Brakes for Towing
 

1995 F150 4x4 XLT 5.0l 109K miles pulling 4000lb trailer with weight balancing. This is my 4x4 for snow and my trailer puller in the summer.

I need to do my breaks, they are squeaking up a storm. Should I go for Carbon Metallics? Should I change my rotors for something better, or just make sure they are in good shape?

My brain says get Carbon, and only replace if the rotors are bad.

Call www.frozenrotors.com and see if they have cryotreated rotors for your truck. The website says they do but the picture is of the wrong rotor. If you can get them then I would suggest it along with so.e good pads.

I had a set of cryo treated rotors with a set of Hawk racing pads on a previous car. After almost a year with those hardcore pads the rotor still looked like it had recently been resurfaced. And, they would not warp at all. It would stop on a dime. I was given the rotors and pads to test and I tried to warp the rotors on purpose. No such luck.

I have been, since I posted, told about Hawk from a pal, here in what I call real life. Thanks for the rotor advice. They look excellent If I had 270 bucks for my rotors. At least not today. I still have not removed the wheel to inspect the rotor <chuckle>. Does anybody not on a motorcycle use slotted rotors?

Yes, a lot of people use slotted rotors, and drilled rotors. The slots and holes help the rotor to cool quicker, but mostly theyre use because the slots help evacuate gasses and water, as well as heat.

I have cross drilled and slotted rotors on mine, with standard ceramic pads. I don't tow or haul much but they stop you pretty quick. Not like a sports car of course but for an old truck with single piston calipers it's pretty good. Plus they seem to last a lot longer. I've had these on for 5 or 6 years now.

I think yall are getting to the heart of my question. Better pads or better rotors?

I never liked the idea of slotted rotors, from a pure physics perspective. That and they do tear up the pads more. That's where all the extra power comes for stopping (sorry, but its not heat, the physics of the heat making a difference is nominal on anything over a half ton or so).

I know that slotted/drilled stop faster. I know that good pads are better than cheaper pads. As questioned above, Better pads vs better rotors.

Pads, even good ones, are cheaper. So I think I will be pulling my wheels and checking my rotors. If they are still smooth, then I will get pads, if not, I will get cheaper pads and some drilled rotors. I don't daily drive this truck, it gets about 2-4K a year in towing, hauling, and snowy days. So if I have to change the pads sooner: so be it.

Anyone have anything to say about the durability of slotted/drilled rotors over smooth?

Whatever dissipates heat better will allow you to stop faster. If your truck actually needs more stopping power, which it probably doesn't.
With a trailer that weighs damn near as much as the truck you probably should be thinking about trailer brakes.
Truck already has a harness under the dash to plug into.

Its not so much stopping power as control. My specific need for towing is up and down the mountains here in Colorado. Its an interstate, that goes to 11500 feet from around 5500 here near Denver. Its a very intense climb. But going DOWN is what puts the hair on your chest. I used to do it with an XJ, and that wasnt too fun. I really just need a brake job...

I put carbon metallics on my bronco back when I lived in B.C. and spent a lot of time fishing in high mountain lakes.
No fading at all with them. I put new rotors at the same time (stock) and from what I was told, within the first few thousand clicks the C/M pads will impregnate (that's what they said) the rotors with carbon.
I just know they worked real good 'cause the best lakes were really high.