needshave

1996 F150, 2wd 8ft bed:

I need to pull the rear spring hangers off the frame of my 96 Ford to do some repair around the attachment point where the rear bumper attaches to the frame.

Looking at reassembly, it it better to leave the spring attached to the hanger and unbolt the springer/hanger attachment to the frame or is it better to remove the spring eye bolt separating the spring from the hanger and then remove the hanger? Concerned about the reattachment or installation of the above pieces with the spring being placed back in tension. Anyone have any experiences or ideas they would be willing to share? Appreciate your time.

Chris_1

iTrader: (1)

If the hanger is bolted to the frame it's aready been replaced, just unbolt it.
If it's still riveted you'll probably have to unbolt the shackle to be able to get at the rivets to grind them off.
If the weight of the frame is supported by a jack stand you shouldn't have any spring pressure to be concerned over.

needshave

Chris, thanks,

Thats what I thought, however.

The hangers have been replaced and are bolted to the frame and thats fine, but with the hanger nuts off, the frame on stands and wheels off, I can not drive the bolts out of the hanger/frame. The joint is obviously still under considerable stress. I have quit for the day, but before I left I tried putting a come along from spring eye to spring eye, on the same spring of course, that seem to help. I did get one bolt to move.

Chris_1

iTrader: (1)

If the frame is on jack stands and the wheels are off so that the diff is hanging, then you have the weight of the springs and the weight of the diff hanging on the bolts.
What you need to do now is put your jack under the diff and lift it until you get no pressure at the bolts.
At that point you should be able to remove the bolts and lower the diff down enough to get at the frame where the hangers are.

needshave

Chris,

I did just as you said a bit earlier, with no success. There was a considerable amount of force being applied against the hanger bolts in a static application. I eventually took a bar clamp ( I am an avid woodworking)stretching from spring eye to spring eye on one side. Very little torque on the clamp was just enough to slightly shorten the cord length of the spring and allowed me to get the bolts out.

I now have to look at reinforcing the frame in the area of the bumper bolts. I found one section of the frame where the bed mounts to the frame on the curbside closest to the bumper was missing. Still attached to the box but cracked out in such a clean break it actually looks cut.

Anyone have experience reinforcing the frame. I need to patch the flange as shown and the center section just in the area of the bumper attachment bolt nut. The large nut welded or shanked to the frame. I plan on cutting out the rotted area and installing a plate of equal thickness to the frame. tack weld in place, then reinforcing the frame with a double plate the height of the channel and extending forward total length of 34". then go back in and welding the insert plate into the backing plate so that i get plenty of penetration into the backing plate. The back plate will be punched with 1" Dia holes along the center or neutral axis of the backing plate so that i can then rosette weld into the original frame. I may stitch weld along the longitudinal length of the backing plate in 1" stitch welds but not along the vertical edge. Any thought on the welding? Full perimeter welding or not?? Thanks so much for your help.

Chris_1

iTrader: (1)

Kinda strange you would still have pressure; the shackle should have allowed it to be kinda floppy. Unless the shackle is seized ? Something to look at maybe.
I wouldn't think you have to get too too carried away on that repair. The frame was only about 1/8 to 3/16" thick to start with.
Take advantage of any existing bolts or holes to attach a stiffener or repair piece on and if you want to throw a couple weld beads on for insurance that should be lots.
I think I'd probably use a long piece bent in an L so it can be bolted firmly to the sides and wrap under and pick up the hitch bolts as well.

needshave

I will probably need to put the Stiffler inside the frame or channel don't you think? If I put it outside then the seating face of the spring hanger would be forced outboard and if it's original position in the front. The Stiffler in the rear has to support the rear spring hanger,very week in the last 6-8 inches of frame.

Chris_1

iTrader: (1)

1/8 " won't make any difference to how the truck tracks or anything. You can probably do a much better job of fastening it securely working it from the outside.

needshave

If I put the reinforcement on the outside of the frame, will the bumper supports fit over the reinforcement? My reinforcement has to go all the way to the end of the frame. The weekest spot was atound the bumper irons.

thanks