More pics after clean up. How do i know if i need to replace the cylinder? Or is it a case of doing it would be expedient while i had drum off and very little brake fluid in the system?
I have removed drum from drivers side, and all the parts are in place. Will disassemble and give it a clean up

 

Yeah, that's pretty bad. I haven't seen drums that horrific since the last 2 F250s I bought.

If you follow the instructions in this caption & the NEXT, you shouldn't have any problems.

(click this text)


The drums should be smooth & flat before installation. If they're not (and that one is NOT), they either have to be cut on a brake lathe (up to their maximum ID, usually embossed on the outer face) or replaced. If the wheel cylinder can be compressed (cap OFF the master cylinder reservoir), and its internal spring can push it back out, and it doesn't leak, it doesn't need to be replaced. If any of those fails, buy the best new one you can find. The OEM was Bendix, but they don't make these parts any more. I trust Wagner next.

 

It was going reasonably well.....took the drums to a local shop but they said they were too thin, so i have bought two new drums. Also got new wheel cylinders. Passenger side now done, but have hit a problem removing the flare nut from the drivers side wheel cylinder and the brake line is broken. I don't particularly want to get into making my own replacement - anyone know the part number for the driver's side brake line and where i could get one from?

 

You'll never find just that tube, but it's very easy to either buy one that length pre-flared with nuts & bend it by hand; or, re-flare the broken tube end & straighten its bends just enough to give you back that reach. That's what I did on this truck:

(click this text)


This is a pre-flared tube:

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b.../6108427?pos=9

 

Gah! i went into O'Reillys but must have asked for the wrong thing. That is very helpful, thanks Steve

 

More woes: the line i ordered from O'Reillys was 3/16" diameter, 20" length, 3/8 thread (part CNJ320). But it didn't fit the wheel cylinder. Looking at the label on the brake line, it said metric thread (but with the correct part number). So back to O'Reillys and they have a line with flared ends and 3/8 thread. Great. Except the other end does not fit the junction piece mounted on the rear axle. Looking closely at the original line, indeed the two flare nuts at either end are different sizes.

 

So either re-flare the original, or cut one end from the new tube, and re-flare it with the nut you need. I bought this after doing the job in that pic, so I can't confirm yet that it's easier to use:

 

I had to purchase an adapter fitting when I replaced that line. You will not find that line with the two different sized fittings.Any store should have an adapter fitting..Otherwise, you will have to cut the end off the new line, install a new fitting of the correct size and reflare the line. Parts stores often have loaner kits available to flare the lines.

 

Thanks Raski and Steve.
I had ordered a pre-formed brake line I found on eBay from motor city muscle car. This was more in hope than anything, I thought I could always return it if I found another solution first. However it turned up on Saturday and fitted exactly. Put the drivers side drum brake together, bled the system with the aid of child #2 and #3 and took the truck out for a very gentle test run round the neighborhood. All seems good. Thanks for your help on this project- took longer than I expected, but now have working brakes and a better idea of how drum brakes work. Now to find out why my coolant is disappearing...