hertfordnc

Yup, most electrical problems on old vehicles are bad grounds. And I will crawl under it visit that but I'm not feeling it at this point.

Jumping the car does nothing to improve the ground for the starter if there is corrosion at a ground point it will still be there even if a second vehicle is providing power.

I did put jumper cables from the negative post to the chassis and then to the engine to create a solid ground. No improvement.

Still, this problems baffles everyone who has tried to figure it out.

It has been this way for a few years. The PO changed everything and nothing worked. He only used it as a yard truck so he put up with it.

My thought now is that one of the fixes was bad. like they got a new starter that was bad from the REAMAN and so it didn't fix the problem they moved on an tried something else. By they I mean a very reputable old school garage in our town. Not some kid plugging in a scanner.

I'll keep you posted.

hertfordnc

THey did change the coil. What is the PIP sensor and ECT sensor';

broncojunkie

Nothing that would cause it to turn over slowly.

Chris_1

iTrader: (1)

I'm sure you've thought of it, but it kinda sounds like a dirty connection at the battery.

hertfordnc

I've been doing lots of research and I'm closing in on some possibilities.

First, when i say hard starting I mean that it turns slowly or not at all. The trucl always start instantly if it gets a few good turns.

It only has 66000 miles and it shows. It was garaged for much of its life, there is almost no corrosion any where.

I read where this problem could be caused be leaky injectors or a clogged catalytic converter.

That really makes sense.,

Assuming injecots, what's the best way to diagnose and treat the problem?

Thanks

Dave

hertfordnc

Ok, i think i have confirmed the injector leaking into the cylinder

I switch to the forward tank which does not work- fuel pump does not come one. I cranked the truck, it cranked continuously and evenly.

Then i switch tanks again, engaged the fuel pump and the engine dragged like one cylinder was filled with liquid.

Chris_1

iTrader: (1)

Put a fuel pressure gauge on it. koeo you should get close to max pressure, then it should hold that for at least a couple minutes. If it bleeds down fast that would be one more thing to go with your theory.
Some injector cleaner in the fuel tank can sometimes help, it's usually just dirt on the seat of the injector. But maybe it just wants new ones.

hertfordnc

So in google around abour this problem someone suggested leaky injectors causing hydraulic lock. Seems like that would take a lot of fuel but i did an experiment.

The truck has dual tanks but one does not work. That allowed me to starve the engine by switching to the dead tank.

When i do this, the truck cranks vigorously and then it starts when i engage the good tank.

Then i looked at the plugs, i removed one at a time and turned the engine. The engine stayed the same, dragging not turning, until i got to cylinder five and six. Then it would crank properly and start.

So, i think i have a diagnosis- back two injectors are leaking badly enough to cause hydraulic lock.

Any problem with that theory?

Manuellabour247

Sounds like a good place to start.

AbbadonTD

Looks like you found your problem, but another cause of this exact problem, wont restart when WARM, is the thermostat.

A bad thermostat will actually keep it from turning over, if the car sits for 10-15 minutes, starts right back up.

Another cause of this is not enough coolant, but I hope you checked that! if an air bubble hits the thermostat, it can do this. It usually stalls the car out and then it wont restart for a few minutes.