moltenmetal

I don't know what trolling means but if you mean 'I am stirring the pot' then yeah kinda....

raski

Any SN rated conventional 10W-30 best price at the time for me. No additives or synthetics allowed.

Phyer Phyter

Most any brand name oil should be sufficient.
I would not use "high milage" oil in anything. I have been told by an Oil Co. engineer that high mileage oils are lower end oil with an additive added to soften hardened seals. The idea is that it helps seal minor seeps. I am not a fan of the "Mechanic in a Can" repair procedures and do not recommend most motor oil additives.

Brandon587

Not to argue, but pretty much all oils have additives 👍. I believe their are only actually 3 main suppliers of oil, can't remember the names it has been a while since I had that class, and from there every company adds additavies such as zinc, and various cleaning agents and crap to keep from harming your catholic converters. I agree with the snake oil idea though completely though. Just to add it in, the oil I used at the time I just used because it was a synthetic oil, and now has been replaced with another name something lol. However, after years of working on and building cat engines, I have grown to like how consistently clean mobile one oil has seemed to go along with 1,000,000+ engines. Could be coincidence, but just my personal observation when asking what they use for oil. By no means am I an oil expert though lol, so I could be completely off! And yea Most high mileage" stuff does have additives to soften hardened seals though... rant done lol

justintendo

certainly not the case regarding high mileage oils. mobil 1 hm and valvoline maxlife are both excellent high mileage synthetic oils proven by many users. oils like these are not misinformed "mechanic in a can" types.

justintendo

when you say no synthetics, are you referring to group 3, 4, or 5 oils? group 5 is the only one that is truly synthetic involving no crude in any way, using only ester based stock.
do you consider hydrocracked conventional oil to be synthetic?
i guess my point is if you want to avoid "synthetic" oil, you will need to stick with a group 2 oil...which is in contradiction with "any sn oil".

Brandon587

No and I am not calling it that.... I am more agreeing to using it for the purposes of fixing something like a leak only.... although I know it isn't meant for that, I was going along with what he was saying. I didn't get it because it said can fix leaks, I got it because it was synthetic, an oil brand I had used for a while too is all. And I also use maxlife in my tcase, power steering, and trans.... 253,000 on original all of that plus heavy towing.... been doing good!

raski

I said "any SN rated conventional". Don't make a mountain out of a mole hill.

justintendo

http://pqiamerica.com/March2013PCMO/...sallfinal.html

this chart is a few years old, but the pqia has lots of good insight about oil.

lucas products are almost always full of marketing and flash, but are often sub-performing. note the poor TBN and NOACK.
cam 2 is equally abysmal surprisingly. these numbers havent changed a whole lot since 2013.

Phyer Phyter

I was referring to the off the shelf additives types like no-smoke, oil conditioner, oil treatment, oil stabilizer, stop leak and so on. Not the additives the come in the oil you buy from the manufacturer - Like, Mobil, Chevron,Quaker State, Shell and so on.