95stepside

I found an ad on craigslist yesterday for 3 turbos, 2 izuzu and a mecedes on the cheap and I'm considering picking them up for a 300 turbo sometime down the road.
When the time comes I'll probably just pick up a 6.5 one though. Plenty of those turds in the junkyard round here

05FordPower

Well I am just to Edelbrock thats all. Well they make an intake now for them but its only for their head. So I was thinking of building my own head and using their intake.

95stepside

heres another good tubo 300 build thread

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/11...-old-p-up.html

Scraptor

Okay now I am confused, build a head?

Welder7018

I've got a setup already planned the only thing holding me back is a low spool turbo for cheap ($50-$150) since its just an experiment. Once I get the turbo I have a guy ready to fab the exhaust. I'll have to ditch the ac. The turbo will be in the way. Once I have a turbo i will begin the build.

05FordPower

Hell ya make a head there for it will be a true crossflow head and airgo make more power and still be more efficient.

Scraptor

There have been a few made with cut and welded v8 heads, usually small Chevy aluminum heads, if you can lay hands on a big tig welder it would be doable, not cheap or easy,
Google the frenchtown flyer.
Port flow isn't the be all end all with a Turbo motor, because you can pack air with the Turbo, big ports aren't really that necessary.

95stepside

a bit of research tells me 351 cleavland or gm ls1 heads are the ones to go for to make it work

engineermike

I've done several turbo conversions, so I think I can help.

1. A T3 60 trim turbo is plentiful and cheap. I bought one off e-bay a while back for $60. It was a stock turbo 2.3 Mustang turbo and will support about 320 hp. It uses a standard T3 inlet flange and a readily available outlet flange. The T3 Super 60 was the factory GN turbo and is also readily available for the same price. It will support about 350 hp, but has an odd-ball inlet flange. They both have built-in wastegates and don't require BOV's, which saves money, time, and complicated piping.
2. Do yourself a favor and buy a carb directly from someone like CSU carb's and an EV hat. They are expensive, but absolutely worth it. I've fought converted carb's for months on end. But when I bought a CSU carb and EV hat, they worked perfectly right out the box anywhere from 3 to 22 psi boost. Carburetor tuning can easily become the most difficult part of a turbo build. It will make-or-break a turbo combo and can be very difficult, counterintuitive, and have disasterous results if a mistake is made. I can't say enough how well the CSU carb worked out the box and saved us a ton of time and probably parts.
3. KISS. The simpler the build, the more likely it is to work. This means stay away from things like custom-built or converted cylinder heads. You'll be fighting all sorts of problems with the head while also trying to sort out the turbo setup. Chances of it actually all working right one day is slim.
4. Expect to have to run 12+ psi of boost to reach 300 hp, assuming you have 165 hp stock.
5. Consider what will have to be done to supress detonation. I don't imagine the combustion chamber shape was exactly the latest detonation-resistant shape, so be very careful. Retarded timing, race gas, methanol injection, and E85 are all options.

05FordPower

So how many pounds of boost would you recommend producing? I am not looking to make a street machine just something that sounds good and has more power is all. Your saying 12lbs of boost which is not to bad. Would you think a intercoller is recommended?