lower ignition actuator
04-13-2019, 06:46 PM
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lower ignition actuator
Hello all,
Here goes.......1992 F150 XLT...5.0....Auto......Turning the key to run position all the dash lights come on, fuel pump buzzes....all normal......NOW, the odd thing is when i turn it to start position...nothing.....(hold on to that thought)......i removed the ignition switch from the column and move the pin forward and the truck starts and runs like it should. I have removed the column 3 times, the last time i dis-assembled it completely...well almost completely, the upper actuator rod (with the teeth on it that moved by the key) is attached to the lower slider piece in the housing. I suspect the issue is with the lower piece but I can not remove it because ( i think) the metal bar directly above it prevents it from sliding out. It is held in by a pin that it moves on. I didnt extract the pin so i could not get a good look at the part. I suspect that lower slider piece does not overcome the spring in the ignition switch when turned to start position. Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Jaime
Here goes.......1992 F150 XLT...5.0....Auto......Turning the key to run position all the dash lights come on, fuel pump buzzes....all normal......NOW, the odd thing is when i turn it to start position...nothing.....(hold on to that thought)......i removed the ignition switch from the column and move the pin forward and the truck starts and runs like it should. I have removed the column 3 times, the last time i dis-assembled it completely...well almost completely, the upper actuator rod (with the teeth on it that moved by the key) is attached to the lower slider piece in the housing. I suspect the issue is with the lower piece but I can not remove it because ( i think) the metal bar directly above it prevents it from sliding out. It is held in by a pin that it moves on. I didnt extract the pin so i could not get a good look at the part. I suspect that lower slider piece does not overcome the spring in the ignition switch when turned to start position. Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Jaime
04-14-2019, 01:30 AM
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It's rare for the pin between the upper & lower actuators to back out, causing the symptom you describe, but I've seen it IRL twice, and read posts like yours a few times. It's not called out in this diagram, but it's at the Right end of #64, and goes into the slot at the top Left of #61:
(phone app link)
It's VERY difficult to rebuild the column to re-install that pin properly, but it's all labor - no part$. Click this & read the caption:
(phone app link)
An easier (& better IMO) fix is to swap the column as an assembly for one from a later Ford/L/M vehicle (up to maybe 2012) with a better steering wheel and a clock spring that can be replaced (yours doesn't have a clock spring, but you don't want a '94-96 truck column because those clock springs are not available). I like the ~2002 Explorer/Navigator column because it has backlit buttons and its radio buttons can be wired to an aftermarket module to control an aftermarket radio:
(phone app link)
Only ~4 wires need to be spliced to change the connector on your dash harness so the later column plugs in. To disable the later column's air bag, simply leave it UNplugged (NOT cut).
(phone app link)
(phone app link)
It's VERY difficult to rebuild the column to re-install that pin properly, but it's all labor - no part$. Click this & read the caption:
(phone app link)
An easier (& better IMO) fix is to swap the column as an assembly for one from a later Ford/L/M vehicle (up to maybe 2012) with a better steering wheel and a clock spring that can be replaced (yours doesn't have a clock spring, but you don't want a '94-96 truck column because those clock springs are not available). I like the ~2002 Explorer/Navigator column because it has backlit buttons and its radio buttons can be wired to an aftermarket module to control an aftermarket radio:
(phone app link)
Only ~4 wires need to be spliced to change the connector on your dash harness so the later column plugs in. To disable the later column's air bag, simply leave it UNplugged (NOT cut).
(phone app link)
04-14-2019, 02:04 PM
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Hmmmmm...interesting....I might run down to recycle yard and see if I can find one....Thanks
edit:.....I have noticed that the cheap ignition switches from the chain parts stores are verrry stiff going to start position. I am going to get one from Ford dealer and see if it is smoother moving
edit:.....I have noticed that the cheap ignition switches from the chain parts stores are verrry stiff going to start position. I am going to get one from Ford dealer and see if it is smoother moving
Last edited by rojast150; 04-14-2019 at 08:22 PM. Reason: adding info
04-15-2019, 12:14 AM
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You don't have to go to a dealership to get Ford/MotorCraft parts. Check ebay, Amazon, RockAuto, TascaParts... Even some local parts stores carry them. The Ford dealer where I worked buys a lot of Ford parts from the local Parts+Plus franchise.
04-17-2019, 09:20 PM
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Thought I should update my post ... went ahead and got a new upper and lower actuator rod and igi switch from Ford. I have a feeling that it was the igi switch since the actuators i replaced looked pretty good. Soooooo...if anyone finds this in the future.....get a quality part from Motorcraft......Thanks for the advice yall...
Jaime
Jaime