dhonnoll

His is a how to for a Dana 44 open diff for a Trac-Lok. The one I purchases was for a Jeep so the spiders did not allow for a C-Clip. This is actually a common problem if you go with a more extreme ARB locker or Detroit locker.
First the preliminary stuff remove the wheel, put it on a jack stand, remove the coil spring clip, brake caliper, front drive shaft, shock bolt. If you need steps for that, you should strongly re-consider the job you are about to undertake

dhonnoll

Once you have done the preliminary removal stuff put the chunk on a jack. You might want to use a bigger floor jack than the one in the previous photos

Use a 1 1/8" socket or wrench to remove the pivot arm bolt. (sorry no photos)

Once removed put a come-along or HEAVY DUTY ratcheting tie down around the axle and to something solid. In my case, the tow hooks of my Honda C-RV.
Ratchet the axle forward until the radius arm comes out of its slot in the frame

Next be very careful not to drop the assembly and remove the pivot arm bolt. The axle should then be disconnected (other than the passenger axle shaft and ready to remove). You can disconnect the rubber from the axle haft and pull axle to side away from the vehicle. It should look like this when done.

dhonnoll

I forgot to mention in the preliminary work you will remove the 4 bolts that hold the anti-sway bar plate to the frame and the bolt that holds the driver's side anti sway bar and the steering tie rod end from the drivers side steering knuckle in the preliminary work

With the axle on the ground remove the fill (and now drain) plug and dump the oil in a bucket or something. I re-used mine because I knew it was less than a year old, synthetic and never submurged

With the oil out, remove the front bolts 12mm or 13mm I think from the housing and the 2 side ones 18mm or 19mm. With the bolts removed, remove the differential from the housing. Turn it, pull it to the passenger side. It will be tight but it will come out. Might require some "calibrating" and banging with the universal 36oz calibration tool. This will make a mess and you will have axle grease everywhere. It won't all come out when you drain it. Get some oil dry and get used to the idea.

dhonnoll

Once the differential (with passenger side axle stub) is removed from the driver's side axle and housing remove the clip that holds the passenger side axle stub in the differential. This may require turning the differential to get it into position. It comes right out with a screw driver. If the same differential or a Ford one is going back in, don't loose that C-Clip. In my case I won't be re-using it as the differential is for a Jeep.
Remove the passenger side axle stub. It slides right out.
Remove the 4 bolts 2 per side holding the carrier bearing into the differential. If there are any shims hang on to them and the side on which they go
Some prying may be necessary to get the carrier (with bearings and races out). The last 2 photos are blurry thanks to a greasy fogged up phone camera lens but they are of an empty differential housing

dhonnoll

These are blurry but I removed the ring gear from the carrier of the open differential it took a 17mm or 19mm wrench and 3-5 smacks with the 36oz universal calibration tool to break them loose. Sorry I don't remember the torque specs to tighten back down but do tighten them like a wheel. In opposing order all the way around to ensure an even tight fit.
Now is also a good time to put in brand new bearings and races. If you have any shims, you will need to add them. This of course assuming you are using the same ring and pinion gear and they are not whining already. Otherwise you will need to set the backlash which I have never done and do not cover in this section.
Once the gears are on, place the spindle with new bearings and races back in the housing with any shims and tighten to torque specs. If you are going to re use the C-Clip, add the passenger stub axle and do so now, if not, put the differential back to the housing, line up the splines of the drivers side axle and bolt it back to the housing to torque specs

dhonnoll

Did I mention tailgates make nice portable work benches especially if they have a plastic bed liner?
With the differential back in the housing, and the passenger stub back in (if you used the C-Clip). If not, put the passenger stub axle back in now. Just slide it in all the way
Add a 7/8" compression spring. Cut to 2.5 - 3" inside the cup side of the passenger axle stub
Put the axle back almost in place and get the radius arm started and held in with the nut
Line up the axle shafts and jack up the axle. Be very careful. Don't do anything stupid and drop it on your head, arm, hand, toe or any other part of your body for that matter it probably weighs 400lbs or so. With the jack under the axle lift slightly and get the axle started. The spring in the splined shaft of the axle will hold constant pressure holding the axle in the differential making the C-clip not necessary. Once the axle is started, and everything is lined up, use a come-along or heavy duty ratcheting strap to pull the axle housing and all towards the passenger side and line up the pivot bushing and bolt

dhonnoll

Did I mention that bear wrestling is a pre-requisite for this job? Yes for the next 2 or 3 days you will feel as though you wrestled a bear and won't remember who won.
Jack up the pivot bushing side of the axle housing. You may need to ratchet it closer to the passenger side with that come-along or heavy duty ratcheting tie down. Once you have the pivot bushing bolt lined up (this may require some prying with a crow bar and cursing and straining your milk) just don't do anything stupid and get hurt. The pivot bushing bolt and nut I want to say is an 18mm. Tighten it once it is in. Tighten the radius arm bushing nut.
Put the spring on the shock tower first (the shock will bottom out before you will pry that spring down hard enough to get it in if you go shock first) then do the shock, tie rod end, sway bar and the plate that held it and the bushings up and put the caliper back on and the tire. Congrats enjoy your replacement, or upgraded differential. Put the boot back on the axle shaft. A hose clamp or couple of thick tie rod ends should due.

bobkyle2

Moved.