Wayne4096

Chris_1

iTrader: (1)

You could very well be off a tooth if you didn't understand exactly what you were supposed to be doing. Even if you got it right, you would have to reset your base timing with a timing light after replacing the distributor.

Wayne4096

BLDTruth

Yep sounds like you are 180 degrees out.

Wayne4096

Thanks for the replies. I am still not where I need to be...
I removed and reinstalled the distributor (the new one that started last night when installed 180 degrees out of phase). Now the distributor (rotor) points to the wire connected to cylinder 1 when the timing metal indicator thing and the 10 degrees BTDC mark are aligned (photo included) but I'm back to a "no start" condition. Could I have burnt up a component when I started it (twice) when installed 180 degrees out of alignment?

Quick summary:
New ICM
New wires
New coil
New distributor
Started when the distributor was installed 180 degrees out of alignment

1. ran SEVERELY underpowered
2. smelled some burning smell after 2 mile test drive
3. started again after shutting it off to verify that oil pump shaft was engaged and had oil pressure (confirmed normal oil pressure)

Removed and reinstalled distributor so that timing mark coincides with 10 degrees below top dead center but now won't start

Also, I can confirm (with in-line test light) that I have spark all the way to distributor cap wire (cylinder) #1.

Not giving up but at this point I'm a little out of my depth. Any thoughts?

Wayne4096

If I had not mentioned it earlier, this is a 1995 Ford F150, 2WD, V8 302. It has 67,000 miles on it and leaks a little oil between the engine and the transmission (after reading other threads I realize that not identifying the make, model, etc. is bad etiquette).

kd3pc

I would again install the distributor 180 degrees out from where it is currently - where it ran, allbeit poorly.

Once it starts and runs, I would turn the distributor 10 degrees one way and then 10 degrees the other way to see how bad the timing is off. if it gets "better" I would tighten it down a bit and drive it to and fro under load to see what happens. If it does not get better, then go another 5-10 degrees each direction and see how it idles, or not.

You may be watching the rotor go the wrong way, make sure it is turning the correct direction and the plug wires in the correct order - or it may be out of order, ie a plug wire misplaced, check them all.

Wayne4096

Thanks kd3pc. I'll give that a shot. It will give me some comfort just to hear it turn over again.
I did verify the wires were in the correct order per the diagram in the engine compartment (and when I replaced them, I did so one at a time so that I wouldn't lose track).

Wayne4096

Ok, here's an update. I loosened the bolt that holds down the distributor and tried starting it in what I believe is the correct orientation (rotor pointed toward wire 1 when the timing indicator lines up with 10 degrees BTC). No start (this is where I left off last post). Then I tried turning the distributor a little in both directions but it didn't start either way. Then, per kd3pc's recommendation I pulled the distributor and installed it 180 degrees out of phase and it started (although it didn't sound good). Nevertheless, it was running well enough to stay running while I jumped out and turned the distributor by hand (while running). I could certainly tune it so that it ran "better" but it never really ran well. When I turned it off, there was a faint buzzing sound from the fuel injector area. I can't say this is abnormal because I've never tried to listen for this during normal operation. I did not drive it yet. I'll try that tomorrow. I really appreciate everyone's help but this still bothers me...

When I replaced it the first time, I installed the distributor in the same orientation that the old one was in and it ran but underpowered and we concluded that it was in 180 degrees out of phase. I oriented it "correctly" (rotor toward 1 and the 10 deg BTC mark lined up with timing indicator) and it flat wouldn't start. Uninstalled the distributor and reinstalled it so that the rotor was pointed toward wire #6 when the 10 degree BTC mark lined up with timing indicator and it started again. I'm really confused but I'll let you know how it goes when I try to drive it tomorrow morning. I don't know what to do if it runs severely underpowered again. Also, will running the engine with the distributor in a 180 degree out of phase condition hurt anything else?

kd3pc

as you slide the distributor in to it's hole, there are two possible orientations, as there will be two cycles (rotations) per firing (4 stroke engine) where the timing marks will line up. But only one will let the vehicle start and run properly, assuming that the distributor is OK, the firing order is in sync with the plug wires on the distributor and the spark is in time. The other is "180 degrees out".... IF you have twirled the distributor while it is out of the car, the oil pump drive shaft will not be aligned, similarly if you have bumped the engine over with the distributor out, you will need to align that before re-installing the distributor.

As you slide the distributor in, gently turn the rotor as the distributor hits the boss, so that the oil pump shaft will line up. You will feel the gear sets engage, and if your timing marks are accurate, the rotor should be pointing to number one piston tower, bottom out on the boss, and be inserted in the oil pump drive side.

The faint buzzing after shutting things down is pretty normal, IIRC correctly, my '92 does that. Let's leave it out of the picture for now.

Given the changes, I would make sure that all your plug wires are tightly installed on the plugs and in the cap. If you start it, while dark, you should NOT see any sparks or glowing between wires or plug tops to the head area.

keep us posted.