Toid

I m also hindered by being incompetent.
Im feeling my way along.
Hehe

Big B's FX4

Lol, it takes a bitt to get used to how to post pics here. I still screw it up every now and again. If you're uploading from another site then you'll need to find the BBCode (should start with [IMG]), copy and past it into your reply. If you do a search on here I think there's a good step by step how to.

4x91

im in the process of doing this, check my build thread as i progress

2.5itim

Do you have a build thread somewhere?

4x91

its in my signature. i abandoned it as it would cost more than i wanted when i didnt have all the lumber and would need to seal it too

Scharft

First I'll apologize for crossing over sections/threads, I know this is for older trucks but when I saw the DIY wood bed floor and I haven't been able to find a thing like it I like to get your opinion.

I have a 2015 F150 King Ranch and have entered into a couple of car and truck shows and the one thing on older trucks that I love are the beautiful wood beds.

So this is my attempt to replicate a nice wood bed on my 2015.

I'm using tounge and groove boards with cross boards under it, it lifts it by 1 7/8". I'll be using a red oak stain with several coats of high gloss varnish to,give it a mirror finish.

Here are a couple of pics of the first day, tomorrow I'll stain and give it a day to make sure its the shade I'm looking for.

Toid

Wow. Nice look, so far.
I like the solid wood (no trim strips) design. Got me thinking... Hmmm
I've been bombarded with upholstery work on the side and trying to get the AC going right in the ole girl...
I am having trouble with the wormy red oak boards I have. After planing them the dust is compacted into the plenteous worm tracks. Getting it out is nightmarish. I thought the tracking would be pimp-tabulous, but I may have to back up and come at it differently.

Scharft

Thanks

Total cost for wood was 12 x (6"x8' tounge and grove boards $10.00 a board) 1× 4"x8' $8.00 a board aND one trim board to cover the ends $12.00.
.
So less,than $ 150 for all the wood

I have the stain already no cost there, but expect to have a $100 cost for varnish, really want it to shine.

I'll keep posting progress if no one objects.

memoniz

Like what you are doing to your truck. I don't know if you have some wood working experience, but I noticed you are using pine. That is fine and dandy, but it does not stain evenly. I suggest using a wood conditioner or water to open the pores and then stain with a gel stain if you want an even coat. Also, I would use a Spar urethane for a top coat. It would withstand the weather better. If you are familiar with woodworking, then sorry for buttin' in and your doing a nice job.

Toid

On the pine front, my concern would be softness.
I have some milled OOOOLLLD pine. Needs to be surfaced. It's harder than "store" wood, but not as hard as the oak.
I also have a tip, if you'd like one.
The pine absolutely will take stain poorly, BUT assuming the pine is dry, as in kiln dried and, well, kept dry... I use Laquer based sanding sealer to achieve a level surface. Sand smooth then apple automotive (2k) clear coat. The pimpitude comes in here. You can add a little tinting color into the initial coat of clear, or even a little pearl. Take time to do a spray-out on scraps, because too much tint will begin to effect a "color coat" and obscure your grain... a little goes a long way. Try to do your tinting on the first med/wet coat of clear, it'll add depth as opposed to tinting every coat of clear. After bout 3 wet coats, you have some purdy wood. You can even bust out some compound and buff it, (although cleaning it out of the dips where the T&G comes together would stink) if necessary. For a REALLY pretty piece of wood, you can "burn" the grain before you seal it, then back sand as much of the char off as you'd like. If you've never done this, YouTube it.
I build guitars and have dealt with pine and poplar (tele bodies) for years. Stain & dye issues with the wood can be resolved by other methods, if you can dig em up.