Emergency!!
1996 f150 XLT 5.8l 4x4 e4od automatic transmission
A while back my key broke off in the ignition. I had to pull over and search on my phone just to shut her off. I pulled the lower dash panel, unscrewed the ignition switch and dropped it down, then using the pin sticking out of the top I was able to turn it off. I bought a replacement but could never get it to work. It would switch too far forward and then not engage the pin once the truck started to turn it back off. Since I was very limited on funds, I just kept holding the switch and sliding the pin to turn her on and off. A couple times I got in and she wouldn't turn over at all. I found that there's a gray bracket to the left which seems to be holding the bundles of wiring harnesses in place and that part of the connector that holds it in place had snapped. Once I got it back in place she started right up. Now she won't start and I got a good look and it looks like the connectors have mostly broken. I'm stuck at the library and to make matters worse, I have no cash until the 4th of January to fix it, if even possible.
Can anybody suggest a band aid until I can fix it properly or get her started and turned off. And please, I'm a framer not a mechanic so please don't assume I know anything. Give me full instructions.
Thanks to anyone who can help,
Roman
A while back my key broke off in the ignition. I had to pull over and search on my phone just to shut her off. I pulled the lower dash panel, unscrewed the ignition switch and dropped it down, then using the pin sticking out of the top I was able to turn it off. I bought a replacement but could never get it to work. It would switch too far forward and then not engage the pin once the truck started to turn it back off. Since I was very limited on funds, I just kept holding the switch and sliding the pin to turn her on and off. A couple times I got in and she wouldn't turn over at all. I found that there's a gray bracket to the left which seems to be holding the bundles of wiring harnesses in place and that part of the connector that holds it in place had snapped. Once I got it back in place she started right up. Now she won't start and I got a good look and it looks like the connectors have mostly broken. I'm stuck at the library and to make matters worse, I have no cash until the 4th of January to fix it, if even possible.
Can anybody suggest a band aid until I can fix it properly or get her started and turned off. And please, I'm a framer not a mechanic so please don't assume I know anything. Give me full instructions.
Thanks to anyone who can help,
Roman
1. This shows the broken connector circled in red.
2. This shows the forward connector circled in red.
3. Can I unscrew this for better access? Circled in red.
4. Same as 3, different view. Circled in red.
5. This barely shows the top connectors. Hard to photograph but I believe the same as the bottom, two connectors, forward and back, all broken off, Circled in red.
Last edited by Ro-Ro; Dec 27, 2025 at 11:48 AM.
The gray connector that holds the wire harness bundles on the left hand side of mine broke and now it won't start. It seems like where the connector fits into the switch there's some kind of electrical connection it's not making. I still can get power for windows and radio but nothing going to the starter. If that helps.
That gray shield is what holds the wires in place
When inspecting for pulled out pins you need to remove that gray piece
Meaning it WILL run with it gone if all the pins are inserted into the connector body properly
That PRNDL indicator can be removed by the 5.5mm bolt (7/32) and you also need to remove the loop that connects to the shift tube
That way it can hang down and not get broken while you deal with repairs (they're expensive if still available)
When inspecting for pulled out pins you need to remove that gray piece
Meaning it WILL run with it gone if all the pins are inserted into the connector body properly
That PRNDL indicator can be removed by the 5.5mm bolt (7/32) and you also need to remove the loop that connects to the shift tube
That way it can hang down and not get broken while you deal with repairs (they're expensive if still available)
Thanks for the reply.
I went to start it yesterday and saw the shift lever looked low, like closer to 3 o'clock than 1 o'clock, if you catch my drift. I lifted it up and it must have been in Reverse when I shut her off but the indicator was showing Park. She started right up. The lever is a little loose, and was last year. I found a video showing where to tighten it online but I didn't have any Loc-Tite. I need to get under the dash and try again.
Now what you called "That PRNDL indicator" is what? Is that the one circled in pics 3 and 4? If so, I unscrewed the horizontal nut at one point yesterday but it has a copper wire running through it so I put it right back. You're talking about the 5.5mm or 7/32" bolt that goes through the white bracket into the side, though? I can remove that to drop the ignition switch if I need to?
I'm also unclear what you mean here:
you also need to remove the loop that connects to the shift tube
Thanks for the information, any further help will probably come in handy at some point.
Roman
I went to start it yesterday and saw the shift lever looked low, like closer to 3 o'clock than 1 o'clock, if you catch my drift. I lifted it up and it must have been in Reverse when I shut her off but the indicator was showing Park. She started right up. The lever is a little loose, and was last year. I found a video showing where to tighten it online but I didn't have any Loc-Tite. I need to get under the dash and try again.
Now what you called "That PRNDL indicator" is what? Is that the one circled in pics 3 and 4? If so, I unscrewed the horizontal nut at one point yesterday but it has a copper wire running through it so I put it right back. You're talking about the 5.5mm or 7/32" bolt that goes through the white bracket into the side, though? I can remove that to drop the ignition switch if I need to?
I'm also unclear what you mean here:
you also need to remove the loop that connects to the shift tube
Thanks for the information, any further help will probably come in handy at some point.
Roman
Yes, photo 2 and 3 show that PRNDL indicator
Yes, you pull that screw out and disconnect the little inner wire that runs the indicator
I used a small pair of hemostats and be careful
Yes, you pull that screw out and disconnect the little inner wire that runs the indicator
I used a small pair of hemostats and be careful
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Look up there with a flashlight
Follow that inner wire
It has the loop and the post it goes on is part of the aluminum shift tube
Pulling the gearshift lever down into L makes it easier to see but also easier to break
Follow that inner wire
It has the loop and the post it goes on is part of the aluminum shift tube
Pulling the gearshift lever down into L makes it easier to see but also easier to break
Got it. Thanks for the info. Why such a tiny wire, Henry? Or was this Edsel's doing?
Thanks so much, I really appreciate this. I can actually build a house, but I tell people, if it ain't made outta wood, I can't fix it.
Roman
Thanks so much, I really appreciate this. I can actually build a house, but I tell people, if it ain't made outta wood, I can't fix it.
Roman




