Engine Rebuild/Overhaul Parts List
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Engine Rebuild/Overhaul Parts List
Ok, so over the winter I've been saving money and collecting parts for a 351w roller build, the weather is finally shifting in my part (the flat part) of Canadia so the time is coming to actually start doing work. I have a a few of the more high dollar parts collected already but I want to make a list online I can easily refer to instead of a million cumpled up pieces of paper with chickenscratched price guestimates.
So to get things started, here's what I have purchased so far with prices in CA dollars:
So here's what's left to purchase:
That's all that comes to mind on the parts side of it, feel free to mention anything I may have forgotten or issues with parts chosen. For sake of ease, all parts will be ordered through Rockauto where available, Jegs or Summit ebay stores (combined orders), even if a part is cheaper somewhere else, shipping and import charges to Canada add up quickly. There are more things I know I could add (maf upgrade [ordered fiveology, 07/17/18], wideband o2, fuel system upgrades), but they don't really limit the ability to start putting this together. Supporting mods to make this all work will likely end up in a seperate thread/post.
Now on to the required tools to make all this happen. I do have a lot of basic tools (wrenches, torque wrenches, sockets, etc) and a couple of things I know I'll need (feeler gauges,bore cleaning brush set, 240 grit ball type cyl hone) already. Rather than list my whole tool box I'll only focus on things I need and don't have.
You'll notice I didn't include anything on the rotating assembly (pistons, connecting rods, flexplate, balancer), the hope is to get this completed without visiting a machine shop, but that will depend on a few things. AFR specifically states that due to the larger valve size on the cylinder head that stock piston valve reliefs may not have enough PTV clearance with some 5.0L engines. Afiak, stock 351w pistons don't actually have valve reliefs, just a giant dish, so I'll have to double/triple check the piston to valve during mock up (this is why I'm not too concerned with zero-decking, and why head gasket thickness might matter). If it doesn't clear, then I'll be shopping for aftermarket pistons/rods, forced to take it in to a machine shop for balancing, and at that point, seriously considering going straight to a 408 stroker. If any of the measurements I can do myself don't pass the spec tolerances, then I'll be forced to take it to a machine shop, and at that point, seriously consider going straight to a 408 stroker.
There are a few other things to consider as well, line bore, cam bore/bearings, RA finish of mating surfaces, final cc of combustion chamber and compression ratio. As above, if I end up having to go to a machine shop, I may as well just go straight to a 408 stroker.
So to get things started, here's what I have purchased so far with prices in CA dollars:
- 351w supposedly from a '95 F150, oil pan to lower intake manifold - $440
- AFR 185cc Heads, "assembled", 58cc chamber, 3/8" stud mount, w/ egr and smog - $2009.03
- ARP Head Stud Kit 254-4503, as per AFR recommended parts - 240.60
- Comp Cams XE258HR, 112LS, .533/.544 Lift, 208/216 duration at .050 - $360.52
- Comp Cams 1831 Ultra Cro-Magnon XD Rocker Arms, 3/8" Stud, Chromoly Steel, Full Roller, inc polylocks - $519.35 [I got these 20% off from some ebay coupon]
- 5.8L V8 Racing S/S Manifold Exhaust Headers, (?) 1 1/2" tubes, 3" collector, EGR and O2 bungs, inc bolts/gaskets - $160.41 [Note: don't check ebay when drunk]
- Victor Reinz OS32144 One Piece Oil Gasket, - $31.27 ?
- Melling M83 Oil Pump, Standard volume and pressure - $43.88 ?
- Melling IS83 Intermediate Oil Shaft, Hardened steel - $7.59 ?
So here's what's left to purchase:
Edelbrock 3881 Performer Truck Intake- $963 + shipping/import, $1835 w/ BBK 56mm TB &K&N filterFord M-9439-G50Intake Gasket, I'm inclined to go with the Ford racing, but the Fel-pro is AFR recommended - $15 or $25ARP 154-2101/154-2001Intake Manifold Bolts - $40IAC Bypass Plate, will have to verify sizing - $70.33Hardened Pushrods, prob Comp, need to measure for length - $200 ?Mr. Gasket 5807GHead Gasket, as per qdeezie's 5.0 thread, I like the increased compression but may depend on PTV clearance - $70Sealed Power E458KPiston Rings, 1.5/1.5/4 mm, plasma moly faces, std size depending on taper measurement - $88.03Mahle/Clevite MS981HMain Bearings, Upper grooved, tri-metal, H series can withstand more pressure, std size pending measurements - $61.54Mahle/Clevite CB831HNKRod bearings, Tri-metal, narrowed (?), std size pending measurements - 184ARP 150-6404 Connecting Rod Bolts,'Wave Loc', need to find out if weight will affect balanceRear Main Seal, either rubber or teflon, depending on condition of crank - $25 ?National 88187Harmonic Balancer Repair sleeve, need to measure, per qdeezie 5.0 thread, sacrificial part for insurance against machining crank, $8.50Cloyes 93738Quick Adjust Timing Set, Double roller, +/- 6° adjustment - $206.59Cometic C5660-020Timing Cover Gasket, Rubber w/ steel core, as per qdeezie's 5.0 thread - $25.56Mahle JV1034Timing gasket set, Water pump etc, keep the paper timing cover as spare? - $5.63- Valve Covers, Likely need taller than stock to accomodate roller rockers, need to measure when valvetrain/intake is assembled - $ ?
Valve Cover Gaskets, rubber w/ steel core - $ ?- Water Pump, Motorcraft, not sure i'll need a new one, but may be a good idea to do at the time, need to research effect flow rate has (if any) on cooling - $80
Moroso Oil Pump Studs, hardened steel, may look for ARP and compare prices - $30.11- Cam Thrust Plate, need to measure endplay and see what if anything is needed, only listed to keep it in mind
T-stat, will try to find something in the 180-195 range
That's all that comes to mind on the parts side of it, feel free to mention anything I may have forgotten or issues with parts chosen. For sake of ease, all parts will be ordered through Rockauto where available, Jegs or Summit ebay stores (combined orders), even if a part is cheaper somewhere else, shipping and import charges to Canada add up quickly. There are more things I know I could add (maf upgrade [ordered fiveology, 07/17/18], wideband o2, fuel system upgrades), but they don't really limit the ability to start putting this together. Supporting mods to make this all work will likely end up in a seperate thread/post.
Now on to the required tools to make all this happen. I do have a lot of basic tools (wrenches, torque wrenches, sockets, etc) and a couple of things I know I'll need (feeler gauges,bore cleaning brush set, 240 grit ball type cyl hone) already. Rather than list my whole tool box I'll only focus on things I need and don't have.
9" Degree Wheel, I can pick one of these up locally, needed for installing camDial Gauge indicator, prob order on amazon, for finding tdc and checking dwell, play in cam/crank- Magnetic Deck Bridge, amazon, straddles cylinder bore for use with dial gauge
Bore Gauge, amazon, for measuring cylinder taper/roundMachinists rule/straight edge, for measuring deck runoutBalancer puller, can get locally, may check amazonValve spring compressor, may rent, can source locally- Adjustable Pushrod, for measuring pushrods, prob Comp
- Dummy springs, so I don't destroy the adjustable pushrod
- Piston ring file, prefer to get one of little wheel dealies
Piston Ring compressor- Plastigauge, for measuring clearances
- Deadblow Hammers, I don't have any and am unaccustomed to working with softer metals
- Brass hammer/punches, same as above
You'll notice I didn't include anything on the rotating assembly (pistons, connecting rods, flexplate, balancer), the hope is to get this completed without visiting a machine shop, but that will depend on a few things. AFR specifically states that due to the larger valve size on the cylinder head that stock piston valve reliefs may not have enough PTV clearance with some 5.0L engines. Afiak, stock 351w pistons don't actually have valve reliefs, just a giant dish, so I'll have to double/triple check the piston to valve during mock up (this is why I'm not too concerned with zero-decking, and why head gasket thickness might matter). If it doesn't clear, then I'll be shopping for aftermarket pistons/rods, forced to take it in to a machine shop for balancing, and at that point, seriously considering going straight to a 408 stroker. If any of the measurements I can do myself don't pass the spec tolerances, then I'll be forced to take it to a machine shop, and at that point, seriously consider going straight to a 408 stroker.
There are a few other things to consider as well, line bore, cam bore/bearings, RA finish of mating surfaces, final cc of combustion chamber and compression ratio. As above, if I end up having to go to a machine shop, I may as well just go straight to a 408 stroker.
Last edited by SaltEater; 08-26-2018 at 07:45 PM.
#2
Martin
This is just my opinion based on past experience. So with that said and given you've bought heads already I'd hunt and find a short block. You'll spend as much if not more and really not have as good a bottom end as a reputable engine builder could supply. The Edlebrock intake is a quality piece but really made for drag racing hi rpm operation. Modifying the computer to allow higher rpm operation can be done but it's expensive and there really aren't many places that can even do the programming. There is software you can buy but the learning curve is steep. So you really want parts that work at idle to 5500 rpm. I'd take a second look at the cam specs to see if it fits that rpm rang.
Good luck sounds like a fun project.
Good luck sounds like a fun project.
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
The bottom end is going to be up in the air (lol) until I get everything measured up and see what kind of shape it's in. If it checks out alright and there are no ptv issues with giant valves that came with the head, i'll leave it for a bit and probably stroke it later just because. If not, then I dunno. May see what's out there for decent blocks either aftermarket or rebuilt and see what budget/timetable allows for. I'll have to look around and see what there are for engine builders, but I can't imagine finding anything within 3 hours of me that wouldn't charge just as much plus labour. 6 hours travel east or west would get me to a real city, stupid prairies.
As for the Edelbrock, everything I've read about it suggests it becomes a restriction above 5500 rpms. The 3881 package specifically says truck intake (idle-5500 rpms), the 3884 is available as a 5.8 lower that matches up to a mustang upper for more rpms. There are other options, i think trickflow has a 5.8 efi manifold, but i'm almost certain those would be more geared towards the mustang crowd.
As to the cam, the lift is a bit much, but the rpm range listed says 1300-5300, with that head and everything else I'm not anticipating this being an issue, it should make more power literally everywhere. The reason I settled on that cam was mostly because it was always at the tippy top of the list for comp's cam quest software, with a nice flat(ish) torque curve.
Playing with intake manifold type in that program does change the curve significantly, switching it to 'stock tuned port injection' drops the HP's to 370, and the torque shoots up to 493. The edelbrock performer option actually shows a goofy looking looking curve with 2 peaks (i'm thinking its supposed to be the carbed high rpm version), but average torque actually comes out at 185 ftb. I've edited the flow numbers using those from AFR's page, and you'll notice vehicle weight is listed at 5000 lbs, which is the max for the program.
Bench racing aside, if you look closely at the cam duration numbers, it's pretty close your 512 with more lift, and more aggressive ramp rates. qdeezie does also mention the 510 in his 302 thread here, but I didn't notice that until I started this thread and went back for references. Looking at the flow numbers and included springs, the cam also seems to fit the heads nicely.
I am definitely planning for a MAF conversion,most likely the Fiveology deal, with 30 or 36 lb injectors. [Edit: Have the Fiveology kit w/ K&N waiting to go] . There is a speed shop 2-ish hours north of me, I guess they have a chassis dyno so hopefully that means they can tune it.
Hopefully I'll be able to update the OP with the rest of the parts list tomorrow, spent too much time tonight just double checking everything.
As for the Edelbrock, everything I've read about it suggests it becomes a restriction above 5500 rpms. The 3881 package specifically says truck intake (idle-5500 rpms), the 3884 is available as a 5.8 lower that matches up to a mustang upper for more rpms. There are other options, i think trickflow has a 5.8 efi manifold, but i'm almost certain those would be more geared towards the mustang crowd.
As to the cam, the lift is a bit much, but the rpm range listed says 1300-5300, with that head and everything else I'm not anticipating this being an issue, it should make more power literally everywhere. The reason I settled on that cam was mostly because it was always at the tippy top of the list for comp's cam quest software, with a nice flat(ish) torque curve.
Spoiler
Bench racing aside, if you look closely at the cam duration numbers, it's pretty close your 512 with more lift, and more aggressive ramp rates. qdeezie does also mention the 510 in his 302 thread here, but I didn't notice that until I started this thread and went back for references. Looking at the flow numbers and included springs, the cam also seems to fit the heads nicely.
I am definitely planning for a MAF conversion,
Hopefully I'll be able to update the OP with the rest of the parts list tomorrow, spent too much time tonight just double checking everything.
Last edited by SaltEater; 08-11-2018 at 03:39 AM.
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Ok, I finally got around to completing the OP. Sorry if bumping is frowned upon.
Also should add, this is my first engine build, and I know I'm overdoing it. Any advice offered for this kind of thing is appreciated and will be considered.
Also should add, this is my first engine build, and I know I'm overdoing it. Any advice offered for this kind of thing is appreciated and will be considered.
#5
Senior Member
Good luck man - that is my best advice. It looks like it will be a lot of work but also a lot of fun. I hope you keep us updated.
I had a roller 351 sitting in my garage for months but I sold it yesterday - decided if I put anything in it I would just go big with a 460 and be done with it.
I had a roller 351 sitting in my garage for months but I sold it yesterday - decided if I put anything in it I would just go big with a 460 and be done with it.
#7
Senior Member
I remember the thread, I tried so hard not to puke words all over it but kinda did anyway. You never did get back to me on how you like your 4.10's, bet they'd pull pretty good with a big block out front.
Why go 460 when you can make it a 552?
Why go 460 when you can make it a 552?
I uhhh, am not going to google 552. Not gonna do it. Nope.