ECM cross reference
#11
When it dies, it will start back up. For some reason when I try to test the truck with engine running, I get nothing. When the test is initiated there is a clicking sound, and I can hear the change in the way it runs, but I get no response from the scanner after that. No engine ID, nothing. With key on engine off, I get 67, then the 1s then 29.
I changed the ACT, and the water temp. Switch. Now the truck doesn't die, it will cough and sputter and barely keep running, and eventually the throttle will kick back in or if I turn the key off and back on I keep the going. Also, it seems like to me, the oil pressure gage starts bugging out when it has the problem. I changed the oil pressure sender also.
I changed the ACT, and the water temp. Switch. Now the truck doesn't die, it will cough and sputter and barely keep running, and eventually the throttle will kick back in or if I turn the key off and back on I keep the going. Also, it seems like to me, the oil pressure gage starts bugging out when it has the problem. I changed the oil pressure sender also.
#12
Senior Member
Sounds like your getting closer. Hang in there. Is this truck running rich? The ect and act works with o2 sensor also. Looks like 67 is a neutral pressure switch failure and air conditioning compressor clutch switch fault. I would test the map sensor also. Have you tested the vac on this truck? Testing vac should tested when ever a engine is not running right.
#16
If it wasn't for bad luck, I'd have none. I found a broken vacuum line. Going from the MAN VAC to the TVS. After fixing that, my starter went out, which is about 2 weeks old. After replacing the starter, the truck wouldn't fire. After about ten minutes if fooling with it, it fired. If it backfires, then there is still a vacuum issue right? All though it only backfires when when the engine is warm. I replaced the MAP sensors in September.
Removing the PIP seems a little hard, is there anyway to test it without removing the distributor? I'm worried ill mess something up.
Removing the PIP seems a little hard, is there anyway to test it without removing the distributor? I'm worried ill mess something up.
#17
Senior Member
The back fire could be a couple of plug wires crossed or a timing issue. Don`t rule out another vac leak also. I`ll post or send you a leak on testing the pip. You have nothing to lost and every thing to gain and I think you can change the pip your self. I try to answer all your questions so try to answer all mine in the posts. Is this truck running rich? Are you resetting the computer? When was the last tune up? When was the last oil change? If the truck is running rich there could be gas in the oil. Take a rubber hammer and smack the cats a couple of times. Has the 02 sensor been replaced? Have you cleaned all the grounds? Test each plug wire with a timing light by the plug. If it has not been tuned up for a while clean the cap and rotor. This will keep you busy.
#20
I'm not sure exactly what running rich means, when I start it, it sounds great, almost purring. Idle sounds good. Since changing the vacuum lines it hasn't backfired. I've only driven it to the store and back though. I think it sounds beefy though, while driving. Kind of like an exhaust problem. In July I changed the spark plugs, plug wires and distributor cap and rotor. One of the clips on the cap doesn't have a tight grip. Also changed the fan clutch at this time. The last oil change was in November. I reset the computer after changing the sensors. I had code 87, that's cleared now. I have not changed the 02 sensor yet. How many are there? The firing order for my truck is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8. I recently bought a timing light with advance. If I am doing it correctly, with the sail turned to10 degrees, the arrow is on the white mark. If this is incorrect please let me know. I am sorry, but I am not quite sure what you mean by smack the cats, what's the cats? I think I have a c transmission. How do I find out for sure?