Correct way to test the coil ?
What is the most efficient and correct way to test the coil on Gen 9 F-150 trucks ?
Here is what I have so far:
1) The small right hand red wire at the coil is the power supply and should be hot
with the ignition key On.
2) The small left hand wire at the coil ( color unknown ) is the spark timing control input
coming from the PCM and ICM. How is this control input tested ?
3) If the red power wire does have power and the control input wire is receiving the
input properly, then detach the large center cable at the coil that connects to the distributor.
Hold a test light near this large center terminal and crank the engine. If the test light does not
light, then the coil is bad.
Is this all correct ? Any better suggestions ?
MANY thanks !
Here is what I have so far:
1) The small right hand red wire at the coil is the power supply and should be hot
with the ignition key On.
2) The small left hand wire at the coil ( color unknown ) is the spark timing control input
coming from the PCM and ICM. How is this control input tested ?
3) If the red power wire does have power and the control input wire is receiving the
input properly, then detach the large center cable at the coil that connects to the distributor.
Hold a test light near this large center terminal and crank the engine. If the test light does not
light, then the coil is bad.
Is this all correct ? Any better suggestions ?
MANY thanks !
What year?
To test the green wire (pip signal) use a test light while cranking the vehicle. It should blink. If you have a timing light, put it on any plug wire and crank, if it lights up, you know the coil is working and you have switching signal.
To test the green wire (pip signal) use a test light while cranking the vehicle. It should blink. If you have a timing light, put it on any plug wire and crank, if it lights up, you know the coil is working and you have switching signal.
Last edited by 90project5.0; Jan 19, 2026 at 01:35 PM.
The above is the quick way
You actually check the coil using resistance measurements
The above is what you do first
In the old days you could use a scope and stress test the coil
That just rapidly fired the coil on the bench of the scope so you could observe it's function
You check that PIP signal on the primary side with a test light, not a timing light
Place the test light on the negative side of the coil, that is where you are looking for the blinking light PIP signal from the "stator: in the distributor
Test the coil with an ohmmeter, DVOM readings around .4 - 1.3 ohms on the primary side; 6000-13000 for the secondary
Watch a few videos of a guy doing it
You also check all 3 terminals to the case (ground) and that should be infinity or open circuit
You actually check the coil using resistance measurements
The above is what you do first
In the old days you could use a scope and stress test the coil
That just rapidly fired the coil on the bench of the scope so you could observe it's function
You check that PIP signal on the primary side with a test light, not a timing light
Place the test light on the negative side of the coil, that is where you are looking for the blinking light PIP signal from the "stator: in the distributor
Test the coil with an ohmmeter, DVOM readings around .4 - 1.3 ohms on the primary side; 6000-13000 for the secondary
Watch a few videos of a guy doing it
You also check all 3 terminals to the case (ground) and that should be infinity or open circuit
Hi Manicmechanic,
Thank you for your good info !
Is this the correct sequence to diagnose a No Spark condition:
1) Attach a test light in between a spark plug and its plug wire.
Crank the engine. If there is no light, then there is a No Spark condition.
2) Back probe the left hand negative PIP control input terminal on the coil
with a test light. Crank the engine. If the test light blinks, then the distributor
camshaft sensor pick-up is correctly sending the PIP signal to the ICM and the
PCM and the PIP signal is correctly being sent to the coil. Now test the coil
for continuity in the primary circuit and the secondary circuit and any short circuits
to the outer case. If you find a problem, replace the coil.
3) If the test light does not blink, then there is no PIP signal.
So, how can we do the rest of the diagnosis to check if the problem is in
the distributor, the ICM, or the PCM ??
THANKS for sharing your know-how !
Thank you for your good info !
Is this the correct sequence to diagnose a No Spark condition:
1) Attach a test light in between a spark plug and its plug wire.
Crank the engine. If there is no light, then there is a No Spark condition.
2) Back probe the left hand negative PIP control input terminal on the coil
with a test light. Crank the engine. If the test light blinks, then the distributor
camshaft sensor pick-up is correctly sending the PIP signal to the ICM and the
PCM and the PIP signal is correctly being sent to the coil. Now test the coil
for continuity in the primary circuit and the secondary circuit and any short circuits
to the outer case. If you find a problem, replace the coil.
3) If the test light does not blink, then there is no PIP signal.
So, how can we do the rest of the diagnosis to check if the problem is in
the distributor, the ICM, or the PCM ??
THANKS for sharing your know-how !
1 = No, you cannot use a test light to check secondary (high tension 40KV juice)
they make spark testers for that that will handle the 40KV
2 = Correct
3 = Correct again. no blinking light means no pip signal, could be a sheared roll pin (distributor shaft not turning) or failed DU30C stator or no power into the TFI module
Not sure what year a gen 9 is unless you specify
The body style and the engine electronics do NOT go together
So, post year if you want to get serious into it, you might end up looking at specific diagrams
they make spark testers for that that will handle the 40KV
2 = Correct
3 = Correct again. no blinking light means no pip signal, could be a sheared roll pin (distributor shaft not turning) or failed DU30C stator or no power into the TFI module
Not sure what year a gen 9 is unless you specify
The body style and the engine electronics do NOT go together
So, post year if you want to get serious into it, you might end up looking at specific diagrams
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Hi Manicmechanic,
Really appreciate your thorough information.
In specific, for a 1993 F-150 5.0 engine and auto trans,
my goal is to compile an efficient troubleshooting sequence for a
No Spark condition. ( FYI: Gen 9 F-150 is 1992 - 1996 )
So, we examine spark at the plug, we then verify that the PIP signal is
reaching the coil, and we can electrically test the function of the coil.
Now comes the hard part: if the coil tests Good but there is no PIP
signal coming into the coil, how can we diagnose the malfunction at
the distributor camshaft position sensor ( pickup ) or in the ICM or
in the PCM ?
Really appreciate your thorough information.
In specific, for a 1993 F-150 5.0 engine and auto trans,
my goal is to compile an efficient troubleshooting sequence for a
No Spark condition. ( FYI: Gen 9 F-150 is 1992 - 1996 )
So, we examine spark at the plug, we then verify that the PIP signal is
reaching the coil, and we can electrically test the function of the coil.
Now comes the hard part: if the coil tests Good but there is no PIP
signal coming into the coil, how can we diagnose the malfunction at
the distributor camshaft position sensor ( pickup ) or in the ICM or
in the PCM ?
If I can Find my 1993 PCED I will post the no start due to no spark pages
We all learned shortcuts like a TFI module substitute, and we carried spart known good coils out to the parking lot
We all learned shortcuts like a TFI module substitute, and we carried spart known good coils out to the parking lot







