okc lube man

I'm with you guys. Trannys seem to be somewhat of a mystery.
Should I just take it to a tranny shop just to find out what they say?
If it needs part swapping or rebuild I believe I will go down that road myself.

okc lube man

Took truck to Amoco today. They told me my problem was not transmission. Suggested fuel or ignition problem. Pumps, filter, check valves, fpr, are all new. Injectors have been tested and clean. New dizzy, coil. The plugs and wires have been replaced. Should I check compression?

The plugs are not to spec because for some reason the threads were not long enough. The ones that I put in were platinum and that has been at least 5 years and 30k miles back. Problem just started in the last months or so.

The last thing I changed was MAP sensor. I am not getting any codes.
Anybody got anything for me? Please

Lowrance

Also interested. My 96 has the same issue 213k on odometer. New plugs, wires, dizzy, ICM, and PCM, along with oil change since 1/1/16. Issue hasn't got any better

koja7296

Four gears , plus torque converter lock up. Sounds like it's shifting too soon and lugging the engine. May be the engine is miss firing when lugging. My old '96 with the 4.9L straight six used to do that when it was condensation in a cracked distributor cap.

koja7296

I would also check compression , but first check fuel pressure. Buy one of those Chilton manuals for it. They are pretty helpful when diagnosing problems.

okc lube man

I am sure that shift points would be different depending on how much foot you put into it, however what would average shift points be? The latest to happen is that my OD cancel light is on solid. Can not get it to go off. Getting a koeo 631 transmission overdrive cancel light circuit failure ( I think that is what it is)

At this point I am wandering if the switch is bad and it has been causing problems all along, and now the light is shorted on. IDK

eyesman2

There is a plug connector on the passenger side right behind the cat and a heat shield..this is a part that fails a lot...good news is that you buy a new connector off ebay and splice it in for about 30 bucks..the wires get melted together and cause a lot of problems ..like hard shifts and such..most tranny shops wont even check for this as they want to sell you a tranny..my 2 cents

eyesman2

https://cobratransmission.com/repair...FYeFaQod7GAKeQ..looks like this

Hankster1958

Look towards your EGR valve. the operating range you're feeling that slight "pulsing or missing" is the range the EGR is working in. My 91 5.0 does something similar .. at "light cruise".. you can feel a slight "chugging" feeling in the driveline... this is the ERG kicking in... how to test if that's it? Unscrew the coupler under the EGR... block it with a 3/4" washer with a very small hole wrapped in foil to block the egr off. DO NOT UNPLUG IT. Drive and see if the sensation is gone. If blocking it works.. you can leave a washer in there to cut the EGR flow.. this will lessen the sensation/feeling and make it "tolerable" .

okc lube man

I am the worst! I find the problem after forum dialogue and move on to the next.

The tranny shop shop I took it to said basically the same thing.

My fix was to take ale a piece of light gauge steel framing material from a job site and fashion it the shap of the gasket and drill a small hole in it. I used tin snips. It wasn't pretty, but it worked. I used a gasket on each side of it sandwiched between egr and intake. That did seem to remedy that issue.

The old truck seems seems to be running pretty decent now. It does have a little rough idle, but no codes. Maybe just the age.

Or is it the IAC?