SimaNole

I've sealed the cowl with waterproofing tape and had the front window replaced, but it looks like water is still coming in from the hood latch release cable boot, which is cracked on the engine bay side, and the sliding rear windows where they meet in the middle. Are there quick fixes for these items already?

It's a 1994 Supercab XLT

Steve83

For the cable, I'd start with RightStuff:


(phone app link)

For the window, you need to be more specific about the exact leak location, and the kind of window (factory or aftermarket).


(phone app link)

Pics might help, and all the truck's details need to be in your signature:


(phone app link)

SimaNole

Sorry for the delayed response, but the window appears to be original Carlite brand windows.

Also, I think I might use butyl tape and see how that goes for the firewall leak. Any reason why that might not work?


Taped up for now, but the leak is where the windows meet.

Steve83

Butyl tape is messy, and it stays messy forever. But it will probably work, if you get the area clean enough for it to adhere.

That window might stop leaking if you clean out the track drains, and replace any hardened/cracked seals. It's very easy to pull it out of the truck, disassemble, clean, repair, reassemble, & install. Finding parts might be tricky, though. Read this & the NEXT few captions in this photo album:


(phone app link)

SimaNole

It looks like butyl tape is working for now. Time will tell. Leaks in the front have stopped!

I ended up trading my window for a solid piece and am in the process of cleaning the rubber seal before reinstalling. I hit it with a wire brush and vinegar, but there's still some gunk in the window and body channels. Would you happen to have any suggestions? The vinegar made the rubber produce an oily black residue. I don't want to stick anything down and expand the rubber unnecessarily.

Steve83

Vinegar is an acid - use only water & detergent (like Dawn or PurplePower/SimpleGreen) to clean the rubber seal.

SimaNole

Just wanted to let you know I fixed all my leaks. Interior is back together finally! Thank you for all your help.

Steve83

What exactly did you find & do?

SimaNole

Okay so the rear window seal that came with the window ripped when I installed it. The rubber was obviously too dry for my rough installation. The replacement rubber was great, but was smaller than OEM and left a gap at the bottom and bottom corners of the exterior. At that point the need for The Right Stuff was evident and once I put in a small bead the leaks stopped. It's the same color as the seal and no one will ever notice. It's great.

As for the front leaks, there was a nut missing at the bottom of one of the harness brackets. Once replaced, one leak stopped. The horn, which was not even hooked up, was removed and the bracket holes covered with weather seal foil tape. Those holes were leaking too. That's on top of the replaced leaking windshield and fully gutted and resealed cowl. This truck was a mess!

Onto the airbag code and finicky ignition.

Steve83

The factory horns mount with 1 screw to the core support under the battery - not to the firewall where it could ever leak into the cab.