Hello, I cannot seem to get into the account I initially posted this problem on so here is my updated diagnosis.

Note: front fuel tank doesn't work, rear fuel gauge doesn't work, and I could tell the rear pump was going, hence my need for repair.

I got a new fuel pump for the rear fuel tank of my truck. I connected the wires from the truck's harness and spliced them to the wires for the new pump, per the wiring diagram. But, I found two large black wires from the vehicle side that had been somehow intermingled into the wiring for the previous fuel pump. I didn't connect them at first (just spliced the wires per the diagram) and attempted to start the truck. I got a crank, no start situation there. After further investigation into this issue, I found that the previous owner had spliced two regular extension cords straight from the battery to the rear fuel tank. Which 1 - would explain why the front tank didn't work (no power!) and 2- why the truck didn't turn over when I tried to start it. I reconfigured some wires at the pump and put together what I assumed was the "correct" (rigged up) configuration for it to function, and still got a crank, no start. I then realized after testing wires with a multimeter that the wires at the pump had no power. So, I tested components further up to see if something else had blown when I attempted to start it initially. Fuses were good, but no power was at the selector switch. I'm charging the battery via a trickle charger currently to ensure that isn't a factor in this. But would anyone more knowledgeable have any idea what could be causing this?

Two large wires I was referring to in my left hand.

Wiring I was going off of for new pump.

 

Did you check the inertia switch? I'm pretty sure it's behind the passenger's side kick panel on a '95.
If you're in doubt about matching new pump wiring to the truck's wiring harness, rock Auto has diagrams for the pumps they sell.
Lamp cord to the fuel pumps... It's crazy what people do...

 

I don't know if you're aware or not, that when you cycle the key to the run position, you'll only have fuel pump power for about 2 seconds, unless you jumper the diagnostic connector under the hood.

 

I don’t have any fuel pump power at all. I believe when I initially attempted to start it after I wired it per the diagram, I blew something up front. After further research, I think I’ll try to bypass the fuel pump relay and see if I get power. If I do, it may be my PCM that blew. If I don’t, it’s probably some wiring issue somewhere from the fuse to the selector switch.

 

The inertia switch is in the circuit between the fuel pump relay and the selector switch.
If your year of truck has the diagnostic plug near the driver's side fender, you can jumper "A" and "E" to power the fuel pumps constantly, when the key is in the run position.