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I am guessing after today that my Canister is defective. I used air to clean out the vent lines back to the fuel tanks. Both tank gas caps were closed and when I opened each one of them, they were under pressure so that tells me the lines back to the tanks are good. The purge valve is good and electrical and vacuum is good. I am beginning to think it is the charcoal canister. I tried to pass air thru it but it was restricted, both forward and backward. So, I am looking at that. I did clean it out last week thinking it was good enough but, it was not really full air flow...so I suspect maybe the canister it the culprit at this point since I see nothing obvious. pumps work fine and each operates individually, each tank has the correct amount of fuel usage and none fills the other. The one thing that caught my eye recently was the idea that when the fuel pump clicks on and off frequently at the pump, this is due to a clogged vapor reclamation system, i.e., purge valve, lines and canister clogging. The canister seems to be it. Thinking outloud.....:
Most of the actuators are powered by the EEC PWR relay - the EEC grounds them to operate them.I'm not sure how you were testing what. Post pics & read this caption:
I applied 12 V from batt directly to the Purge Valve and it released the vacuum and that was good. I made sure that 12V was applied via the connector harness and that was good. I applied 12V on/off to the purge valve to simulate the PCM control and that operated fine. I cleaned the charcoal canister and the air flow thru the canister was almost nonexistent. That is all I did after doing a visual and making sure there are no fuel vent pipe leaks....
I used the front and rear tank fuel down to the point that they needed to be refilled. So, I started to try and fill the rear tank first, but it would not fill as the gas pump kept clicking off so I tried to fill the front tank. The front tank allowed me to fill it up. So I went and tried to fill the rear again and it allowed me to fill the rear. I filled the rear part way. Then drove home and parked it outside. Got up this morning and before I got to the truck I smelled the fumes. Yup, the front tank had fuel dripping form it. SO, I AM GUESSING THAT THE REAR TANK VAPOR VENT IS THE PROBLEM. I inspected all mech parts, lines, pumps work fine, fuel caps are good, the EVAP canister seems to work, the EVAP canister purge valve works fine, and I can only figure at this point it is the rear tank vent valve. Thinking out load today. Drop the rear tank instead of raising the bed seems the right solution. Thinking out loud again?
You're going to drop a full/overflowing tank? I hope you have some fire extinguishers, a good floor jack with a transmission adapter, and someone to at least watch you/call for help.
Rear tank is almost empty at this point. Front tank will be almost empty soon as well. When the tanks get low there is no overflow or dripping from either tank. Most likely from what I am gathering thru other threads it may even be a fuel sending unit check valve in the front tank? But just need to figure out the real problem before I blatantly start replacing parts/pieces. Best outcome is really to replace both front and rear fuel systems, i.e., tanks, FDM, vents, and be done with it.
Just light a match and clear out the entire area of fuel vapor all at once, then start over again.
Alrighty, found a tree to put a chain fall on...nice big oak..branches extend out about 25 feet. That is step 1; Step 2 was to put some PB blaster or some such on the 6 bolts that hold the bed to the frame. Step 3 is to let the tank area and work area dry out and no fumes around the frame or floor area. Step 4 cut/chisel those 6 bolts and detach the bed from the frame and lift the be off. Then see what we have to work with and replace.....sounds about right...
Fuel Tanks and Pumps to be replaced - package or piecemeal?
Well, I built a frame and use some straps and lifted the bed off the truck. I have a great view of what needs to be done. The big question I have for you guys/gals is should I buy tanks and pumps separately or buy them already packaged together? Is there a better place that sells pumps that always work and do not have float or sending problems or fuel pumps crap out within months? Yeah, I know I can remove the bed again, but would rather not have that option. Just as soon replace once. I have attached the front and rear tank pictures and they are grody. The fuel pumps have alot of rust around the insert and each vapor vent rubber grommet is splitting and very loose. I just as soon order the stuff and get it done. So, better to buy packaged together or separate parts? And where do you suggest? Rear tank; vapor vent grommet splitting and very lose. Front tank; grody and rusty around the fuel pump insert. Alot of topical rust on both tanks
Before condemning those tanks, WASH them. Thoroughly. A few times. Garden hose first; pressure-washer if you think you can get away with it. Spend some time on the fuel line quick-connectors - get ALL the mud out of them. Use a wire brush to break up the thick rust & hardened mud. Once it's clean & dry, spray all the fasteners with penetrating oil (avoid the rubber parts).
Very few companies offer a complete tank (because there are so many configurations), so the ones that do have no competition, and no reason to put the best parts in them. A new tank almost can't go bad (for decades), so I'd consider a cheap tank. But don't skimp on the pump (which can be had separately, or inside an FDM, or with that & the tank plate & tubes, or with all that & the level sender). Regardless where you buy it, Ford/MotorCraft is the best (& expensivest). Bosch is OK; I'd take a chance on AC Delco or other name-brands; DO NOT BUY Spectra or Airtex pumps. The level sender can be cleaned & reused, and so can the float if it's not leaking (some are foam, and can't sink). So don't reflexively buy them - check if they're needed first. When you open the tank, the plate O-ring will probably be swollen & too large to re-install. But if you leave it in a warm, ventilated spot for an hour or so, it'll shrink back to the correct size.
Shop Amazon, eBay, RockAuto, TascaParts, BroncoGraveyard, LMC Truck, local parts stores & dealerships... I also like buying at local junkyards, but if yours are full of vehicles as rusty as that one, it may not be an option for you.
I think I will do some cleaning while it is sitting in the garage; then when I have to remove things/heavy duty cleaning I will move the truck outside next to the garage to free up the room. Still fuel in the tanks at this point. Take my time in cleaning and removing the few gallons left in them before I do major stuff. Yeah, I did some quick checking and saw the packages for tank/fuel pumps and some are very good pricing, then I looked at some of the components and Spectra is made in China and craps out the most. Going that route would take $100 to $200 off what I would want, but I would rather spend for quality at this point and not skimp because of cost. Delphi seemed to pop up and PowerCo. I saw motor craft was $$$$. Will go with the separate package at this point instead of combination systems. Sort of looks unique without the bed. The truck was used as a boat hauler for the first 8 years before I bought it in 2001. The rear end seems to have more rust than the mid and front end sections. Well, onward and upward.
10-16-2018, 05:12 PM
The truck was used as a boat hauler for the first 8 years before I bought it in 2001. The rear end seems to have more rust than the mid and front end sections. Well, onward and upward.