A/C evaporator from the A/C expansion valve as a low temperature, low pressure mixture of liquid and gas. As air flows over the fins of the A/C evaporator, the humidity in the air condenses on the fins, and the heat from the air is absorbed by the refrigerant. Heat absorption causes the refrigerant to boil and vaporize. The refrigerant becomes a low pressure gas when it leaves the A/C evaporator.

And that folks is almost as basic as it can be explained, that's how A/C works. So all insulating the low side line is doing for you is helping keep the low pressure vapor a vapor when it goes through the compressor to start the cycle over again. By the time it gets to the line you're insulating the cooling inside your cab has already happened.

I'm pretty sure Ford switched from an orifice tube to a TXV (Thermal Expansion Valve) system and that's when the problems started(could be wrong about that though). Also I'm not trying to say anyones ideas are bad ideas, hell I'm sure I'm going to try a few tricks that have been posted lol

Great information. Regarding Fixed Orifice change to TXV, my 08 had a FO.


I wonder what is in an 2013 Edge? I use my wife's Edge for comparison. Her unit will freeze you out and its not even on max air and almost immediately after turning it on. The other thing about her unit is, it only take 19 ounces compared to our 24. My sons 2014, does the same!
Old 06-21-2015, 09:29 AM
  #384  
Member

 
RLXXI's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Big Easy
Posts: 26,680
Received 6,199 Likes on 4,672 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by Raineman
I'm pretty sure Ford switched from an orifice tube to a TXV (Thermal Expansion Valve) system and that's when the problems started(could be wrong about that though).


That's what I've been saying all along, mine cools pretty good but I checked it with gauges and got nearly identical readings and added another 14-16 oz and it did improve a little bit but as I said it was cooling pretty good before that, I was seeing 42-45* at the vents, probably closer to 40 now.
Old 06-21-2015, 09:36 PM
  #385  
Senior Member
 
Raineman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: SK, Canada
Posts: 101
Received 19 Likes on 15 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by digitaltrucker
I wonder what is in an 2013 Edge? I use my wife's Edge for comparison. Her unit will freeze you out and its not even on max air and almost immediately after turning it on. The other thing about her unit is, it only take 19 ounces compared to our 24. My sons 2014, does the same!
I have an '08 Edge and same thing, cool fast and stays real cold.

I was out today all over the back country and it was working the same as usual (around 58 deg F.), after a few hours of driving it quit altogether. It was blowing 74 deg. and it was 21C (69.8F)outside. So it was cooler without trying the A/C. Sorry for mixing Celsius and Fahrenheit, I'm used to C but my thermometer is in F and that's what I've always done A/C in.
The following users liked this post:
digitaltrucker (06-21-2015)
Old 06-22-2015, 08:07 PM
  #386  
Member
 
Engineer Guy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Western Colorado
Posts: 85
Received 23 Likes on 21 Posts

Default Thanks

To all those contributing...

My own Insulation Add Write-Up is up-Thread. My 2014 5.0 A/C is doing 'OK' up here at Mile High Altitudes. Not great, but it eventually catches up and cools the Cab.

I just wanted to thank Rnlcomp for his tip in Post #362 to add Reflective Tape to the A/C run right down by the Exhaust Manifold. I really hadn't a reason to look closely at it prior to his Post. I see now how addressing that Plumbing would be smart.

Will do soon...
.

Last edited by Engineer Guy; 06-22-2015 at 08:11 PM.
Old 06-22-2015, 09:39 PM
  #387  
Member

 
RLXXI's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Big Easy
Posts: 26,680
Received 6,199 Likes on 4,672 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by Engineer Guy
To all those contributing...

My own Insulation Add Write-Up is up-Thread. My 2014 5.0 A/C is doing 'OK' up here at Mile High Altitudes. Not great, but it eventually catches up and cools the Cab.

I just wanted to thank Rnlcomp for his tip in Post #362 to add Reflective Tape to the A/C run right down by the Exhaust Manifold. I really hadn't a reason to look closely at it prior to his Post. I see now how addressing that Plumbing would be smart.

Will do soon...
.


Welcome and no one was more surprised than I to see just how close that line is to the manifold and no insulation. It's almost like putting a refrigerator with no insulation next to the fire place.
Old 06-23-2015, 01:51 PM
  #388  
Senior Member
 
gwpfan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Nevada
Posts: 512
Received 51 Likes on 42 Posts

Default

Yep, I wrapped my suction line with reflective tape. It makes a difference.

Also as a reminder when you first start up your truck crack your windows/sunroof for the first few miles and it'll help. The higher cab heat will be pushed out the windows and put less load on the AC, especially if on high/recirc mode.
Old 06-23-2015, 03:57 PM
  #389  
BoostKing Tuning

 
Boostking's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Florida
Posts: 471
Received 100 Likes on 85 Posts

Default

So I havent done this "mod" yet, however I did get a vent thermometer for my truck to see where its at stock. I felt my ac was lacking in this truck and found this thread. So today its a nice 91-92* according to my trucks dash display. I went for a drive to get lunch and waited for the cab to cool down some and read my gauge. I am only getting around 50* out of the vent. I switched vents to make sure I had the same readings.

IIRC Ford says that 40* difference from outside is "acceptable"? Or is it 40* at the vent?
__________________
www.BoostKingTuning.com
2022 F150 Tremor - Current - BoostKing Custom Tuned 440whp on 93. --- 2022 Expedition Stealth H.O. - JB4 Only --- 2018 Mustang Hellion Sleeper - 907 whp on E85
Old 06-23-2015, 06:53 PM
  #390  
Senior Member
 
celltech's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: NW Minnesota
Posts: 312
Received 49 Likes on 40 Posts

Default

They state ambient divided by 2 plus 5 is acceptable. 90 outside would make 50 out the vents OK in Fords mind.


Quick Reply: Write up on how I made my not so great A/C a little better.



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:25 AM.