Turbo Charging
#101
Senior Member
Can any one give me a good explanation of how to read a Turbo map, I was playing with the squirrel calculator
http://www.squirrelpf.com/turbocalc/
http://www.squirrelpf.com/turbocalc/
Mass flow: lb/min = naturally aspirated hp x (boost+14.7)/14.7/10.
Pressure ratio: Pr = (boost+14.7)/14.7
Now, you plot the point using the above numbers on the map. It MUST fall on the map. Too far to the right and the compressor is in choke and can't support the goal hp. Too far to the left and it will surge and eventually self-destruct. Beyond that, the closer to the middle of the "efficiency islands", the better. Though, you usually have to give up a lot of spool time to optimize efficiency. For all-around street use and quick spooling, you want the compressor to run between peak efficiency and choke.
Last edited by engineermike; 08-29-2012 at 10:29 AM.
#102
Okie.
Originally Posted by engineermike
The inducer diameter of the compressor determines the ultimate hp capability of a turbocharger. All other aspects matter, but to a lesser extent. My method of turbo selection is, in order of priority. . .
1. Ensure the inducer is big enough. The inducer is the inlet side of the compressor wheel. For 300-350 hp, you'll need a minimum of about a 44 mm turbo to get there.
2. Check flange and connection availability. Some turbo's have odd-ball flanges, oil, or water connections that can make installation difficult.
3. Check to see where the compressor will be running on the map and try to maximize efficiency.
4. Check turbine sizing. Too small will create too much exhaust pressure, while too big will make it laggy. This part is much more experience-based. Many diesel turbo's have a very large turbine size, which would make them laggy on a gas i6.
#103
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/webadviser
You can work with it and fine tune your system with the ap then cross to what you feel you like, after removing the turbo models you don't need. It would seem to cover a great deal in just a few inputs from youof what you want to do. Maybe cross to a brand model you prefer. A quick easy way to research more. After dialing in your motor to what you would like to Mod it to, these guys will steer you, along with your Technical schools availability to offer help. Don't think you really want to be welding on your exhaust manifold if you can help it. Heat like that bad to all parts. Tis better to have a bolt up fit I believe.
You can work with it and fine tune your system with the ap then cross to what you feel you like, after removing the turbo models you don't need. It would seem to cover a great deal in just a few inputs from youof what you want to do. Maybe cross to a brand model you prefer. A quick easy way to research more. After dialing in your motor to what you would like to Mod it to, these guys will steer you, along with your Technical schools availability to offer help. Don't think you really want to be welding on your exhaust manifold if you can help it. Heat like that bad to all parts. Tis better to have a bolt up fit I believe.
Last edited by papa tiger; 08-29-2012 at 02:11 PM.
#105
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Hey guys found still looking for a turbo kit kinda wondering if it would be easier to just buy a universal kit or fab something up myself
#106
Okie.
Originally Posted by 05FordPower
Hey guys found still looking for a turbo kit kinda wondering if it would be easier to just buy a universal kit or fab something up myself
#107
Biggest problem may be simply purging the EVAP, needing a path not existing with the OEM design under boost. A kit available with it included for the 4.9 ?
#108
Senior Member
I've done a whole lot of forced-induction conversions and EVAP has never been an issue. The EVAP just doesn't work when you're in boost, which is fine since that's a small percentage of time.
#109
I suppose knowing the check valve will hold under boost is vital ? DTC's