'87 4.9L Wont start - Whats this noise?
#1
'87 4.9L Wont start - Whats this noise?
Hi Guys,
I just refurbished this '87 F150 custom 4.9L.
I didnt touche the engine itself much, just replaced the PCV and EGR Valve, and Exhaust Manifolds.
I Replaced an old Rotted Cable going from the battery directly to the starter (Seen in RED in this video).
I replaced the in-line Fuel Pump situated just under the driver seat held in the Frame.
I turn the key to the "On", and instantly I get a moderatly loud "werrring" sound (hear it twice in the video)
If I just leave the ignition to "on" that werring comes back every 5-10 seconds.
If I move from "on" to ignition, nothing happens. no noise, no click, nothing.
This is my first time working on a truck...
I also have a OBS1 Scanner, I plugged it in, turned it on, pressed the "TEST/HOLD" button but it just stays on 0.00
Again, first timer here so I dont even know if I am doing that right. But the instructions were simply, leave truck off, plug in, turn tester on, hold test button.
I filmed my first attempt to start the truck. Please take a minute to check it out...
I can upload more videos of anything you guys want me to check.
I could really use some guidance.
Regards,
Denis
I just refurbished this '87 F150 custom 4.9L.
I didnt touche the engine itself much, just replaced the PCV and EGR Valve, and Exhaust Manifolds.
I Replaced an old Rotted Cable going from the battery directly to the starter (Seen in RED in this video).
I replaced the in-line Fuel Pump situated just under the driver seat held in the Frame.
I turn the key to the "On", and instantly I get a moderatly loud "werrring" sound (hear it twice in the video)
If I just leave the ignition to "on" that werring comes back every 5-10 seconds.
If I move from "on" to ignition, nothing happens. no noise, no click, nothing.
This is my first time working on a truck...
I also have a OBS1 Scanner, I plugged it in, turned it on, pressed the "TEST/HOLD" button but it just stays on 0.00
Again, first timer here so I dont even know if I am doing that right. But the instructions were simply, leave truck off, plug in, turn tester on, hold test button.
I filmed my first attempt to start the truck. Please take a minute to check it out...
I can upload more videos of anything you guys want me to check.
I could really use some guidance.
Regards,
Denis
#2
Member
I think that noise is your starter motor spinning without engaging into the ring gear.
The starter has a gear on the electric motor that flys out when the starter starts.
Take the starter apart and clean those parts. Use NO grease! Use NO oil. those parts slide dry.
The starter has a gear on the electric motor that flys out when the starter starts.
Take the starter apart and clean those parts. Use NO grease! Use NO oil. those parts slide dry.
#3
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Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Memphis, TN, Earth, Milky Way
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First: put all the truck's details into your signature as described in this caption:
(phone app link)
Second: post the brand, PN, & source for the fuel pump you replaced, and pics of it on the truck. Why did you replace it? Where's the original? What was the fuel pressure with the previous pump, and what is it now? It sounds like it might be dry, and it's VERY bad for it to run dry, even briefly. I'd unplug it temporarily, and make sure the tank pump is running long enough to fill the DFR before reconnecting the frame pump & letting it prime. This diagram shows how the fuel system is configured:
(phone app link)
Third: the starter relay won't work until its mounting base is electrically connected to the battery (-). Either mount it to an installed fender, or use a jumper wire. Alternatively, you can bypass the relay by simply shorting across the heavy posts, but that will likely throw some big sparks each time, melting some of the Copper threads off the studs.
(phone app link)
If you ever decide that relay needs to be replaced, buy the NEWER-style relay:
(phone app link)
That truck should not have a battery cable connected to the starter, unless someone has already converted it to the later-style starter:
(phone app link)
This is how it should be wired:
(phone app link)
I highly recommend you try to return that scanner for refund - it's not necessary, or reliable, even if you ever get it to work. A simple jumper wire is MUCH better, as described in these captions:
(phone app link)
(phone app link)
Spend the scanner refund on a Haynes manual, but read this caption to get the right edition:
(phone app link)
(phone app link)
Second: post the brand, PN, & source for the fuel pump you replaced, and pics of it on the truck. Why did you replace it? Where's the original? What was the fuel pressure with the previous pump, and what is it now? It sounds like it might be dry, and it's VERY bad for it to run dry, even briefly. I'd unplug it temporarily, and make sure the tank pump is running long enough to fill the DFR before reconnecting the frame pump & letting it prime. This diagram shows how the fuel system is configured:
(phone app link)
Third: the starter relay won't work until its mounting base is electrically connected to the battery (-). Either mount it to an installed fender, or use a jumper wire. Alternatively, you can bypass the relay by simply shorting across the heavy posts, but that will likely throw some big sparks each time, melting some of the Copper threads off the studs.
(phone app link)
If you ever decide that relay needs to be replaced, buy the NEWER-style relay:
(phone app link)
That truck should not have a battery cable connected to the starter, unless someone has already converted it to the later-style starter:
(phone app link)
This is how it should be wired:
(phone app link)
I highly recommend you try to return that scanner for refund - it's not necessary, or reliable, even if you ever get it to work. A simple jumper wire is MUCH better, as described in these captions:
(phone app link)
(phone app link)
Spend the scanner refund on a Haynes manual, but read this caption to get the right edition:
(phone app link)
The following users liked this post:
Myron's (04-23-2018)
#4
Thanks for your reply steve,
I already have the new Relay/Selonoid : https://i.imgur.com/jKuSF4f.jpg
but based on This diagram you linked, I think the guy might have installed it wrong... If so.. I dont know how it ever started.
I already have the new Relay/Selonoid : https://i.imgur.com/jKuSF4f.jpg
but based on This diagram you linked, I think the guy might have installed it wrong... If so.. I dont know how it ever started.
#5
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Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Memphis, TN, Earth, Milky Way
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That's really dangerous, having both battery cables Red. Someone (possibly you) is going to get confused & cross-connect something. It's also why it appears to be wired so wrong - because it's hard to tell what's actually going where. And it's why the clamp doesn't fit down on the battery post.
In any case: pick a type of starter (the one you have would be the most-obvious choice), and wire it up from ONE of those diagrams. Ignore all the other ways of wiring a starter, and focus on the ONE way you choose. If you don't want to buy black cable, at least spray-paint the one for the negative post black.
In any case: pick a type of starter (the one you have would be the most-obvious choice), and wire it up from ONE of those diagrams. Ignore all the other ways of wiring a starter, and focus on the ONE way you choose. If you don't want to buy black cable, at least spray-paint the one for the negative post black.
#7