memoniz

In reading in the Haynes book, in section 5.7, they talk about the PCM module check that is related to the 18 code. Essentially it's saying to do some tests that either result in ICM failure or PCM problems. I would try those tests or you can take your ICM to Autozone or someplace that does it.

Dulciusexasperis

It has to be pcm problem then... that is one brand new unless they gave me a bad one. Thanks for replying

Dulciusexasperis

So I'm getting confused about this spout connector, read online from ASE tech that if that is not working properly (shorted) or something to that nature the engine will not run. which is my problem. Also he mentions during a test that if you do not have spark at your ignition coil (which I do not) he says try disconnecting it to see if you get spark then. Disconnect from? I found my connector down by my dizzy and it has a little cap on it..... that's all. Is this thing supposed to be plugged in somewhere? Can't really find anything online that really answers this question.

memoniz

The spout connector is a little "fuse" like looking thing that I think should be near the distributor on your model. It's a couple of short wires that is linked by that "fuse" that lets the PCM to read something. The truck can run without it. When you check the timing, it's supposed to be pulled and replaced after. In my '96, it's a grey piece. Just pull it out from the wires and it will be disconnected. If we are talking about the same part, that cap is the spout connector.

Dulciusexasperis

Right one wire runs out of the icm goes to this spout connector and from the spout connector to the pcm. When I first saw it I was gonna be pissed if this whole time it was a fuse. But I pull the cap off and there's nothing. So with the little "fuse" cap thing must close the circuit to the pcm.

Dulciusexasperis

Another thing I'm just now realizing... when cranking the motor my tach is not working it dosent move at all. Since the engine code I got was for no spout signal/tachometer if these two things run on the same circuit could it be tach fuse is just blown? I don't I'm just spit balling here.

Forge-World-FORD

Bad one or wrong one. Not sure about your year but if I remember correctly the fender mounted ICMs come in two colors, one that works for the truck and one that doesn't. Black vs grey I think the colors are. Not sure if your year had something similar to that problem

memoniz

Forge-World-Ford could be right, don't underestimate the power of crappy parts. You seem to be dealing with an electrical problem and one false connection or a problem not solved can cause a part to go bad again. I would run the diagnostic tests again to make sure everything you have done is still working right. I found new ICM's are not that reliable. I would hate for you to keep on going deeper to find out it's something you replaced once.

My truck doesn't have a tach, so I don't know if that could be a problem or a symptom.

Dulciusexasperis

I'm right there with you. I pulled the new icm. I'm taking both the old one and new to autozone for testing. From the haynes manual if you plug in a test light to the negitive terminal on the ignition coil. With the key on test light should come on. Which it does. Next step is to crank the engine the test light should turn on and off as it is receiving the switching signal (ground to open) that allows the coil to send spark to the cap. When cranking mine the test light remains on. That indicates it is not receiving the switch signal which come from the pip and icm. Both I've replaced maybe the pip was bad all along but since I replaced the icm first. The new icm is junk and that's why I'm getting the same results.