Starter and alternater help
01-19-2019, 06:24 PM
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Starter and alternater help
Changed motor out on a 1991f150 from a 5.0 to a 4.9l motor is from a 1995 4.9l Including starter and alternator is there a way to hook up the 1995 starter and alternator already had to change harness please help
01-21-2019, 12:43 AM
#2
I think I would use the Alternator and starter from the newer 4.9L which I am assuming you are doing, then you would need to identify wiring, Alt. should be close to same, should be a hot (main out +), one for computer/idiot light and one for Volt meter on dash if it has one on the panel, some have a ground or other sensor type, the year you are messing with should be 3 or 4 wire, this is why you need to compare the two on vehicle schematic and match functions or you could use the wrong wire and your charging gauge not work and or idiot light stay on, cut existing plug off and preferably solder and seal with shrink tubing each solder joint for your Alt. Pigtail Plug and you should be good.
Starter should be 2-3 wire but it would depend on whether it has a solenoid on starter, or external solenoid mounted on fender well, if your new new model motor has a starter mounted solenoid and the older motor also had stater mounted solenoid then the swap should be simple, it should be a + battery cable lead and two small (maybe 3) wires all in one harness going to starter location, but again check wiring diagram of both so you can be sure just to be safe, but generally solenoid mounted on starter is 3 wire, one from Battery and two for keying solenoid, in the case the two will generally be different size ring ends for keying so that will be your guide, if both keying wires have same size ring ends it should not matter which terminal you connect them to, but again, check wiring schematics on the two models to be sure unless you are sure from what you know personally.
If your new motor has the solenoid on the starter and your old one had it on the fender well, then trace back the wires that went to the fender mounted solenoid and see if you can remove them from the harness to reach the starter so you can reconnect them to the solenoid that way, if they will not reach then cut the wiring back a foot or so towards the fire wall (you will most likely need to remove the wire from the wire loom carefully (protective split plastic cover), now you you have the two ring ends that went to the solenoid on the fender well with at least a foot of wire so your color codes on the ends of your extension will be the same and the solder joint will be back a little ways in the wire loom you want at least a foot, then extend the wiring with same gauge wire, preferably automotive grade wiring, soldering each end of the extension at the cut and then at the end of your new wiring, preferably soldering and using shrink tubing on each soldered wire connection in the extension, be sure to match color codes on your extension and then buy a roll of wire loom and cover the extension and tape at intersection with main harness, then route the covered wire to your starter so heat from exhaust will not melt it and make sure you have a tiny bit of play for motor movement and make sure it is secured as well so it will not flop around any and hit a manifold or exhaust pipe, if your solenoid again was on the fender well then you would also need to replace + battery cable that will go from the battery all the way to your solenoid on the starter now, it also will need to be wrapped in wire loom and secured in at least 2 places, maybe 3 with a insulated wire clamp to further deter any short circuits from vibration and or oil compromising wire insulation (softening).
If your new motor has this type starter with solenoid on the starter, then the wire clamps or at least the locations should already be there, they can be routed a number of ways.
Hope this helps, I am thinking some here that know the exact differences may be responding and maybe do a better job at explaining maybe, but I think if you follow this you will be fine
Guy
Starter should be 2-3 wire but it would depend on whether it has a solenoid on starter, or external solenoid mounted on fender well, if your new new model motor has a starter mounted solenoid and the older motor also had stater mounted solenoid then the swap should be simple, it should be a + battery cable lead and two small (maybe 3) wires all in one harness going to starter location, but again check wiring diagram of both so you can be sure just to be safe, but generally solenoid mounted on starter is 3 wire, one from Battery and two for keying solenoid, in the case the two will generally be different size ring ends for keying so that will be your guide, if both keying wires have same size ring ends it should not matter which terminal you connect them to, but again, check wiring schematics on the two models to be sure unless you are sure from what you know personally.
If your new motor has the solenoid on the starter and your old one had it on the fender well, then trace back the wires that went to the fender mounted solenoid and see if you can remove them from the harness to reach the starter so you can reconnect them to the solenoid that way, if they will not reach then cut the wiring back a foot or so towards the fire wall (you will most likely need to remove the wire from the wire loom carefully (protective split plastic cover), now you you have the two ring ends that went to the solenoid on the fender well with at least a foot of wire so your color codes on the ends of your extension will be the same and the solder joint will be back a little ways in the wire loom you want at least a foot, then extend the wiring with same gauge wire, preferably automotive grade wiring, soldering each end of the extension at the cut and then at the end of your new wiring, preferably soldering and using shrink tubing on each soldered wire connection in the extension, be sure to match color codes on your extension and then buy a roll of wire loom and cover the extension and tape at intersection with main harness, then route the covered wire to your starter so heat from exhaust will not melt it and make sure you have a tiny bit of play for motor movement and make sure it is secured as well so it will not flop around any and hit a manifold or exhaust pipe, if your solenoid again was on the fender well then you would also need to replace + battery cable that will go from the battery all the way to your solenoid on the starter now, it also will need to be wrapped in wire loom and secured in at least 2 places, maybe 3 with a insulated wire clamp to further deter any short circuits from vibration and or oil compromising wire insulation (softening).
If your new motor has this type starter with solenoid on the starter, then the wire clamps or at least the locations should already be there, they can be routed a number of ways.
Hope this helps, I am thinking some here that know the exact differences may be responding and maybe do a better job at explaining maybe, but I think if you follow this you will be fine
Guy
01-21-2019, 04:16 AM
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Update
[QUOTE=n4ynu1010;6061309]I think I would use the Alternator and starter from the newer 4.9L which I am assuming you are doing, then you would need to identify wiring, Alt. should be close to same, should be a hot (main out +), one for computer/idiot light and one for Volt meter on dash if it has one on the panel, some have a ground or other sensor type, the year you are messing with should be 3 or 4 wire, this is why you need to compare the two on vehicle schematic and match functions or you could use the wrong wire and your charging gauge not work and or idiot light stay on, cut existing plug off and preferably solder and seal with shrink tubing each solder joint for your Alt. Pigtail Plug and you should be good.
Starter should be 2-3 wire but it would depend on whether it has a solenoid on starter, or external solenoid mounted on fender well, if your new new model motor has a starter mounted solenoid and the older motor also had stater mounted solenoid then the swap should be simple, it should be a + battery cable lead and two small (maybe 3) wires all in one harness going to starter location, but again check wiring diagram of both so you can be sure just to be safe, but generally solenoid mounted on starter is 3 wire, one from Battery and two for keying solenoid, in the case the two will generally be different size ring ends for keying so that will be your guide, if both keying wires have same size ring ends it should not matter which terminal you connect them to, but again, check wiring schematics on the two models to be sure unless you are sure from what you know personally.
If your new motor has the solenoid on the starter and your old one had it on the fender well, then trace back the wires that went to the fender mounted solenoid and see if you can remove them from the harness to reach the starter so you can reconnect them to the solenoid that way, if they will not reach then cut the wiring back a foot or so towards the fire wall (you will most likely need to remove the wire from the wire loom carefully (protective split plastic cover), now you you have the two ring ends that went to the solenoid on the fender well with at least a foot of wire so your color codes on the ends of your extension will be the same and the solder joint will be back a little ways in the wire loom you want at least a foot, then extend the wiring with same gauge wire, preferably automotive grade wiring, soldering each end of the extension at the cut and then at the end of your new wiring, preferably soldering and using shrink tubing on each soldered wire connection in the extension, be sure to match color codes on your extension and then buy a roll of wire loom and cover the extension and tape at intersection with main harness, then route the covered wire to your starter so heat from exhaust will not melt it and make sure you have a tiny bit of play for motor movement and make sure it is secured as well so it will not flop around any and hit a manifold or exhaust pipe, if your solenoid again was on the fender well then you would also need to replace + battery cable that will go from the battery all the way to your solenoid on the starter now, it also will need to be wrapped in wire loom and secured in at least 2 places, maybe 3 with a insulated wire clamp to further deter any short circuits from vibration and or oil compromising wire insulation (softening).
If your new motor has this type starter with solenoid on the starter, then the wire clamps or at least the locations should already be there, they can be routed a number of ways.
Hope this helps, I am thinking some here that know the exact differences may be responding and maybe do a better job at explaining maybe, but I think if you follow this you will be fine
Guy[/QUOTE. Thanks for the info I was able to use the 1995 f150 alternator with the harness direct fit wires as well except that little green one got the starter working as well it is just wild with the 302 u run the ground to frame to motor mount and the 4.9l grounds to starter bolt. When I took my 5 speed out of my 4.9l and put it in my flairside 302 auto swap I accidentally ran the ground to starter took me a while to figure it out man the sparks.
Starter should be 2-3 wire but it would depend on whether it has a solenoid on starter, or external solenoid mounted on fender well, if your new new model motor has a starter mounted solenoid and the older motor also had stater mounted solenoid then the swap should be simple, it should be a + battery cable lead and two small (maybe 3) wires all in one harness going to starter location, but again check wiring diagram of both so you can be sure just to be safe, but generally solenoid mounted on starter is 3 wire, one from Battery and two for keying solenoid, in the case the two will generally be different size ring ends for keying so that will be your guide, if both keying wires have same size ring ends it should not matter which terminal you connect them to, but again, check wiring schematics on the two models to be sure unless you are sure from what you know personally.
If your new motor has the solenoid on the starter and your old one had it on the fender well, then trace back the wires that went to the fender mounted solenoid and see if you can remove them from the harness to reach the starter so you can reconnect them to the solenoid that way, if they will not reach then cut the wiring back a foot or so towards the fire wall (you will most likely need to remove the wire from the wire loom carefully (protective split plastic cover), now you you have the two ring ends that went to the solenoid on the fender well with at least a foot of wire so your color codes on the ends of your extension will be the same and the solder joint will be back a little ways in the wire loom you want at least a foot, then extend the wiring with same gauge wire, preferably automotive grade wiring, soldering each end of the extension at the cut and then at the end of your new wiring, preferably soldering and using shrink tubing on each soldered wire connection in the extension, be sure to match color codes on your extension and then buy a roll of wire loom and cover the extension and tape at intersection with main harness, then route the covered wire to your starter so heat from exhaust will not melt it and make sure you have a tiny bit of play for motor movement and make sure it is secured as well so it will not flop around any and hit a manifold or exhaust pipe, if your solenoid again was on the fender well then you would also need to replace + battery cable that will go from the battery all the way to your solenoid on the starter now, it also will need to be wrapped in wire loom and secured in at least 2 places, maybe 3 with a insulated wire clamp to further deter any short circuits from vibration and or oil compromising wire insulation (softening).
If your new motor has this type starter with solenoid on the starter, then the wire clamps or at least the locations should already be there, they can be routed a number of ways.
Hope this helps, I am thinking some here that know the exact differences may be responding and maybe do a better job at explaining maybe, but I think if you follow this you will be fine
Guy[/QUOTE. Thanks for the info I was able to use the 1995 f150 alternator with the harness direct fit wires as well except that little green one got the starter working as well it is just wild with the 302 u run the ground to frame to motor mount and the 4.9l grounds to starter bolt. When I took my 5 speed out of my 4.9l and put it in my flairside 302 auto swap I accidentally ran the ground to starter took me a while to figure it out man the sparks.
01-21-2019, 12:02 PM
#4
The Ground location should not matter, grounded at starter which is directly connected to motor block is just as good as motor mount location, a motor ground is a motor ground, whether at motor mount or starter body bolt, either should be fine, I would do whatever is better for your existing wiring harness to make the swap easier for you, just cannot connect it to + battery lead connection at starter or you will have some serious sparks
Guy
Guy