Brandon587

Wouldnt detonation be heard at all rpms, and after two or three months tear up my engine by now? Hear is a link to a video of my truck making the sound.

DIY

Brandon587

So the noise in the video could be just that? Im going to check one way or another, but I just want to know how much hope I can Have lol

DIY

After listening to the video, it seems your engine is not running rich enough when cold, so I did a little research and found this in my repair manual: Refer to page 4-18 in Chilton's #26664 Repair Manual for '87-'96 Ford Pickups and Bronco.
"With the ignition switch off, pull the connector on the Idle Air Control Valve and measure the resistance between the terminals of the valve solenoid. If the resistance is not 7-13 ohms, replace the air control valve."

Brandon587

It rattles warm, cold, and everywhere between, but I will try and see if its good.

Brandon587

today, I checked the resistance of the iac, good at 11.3 to.6 ohms. Checked my plugs, all were pretty good but gapped wrong, so I regapped them. I took my distributor cap off and it was horribly corroded, so I got a new one along with a rotor. I changed the oil and filter, and again listened to the truck. The sound might not be occurring as much, need a few more days to know, but it sounds just like its coming from the tranny. I had crank bearings suggested at o'reilly's, so I listened at the engine oil pan, and didn't hear anything unusual. Listened to the tranny again around its oil pan and valve bodies, and that is the only place I can hear the sound with a screw driver. But what in the tranny could cause a noise like that and not effect its operation? And is my lifters were sticking or crapping out on me, wouldn't I have a loss of power? I havent had the truck before the sound was there, but the truck feels plenty strong, keeps up with my friends 02 5.9 gas dodge ram, although he has some miles on it(201,xxx). Look forward to hearing back from you all.

I also tried to take off the egr, but couldnt get the bolt around where the exhaust comes into it off, I ended up messing up my adjustable wrench and when it gave I slammed my hand into the passenger fender, which felt pretty good. I put wd40on it last night and today and It didn't come off, I guess I need to find me a cheater bar and a stronger wrench lol.

DIY

.6 ohms? That is not within specs of 13 to 7 ohms. Consider replacing the IACV.
PB Blaster in the white can with a yellow cap is the best rust penetrating catylist I've ever used. An adjustable end wrench is inferior to a good pair of Channelock pliers if you don't have the correct wrench for the job.
I thought I heard the double knocking sound of a worn piston wrist pin in the video, but I didn't want to suggest that since engine pinging (detonation) sounds much the same as worn wrist pin/piston slap.
What did the coil tower/secondary ignition coil wire connection look like? That's the big wire that plugs onto center of the distributor cap. If it is the original coil, it is money well spent for a new replacement. Also check the resistance of all of your spark plug wires.
I make it a practice to install the best ignition parts I can afford from coil to spark plugs. I only have to do it once every 80,000 to 100,000 miles. It ensures I am getting the best bang for my bucks, and the best fuel economy for a combination of city and highway driving.

Brandon587

Sorry for being unclear. I meant the idle air control valve read 11.3 to 11.6 ohms, not just .6. I will edit that to avoid further confusion.I didnt check my coil though or the resistance of my spark plug wires. Right now, however, I have no more money to replace things, I only have a part time job and get paid biweekly, but my bday is in 3 days so maybe then. I spent $65 yesterday on just oil, filter, distrubitor cap, and rotor. But what has me confused is I can only hear thenoise coming from the tranny around the valve bodys, not at the heads, or the exhuast, or around the crank, or at the intake, only the tranny. I know that sound can travel and sound like its in a differemt place, but that much? And as far as how the truck runs, it runs great and shifts smooth, it just has this rattle. Wont bad lifters hurt my perforamnce, and wouldnt the noise always be present? Same if I have any internal engine problems? But, my valves do sometimes chatter when I put it to thefloor and it revs up, most of thetime when its shifting from second to third at 65 to 70 mph. I checked my timing, it was at 10 degrees, so I put 89 octane fuel in it to help cut down chatter. It helped but still every so often chatters. Are these two problems related, and should I try retarding my timing some?

DIY

Yes, set the timing at idle between 6 and 8 degrees before TDC. Don't fret about your lifters; these are hydraulic and can absorb a bit of shock.
If your 5.8 V8 has a knock sensor, try to locate a replacement, I understand knock sensors are rare or not available.
When did you last service the AT? Replace the filter and AT fluid when you can afford it.

Brandon587

Whats the AT? Automatic transmission? If so I just did about a month ago when I pulled it out to replace the front pump seal. And Im starting to suspect the flywheel after listening some more. It seems to be coming from that area. Can the flywheel make a noise like that and come and go, and not make the noise in drive?