92 F150 5.0 Wont Start (tries to fire a couple times)
 

Hey guys.

Wracking my brain here. Bought this 92 F150 5.0 automatic about a month ago and everything seemed find but now it does not want to start. While driving down the highway it suddenly went into "limp mode" and didn't have much power. Was able to hobble it home but had to use 1st and 2nd gear (automatic). It was also idling horribly and puffing a little black smoke. If starting in drive it was like trying to take off in a standard shift in 3rd or 4th gear. It would start back up if shutting it off but the next morning it wouldn't start. It would turn over and try to fire a bit but wouldn't start and would just keep cranking.

A couple days later the temp dropped about 20 degrees and it started right up but blew a puff of white smoke and continue to blow a little white smoke while idling fine this time. After about 10 minutes of idle it shut of by itself and wouldn't start again.Same issue. Turned over and acted like it wanted to fire a couple times but then just continued to crank.

Codes I pulled were misfire cyl 8, EGR valve issue, and then a 412 code which I guess is a bad idle. Anyway, what I've tried to do/checked so far:

• replaced EGR valve
• replaced ignition control module
• replaced ignition coil
• checked all the gaps on the plugs and they're ok. was told plugs and wires were replaced recently and the distributor looks newish
• both fuel pumps seem to be priming (i can hear them)
• FYI the front fuel tank was replaced because of a leak but had a shop do that. Don't think that would have an effect on these issues unless they messed something up and I don't have good fuel pressure now but I put at least 100 miles on it after they replaced that.

Really not sure what else to do here. The fact that it seems to fire a couple times but then just cranks has be thrown off. Maybe I don't have good fuel pressure? I know these early 90s, duel tank fords have fuel delivery issues. Waiting for another cooler day to see if it starts but since it did start on a cold day makes me thing something electronic.

Anyway, any ideas or tips would be great! Let me know if I can give anymore info.

That's vague & brief. The more we know, the more-likely we can help you. Click this, read the caption, study the truck, and fill in your signature:

https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/...oorsticker.jpg
(phone app link)No such thing on these old trucks. They always try to run right - the EEC cannot make it run worse to protect anything, which is what "limp mode" implies.Read this caption, and then smell the e-brake pedal:

https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/...258e4oda2z.jpg
(phone app link)

If it stinks like an electrical fire, that's probably the source. In any case, it's worth pulling the EEC to check.Don't guess. When you post codes, post the number AND the COMPLETE definition. The list in this caption is from Ford, and specific to these trucks (which are incapable of identifying misfires or cylinders):

https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/.../dlc-eeciv.jpg
(phone app link)STOP throwing part$ at it. Never change a part unless it fails a published test. If you change a part, make sure the replacement passes the same test the previous part failed. When you change one, tell us the brand, PN, & source.If you can't hear them, what makes you think they're priming?Every detail about the truck needs to be in your signature. We'll tell you if anything is unnecessary/redundant & can be removed.

Sorry, I CAN* hear the fuel pumps priming. Typo - corrected now. I'm trying to give all the info I can guys. This not like working on newer VWs like I have for the last 10 years. The only codes i'm able to pull are:

• 8 (the book with my scanner just refers this to a misfire, but this is not possible to identify misfires?)
• 412 - Cannot control rpm during high rpm check
• 116 - Engine Cooling Temperature (ECT) Sensor out of Self-Test range (engine not warmed up before test)
• 33 - rc EGR valve opening not detected (no change in EVP when EVR activated)

From what I understand, the scanner looks for a different set of codes when running but unfortunately I cannot get it started.

Your signature is still empty. :rolleyes:

STOP using a scanner - use a jumper wire as that caption describes & links. Scanners are expensive, UNreliable, and confusing (as you're seeing). The jumper wire will never lie to you.

BTW
EECs cannot produce both 2- & 3-digit DTCs. It's one or the other. And none of these EECs produce 1-digit codes. Read that caption.

When I go into my settings it shows my signature as 1992 F150 5.0 Automatic and the "show your signature" box is checked. I'm not sure if you're not seeing it or you're saying it's not enough information. If not enough information, what else needs to be in there? Also, what additional information are you wanting beyond my original post? I tried to be as detailed as possible with what I experiencing.

I've tried going through this: https://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford...module-tests-1 but seems everything seems to be working per those diagnostic tests.

As far as the the scanner codes I'll work on trying the jumper wire method but in trialing a new ignition coil and ignition module I disconnected the battery so would the codes have cleared themselves?

I know you don't want to speculate which is understandable but if the ignition system seems to all be working properly what else do you think would keep it from firing? Should I test fuel pressure even though I can hear the pumps priming? Isn't there a relay after the pumps? Since the time I could get it started for a bit it was puffing white smoke out the exhaust is there potential coolant in one of the cylinders preventing it from firing?

A lot of speculative questions there I realize, but you keep saying I'm not offering up enough information and I don't know what else you're wanting to know.

Your sig shows in your last post (not the previous ones), but it's NOT what that caption describes. I knew your truck was built in the 1900s, and I assumed it was an F150. So all your sig really says is "'92 5.0L". There were several automatics available that year, so that tells me nothing. READ THAT FIRST CAPTION, and follow its suggestions if you want help.

If you want to diagnose the ignition system, read the first half of this caption, but get a Haynes manual:

https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/...ibutor9296.jpg
(phone app link)

https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/...l/hayneses.jpg
(phone app link)

You need your VIN in your signature, so it seems...
That being said, I will agree you need a Haynes manual. Get one and read it. They are very helpful.
Check your fuel pressure with a gauge, either buy one, or some parts stores loan them out. The reading should be between 32-45 if I remember correctly (I know someone will jumped right in to correct me). Another question; is this a must fix, everyday driver? If not, you probably should stop throwing parts at it and diagnose the problem. However, it is your truck.

Not a daily so I have time.

Ok, finally got it started. Just sprayed a little carb cleaner directly in the intake and started right up, blowing out a large puff of white smoke at first then tapering off (hoping I dont have a blown head gasket or cracked head) to just a little bit as it idled VERY roughly but it still stayed running. Shut it off after a while, came back to it later and it started right up again with no carb cleaner this time. However, this time it was still idling rough but black smoke this time and clearly running rich from the smell.

I have a couple broken, open vacuum lines that I've discovered as I've been working on it so I'm going to study the diagram and get those lines fixed but in the mean time I found this open connector that is not connected to anything. It looks like it runs off the main wiring harness and splits off just behind the compressor. Looked around for about 10 minutes trying to see where it goes but could not find it. Is this just some sort of a diagnostic connector?

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f15...38603020f4.jpg
Wires are white with red line and yellow with a black line.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f15...028498e34b.jpg

It's the PSP, which your engine doesn't need. It makes enough torque at idle to handle the load without a bump. The best way to ID any connector is by its wire colors, which you can look up in several places:
http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/...wirecolsdg.jpg
(phone app link)






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If your feelings are so delicate that you feel trampled when you post incorrect info and someone else posts a correction, you should just stop posting incorrect info. Because I'm not going to stop posting what I think is correct info.
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