Samantha Hollo

So long story short I'm not great with mechanics but I can usually figure out the basics. I went to change out the ignition switch at the base of the column, didn't know at the time there was the little rod that had to go back in, but even without the rod in there I still had no power to any accessories, blinkers, warning lights, fuel pump, anything. The switch has since been put on properly but still nothing and even when bypassing and starting the truck with a screwdriver btwn posts on the solenoid it will not stay running. Any ideas? I was fearing the computer was fried, I changed it out a year or so ago. I also don't have power to some of my fuse box.

Chris_1

iTrader: (1)

First place to look is at the ignition switch. It could be faulty, improperly installed or out of adjustment.
As far as the fusebox, compare what does and doesn't have power with what should have power all the time (hot at all times) like the interior light, power door locks, headlights, things like that as opposed to those things that usually only get power when the key is on - typically power windows, turn signals, heater motor and such.
That would tell you that power isn't or is getting through the ignition switch to feed the fuses that are not "hot at all times".
If it cranks over crossing the posts at the fender solenoid, you have power and the starting circuit is at least mostly functional. The tiny push on wire on that solenoid gets power from the ignition switch when you turn the key to start which activates that solenoid. You can remove that wire and put 12 volts to that post to see if the solenoid is working; if so the starter circuit is good and the problem is not at that end. To verify you can use a test light on that little wire and see if it gets power when you have someone turn the key to 'start'.
If there is no power there then the problem lies back at the ignition switch - or the circuit going to the solenoid (includes the transmission neutral start switch or clutch pedal switch).
Also you should get power to one side of the wire plugged into your coil (usually the one closest to the fender on a v8) when you turn the key to 'on'. If not you're looking back to the ignition switch again.
That's the basic diagnostic run through; hope it's clear. See where you get with that and we'll try to walk you through if you don't find the issue.

Beanmachine

Hi there Chris 1, I have searched this Forum to find a similar situation to my 95 4.9. I was having issues accelerating. I would press the gas pedal and the truck would bog down sometimes worse than others. I finally replaced the Ignition switch and rid of that problem, but the second I did it, both power windows stopped working, but truck runs better. Any ideas?

Steve83

The ig.sw. has nothing to do with how WELL the engine runs - only IF it runs. This shows how the PW circuit works:

(phone app link)


You can probably find more-specific wiring diagrams here:
http://www.bbbind.com/tsb-wiring-diagrams-database/

But you should invest in a Haynes, after reading this caption:

(phone app link)

Beanmachine

Steve so I checked fuses. There was NO power going to fuse or window switch. So I went back to part store and got a motorcraft ignition switch. Viola! Windows work. Just plugged it in. I was so happy I installed everything now truck won't start!
I put in the old ignition switch, truck starts. Power windows work. Put unfortunately that switch is broke where the bold goes. What is my issue? I went through 2 off brand switches that run the truck, but don't power the windows and a motorcraft same model # won't start the truck.

Any ideas? Your help would be greatly appreciated!

Steve83

That's really confusing to follow what you're saying. Pics might help.

But it sounds like the truck has wiring problems. If you can't find them, take it to a stereo/alarm shop - they're typically much better (and cheaper) with vehicle wiring than mechanics.

Beanmachine

Sorry about that. I found the problem. There was a loose wire from the bundle that attaches to the ignition start switch.
I found it by just moving one wire at a time. I'm going to sodder it when my sodder kit arrives. For now I shoved a paperclip and it's making contact.

I truly appreciate your help and that's a great idea about the stereo shop. I didn't think of that. Thanks to you I'm in the process of purchasing a used Haynes book!

You contribute alot to this community and it is greatly appreciated!!

Beanmachine

Hey Steve. I really need your help. I thought everything was OK, but I'm lost. I drove the truck to work this morning down the highway 30 min drive everything was OK. Did PT then drove it to get breakfast. Same issue bogging when accelerating I shift to next gear then it's ok for a few seconds a little higher rpms then it boggs again.

I purchased a fuel pressure kit. Checking that today after work. Funny thing is sometimes it doesn't it sometimes its fine. Drove an hour the other day it was fine. If it help I tried to get codes and it was Knock sensor and SPOUT ground open. My SPOUT cable has a factory plug so I don't think that's it.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Steve83

We have nothing to go on other than what you type, so take a few extra moments to proofread & correct your posts. Proper spelling (e.g., soLder; not soDder) & punctuation help convey information better. Seeing ALL the truck's details with each of your posts also makes it easier for us to help you. We may read 200 posts about 100 different F150s each day, so we can't remember your truck like you can. Click this, read the caption, study your truck, and put its details (in plain text, or standard abbreviations) into your signature:

(phone app link)


That caption contains links that explain common abbreviations, and how to post pics, including an avatar of your truck for your profile. You should also put in your location, since someone local might be able to help you.

Codes are only helpful if you prepare the truck correctly before reading them out, and then post the number AND the complete definition for each one.

(phone app link)


But a code isn't a magic bullet - they still require diagnosis. And often there is no code relating to such a subtle & intermittent symptom as you're describing. Begin by catching up all the maintenance that's overdue since that alone can produce your symptom. You can use this list until the Haynes arrives:

(phone app link)

Beanmachine

Ok Steve, thanks for clarifying that with me. I thought it was "soDder" for the longest time. I have completed my signature (don't have picture yet), and will diagnose a potential fuel problem later, by use of a fuel pressure tester.
The CEL was not on during the time of reading, but it had flashed while driving and having those symptoms of bogging. Below is the current maintenance I have done since owning the truck (one week).

Spark plugs and wires replaced - Motorcraft (both) .044 gap
Distributor cap and rotor -Duralast
Coil Pack - Duralast
Oil and filter change w Oil additive
Air filter replaced
PCV valve replaced
Differential oil changed 80w90
Flushed radiator
New MAP sensor
New ICM (Ignition control module)
New Ignition starter switch
New Key ignition switch