Replaced Ignition Lock Cylinder - No gauges or radio
#1
Replaced Ignition Lock Cylinder - No gauges or radio
I will preface this by saying that I'm a newbie and an idiot. This is a 93 F150 v6 2wd.
I decided to replace the ignition lock cylinder and my door locks since the seller of my truck had different keys for each. I bought a used ignition cylinder and door lock set. I realized afterwords that I didn't remove it correctly. With the battery still connected, I released the cylinder with the ignition just turned to on not run where the detent first releases. I didn't disconnect the battery, turn it all the way to run, and then remove...
After I replaced it, I could turn it to on, and start the truck, but I had no power to my radio or my instrument panel. All lights and everything else function. I decided to put my original cylinder back in which was a mistake. I started and worked fine with the same power issues. It ended up falling apart in my hands after I tried reinstalling it correctly 3 times and I had to reinstall the used one again. So I'm back to a running truck with no power to the gauges or radio. I did some searching and saw some similar problems. However all of my electronics were working 5 minutes before I changed the cylinder. What did I do and how can I (or somebody less stupid) fix it? All fuses in the panel checked out also. Thanks.
I decided to replace the ignition lock cylinder and my door locks since the seller of my truck had different keys for each. I bought a used ignition cylinder and door lock set. I realized afterwords that I didn't remove it correctly. With the battery still connected, I released the cylinder with the ignition just turned to on not run where the detent first releases. I didn't disconnect the battery, turn it all the way to run, and then remove...
After I replaced it, I could turn it to on, and start the truck, but I had no power to my radio or my instrument panel. All lights and everything else function. I decided to put my original cylinder back in which was a mistake. I started and worked fine with the same power issues. It ended up falling apart in my hands after I tried reinstalling it correctly 3 times and I had to reinstall the used one again. So I'm back to a running truck with no power to the gauges or radio. I did some searching and saw some similar problems. However all of my electronics were working 5 minutes before I changed the cylinder. What did I do and how can I (or somebody less stupid) fix it? All fuses in the panel checked out also. Thanks.
Last edited by S_Mitch; 01-03-2015 at 01:32 PM.
#2
1994 F150 XLT 5.8L 2wd
Sounds like you have somehow disconnected the ON portion of the mechanism. Turn the ignition back past the lock to ACC, does your radio work then? Make sure everything is still connected in the column and that the actuator rod assembly is still functioning. Probe the Gray/Yellow wire in the wire harness, does it get a signal when you turn the key to ON or ACC? Double check all of the fuses, pull each one, both in cab and under hood.
#3
Sounds like you have somehow disconnected the ON portion of the mechanism. Turn the ignition back past the lock to ACC, does your radio work then? Make sure everything is still connected in the column and that the actuator rod assembly is still functioning. Probe the Gray/Yellow wire in the wire harness, does it get a signal when you turn the key to ON or ACC? Double check all of the fuses, pull each one, both in cab and under hood.
#6
Our local lock smith wanted $50 just for keying the door cylinders and I couldn't ever drop the truck off at his shop during his hours. I got this set for $45 and it only took me about 10 minutes to replace the door cylinders after my ignition cylinder circus. If I could do it over again, I would have paid the locksmith and saved on some profanity.
#7
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Mine charged $10. I gave him both keys and he cut one. Not only that but he cut them at what they were supposed to be rather than just using a machine to copy my worn down 19 year old keys.
A good locksmith doesn't need to even see the truck, he just measures the bumps close to the square end so he knows what the door lock sequence is, then he measures the ones at the end to find out what the ignition sequence is, then he cuts a key.
I don't know about the locksmith you went to, but I guess the operative word in the whole thing is a GOOD locksmith.
If they need to see the truck when you already have keys that work, I wouldn't say they really knew what they were doing.
Not that it helps you now, but maybe someone else reading this will benefit.
Main thing is you got your truck working again and you don't have to do that "this key is for the doors, and this key..... " thing anymore.
I remember buying one once and the guy had 3 keys - one for each door and another to start it up.
A good locksmith doesn't need to even see the truck, he just measures the bumps close to the square end so he knows what the door lock sequence is, then he measures the ones at the end to find out what the ignition sequence is, then he cuts a key.
I don't know about the locksmith you went to, but I guess the operative word in the whole thing is a GOOD locksmith.
If they need to see the truck when you already have keys that work, I wouldn't say they really knew what they were doing.
Not that it helps you now, but maybe someone else reading this will benefit.
Main thing is you got your truck working again and you don't have to do that "this key is for the doors, and this key..... " thing anymore.
I remember buying one once and the guy had 3 keys - one for each door and another to start it up.