danielruss88

Hi,

I need a little help please. I was trying to change over the oil pan (drain plug threads gone) for an inspection. This has escalated into an oil pump change and connecting rod bearing change as well (I got the bearings 7 years ago when I brought the car and didn't get around to doing them until now ... ). The problem I am having is mounting the oil pump drive shaft into the distributor boss. The most success I had was with feeding a vacuum hose through the distributor shaft, attaching it to the oil pump drive shaft and pulling it upward. However when I pulled it off, it wedged between the the distributor boss and the distributor hole wall. I can't quite get it to align with the oil pump in place. I am planning to take it off again tomorrow and try again... been at it for 2 days and had the oil pan on/off 3 times now. Any tricks to install the pump shaft? Seems like a bad design to me. There has to be an easy way.

A few things I have noticed during the install (for people that are trying to do this):

1. You actually don't have to jack up the transmission/engine that far to get the oil pan out. The bolts don't need to come out of the transmission cross member. I jacked everything to the max the first time and managed to get the transmission jammed sideways and later couldn't get the transmission mount in. If that happens, make sure the parking pawl isn't engaged, take off the transmission mount and then you can sort of guide it in place. I had to beat the transmission mount off when this happened. I was stuck for a bit on this one for a while.

2. You don't need to unbolt the pick up tube to get the pan out. I pulled it out later to clean it.

3. If you had cork gaskets at some point and changed them without removing the pan in full (as I have done a year ago...), the bits will be inside the pan and stuck in the pick up tube. There was heaps of rubbish in the old pan... I don't recommend doing it that way.

4 The Felpro one-piece gaskets are very difficult to install if you don't have those plastic studs. I threw mine out when I did the gasket a year ago... really regret it. The trick is to install one side without the pan rails with 2 bolts, then do the pan rail on the other side, then take the bolts on the other side out and do the other pan rail. It's impossible to get the gasket, oil pan and the pan rails to align at the same time without the studs. I have no idea how this job is even possible with the 3 piece gaskets.

5. Pulling the engine is probably easier. Unfortunately I have a steep driveway, not much space and would also have to take my bullbar off









I had this exhaust piece custom made. It's easy to slide out. If you have the original cat converters in this spot, I think the job might be even more difficult.



Rod bearings after 470,000 Km (~ 300,000 miles). This car runs straight gas, and I am not sure if the original owner ran gas specific oil before I got it. Corrosion might be a factor. They look pretty worn, but still do 40psi oil pressure at hot idle. I am a bit suspicious of the copper, but I've replaced spun bearings with success before. Hoping it works.


Cheers,
Daniel.

danielruss88

Finally got it done.

Turns out the oil pump shaft drive rod was bent and I had to get a new one. I guess I bent it with the crankshaft when I installed it incorrectly and tried to run it.

Engine sounds different now and much quieter. Didn't expect that. I guess connecting rod bearings are a good preventative maintenance. I hope it holds up.