95 4.9L Removed distributor, reset ignition timing, no start
#1
95 4.9L Removed distributor, reset ignition timing, no start
I have a 1995 f150 4.9L that I am using to learn about working on my own car. Its my daily driver but has some issues I've been diagnosing and working on fixing.
Engine turns over but wont start.
What happened:
I thought my distributor needed to be replaced, but when I removed it the oil pump shaft came with it. I didn't have time to figure out the proper way to remove the shaft for use with the new distributor so I put the old one back until I could do more research (since I needed to drive to work the next day).
BUT, I forgot to mark the distributors postion
I set the ignition timing to 10 BTDC, checked the rotor, and saw it was 180 degress backwards. I turned the rotor to the #1 spark plug but still no luck.
I did remove the SPOUT
Car ran before i removed the distributor so I'm assuming I'm messing up the timing.
Am i doing something wrong or could it be something besides timing?
Engine turns over but wont start.
What happened:
I thought my distributor needed to be replaced, but when I removed it the oil pump shaft came with it. I didn't have time to figure out the proper way to remove the shaft for use with the new distributor so I put the old one back until I could do more research (since I needed to drive to work the next day).
BUT, I forgot to mark the distributors postion
I set the ignition timing to 10 BTDC, checked the rotor, and saw it was 180 degress backwards. I turned the rotor to the #1 spark plug but still no luck.
I did remove the SPOUT
Car ran before i removed the distributor so I'm assuming I'm messing up the timing.
Am i doing something wrong or could it be something besides timing?
#2
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Location: Memphis, TN, Earth, Milky Way
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The oil pump shaft is pressed into the distributor - it pulls out with some force. Don't bend or scar it.
The bottom of this caption explains how to stab the distributor:
(phone app link)
If you don't have a Haynes manual, I recommend you get one:
(phone app link)
The bottom of this caption explains how to stab the distributor:
(phone app link)
If you don't have a Haynes manual, I recommend you get one:
(phone app link)
#3
Thanks Steve,
I have both manuals and was not smart about jumping in to this repair before researching it.
I replaced the distributor, spark plugs and wires, and reset ignition timing. I tried TDC and 10 degrees Below TDC for piston 1. I did remember to remove the SPOUT.
The truck ran fine before I did this work. Problems it had were stalling in idle/reverse and engine rattle when going over 40 mph. Any suggestions on what I might be missing in regards to the spark system? I am planning to explore the fuel line next.
I have both manuals and was not smart about jumping in to this repair before researching it.
I replaced the distributor, spark plugs and wires, and reset ignition timing. I tried TDC and 10 degrees Below TDC for piston 1. I did remember to remove the SPOUT.
The truck ran fine before I did this work. Problems it had were stalling in idle/reverse and engine rattle when going over 40 mph. Any suggestions on what I might be missing in regards to the spark system? I am planning to explore the fuel line next.
#4
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Location: Memphis, TN, Earth, Milky Way
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You assumed there was something wrong with the ignition system before - and you still seem to be stuck on that assumption. AFTER you get the distributor stabbed the way that caption explains, you should start over with DIAGNOSIS - not guesswork. Leave the fuel lines alone. Neither is likely to cause rattling from the engine. Low-RPM stall could be anything. How much fuel pressure does it have?
(phone app link)
(phone app link)
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justintendo (04-12-2018)