Retrofitting 2018 Headlights
#11
Senior Member
Naturally everyone on a forum will tell you go name brand. Usually ends up being a touchy topic on forums.
Tbh, i'm not very sure what the difference between a name brand HID kit vs a cheap HID kit is besides quality assurance and warranty.
Not sure if there is a "performance" benefit.
I do recommend going with some quality projectors though. I used some H1 chinese knockoffs when I did mine and it had a pretty weird cutoff line.
The lighting itself was great and for the price difference vs a name brand i couldn't complain. Huge difference over factory halogens.
However the cutoff was not perfectly straight. It had a slight bend to it at the end.
Tbh, i'm not very sure what the difference between a name brand HID kit vs a cheap HID kit is besides quality assurance and warranty.
Not sure if there is a "performance" benefit.
I do recommend going with some quality projectors though. I used some H1 chinese knockoffs when I did mine and it had a pretty weird cutoff line.
The lighting itself was great and for the price difference vs a name brand i couldn't complain. Huge difference over factory halogens.
However the cutoff was not perfectly straight. It had a slight bend to it at the end.
#12
Senior Member
Naturally everyone on a forum will tell you go name brand. Usually ends up being a touchy topic on forums.
Tbh, i'm not very sure what the difference between a name brand HID kit vs a cheap HID kit is besides quality assurance and warranty.
Not sure if there is a "performance" benefit.
I do recommend going with some quality projectors though. I used some H1 chinese knockoffs when I did mine and it had a pretty weird cutoff line.
The lighting itself was great and for the price difference vs a name brand i couldn't complain. Huge difference over factory halogens.
However the cutoff was not perfectly straight. It had a slight bend to it at the end.
Tbh, i'm not very sure what the difference between a name brand HID kit vs a cheap HID kit is besides quality assurance and warranty.
Not sure if there is a "performance" benefit.
I do recommend going with some quality projectors though. I used some H1 chinese knockoffs when I did mine and it had a pretty weird cutoff line.
The lighting itself was great and for the price difference vs a name brand i couldn't complain. Huge difference over factory halogens.
However the cutoff was not perfectly straight. It had a slight bend to it at the end.
#13
That’s wierd. Thanks for the heads up man. From what I’m seeing online, the Morimoto complete kit is going to cost me around $300 just for the low beam. I’m seeing other kits on eBay for around $100 or even less. My biggest concern is the wiring harness. I want it to be as plug and play as possible, which to me, is worth paying for.
#14
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
That’s wierd. Thanks for the heads up man. From what I’m seeing online, the Morimoto complete kit is going to cost me around $300 just for the low beam. I’m seeing other kits on eBay for around $100 or even less. My biggest concern is the wiring harness. I want it to be as plug and play as possible, which to me, is worth paying for.
#16
Yea I’m definitely waiting on Black Friday. Looking for a good set of spare halogens now.
still researching the DRL strip on how to add to halogen equipped trucks. If anyone is familiar, I’m listening.
still researching the DRL strip on how to add to halogen equipped trucks. If anyone is familiar, I’m listening.
#17
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
You’re lucky! Im doing a retro to my 2017 as we speak! First, definitely wait for Black Friday and buy everything you need at once. Don’t forget the odds and ends like a pair of spreaders and little c clips to help seal the light back up. The RFS has all that stuff. I went with mini h1. You could do the d2s but the the shroud will require a lot of trimming. That’s why I stuck the the mini h1. Mini shrouds fit with no cutting. At least on the ‘17 anyways. The lights are pain to open. I heated for 250 @ 15 min cycles. Heat 15 min do the top, 15 min side, 15 min side, 15 min bottom. You’ll need to clean out all the permaseal so the retro-rubber has a clean surface to bond to. Defiantly heat again and remove the left over seal. For mine I removed the chrome from the plastic shroud. Just like the SE headlights. Used oven cleaner to remove the chrome. Spray on and rinse off. Works great. I painted the reflectors because it was easier the spraying with oven cleaner and getting water everywhere. You’ll also need some torx bits. I think I used t20 and t10? I also went with profile peak led high beams. I didn’t want to rely on the bi-xenon function of the projector. I’m also running switchback halos on the projector and high beam. I’ll need to tap into the turn signal for the switch back function. I’m using posi-taps for all taping. I have plug and play harness for my raptor style grille lights I have. I’ll tap that harness for the running light function of the halo. Any Qs let me know. I hope to be done in the next few weeks. Luckily I scored a set of factory halogens so I don’t have to worry about having to rush. And... IMO, don’t sell your factory lights if you buy a second set to work on. I’m going to keep mine just in case the truck gets totaled or I trade it in. I figure I can sell my retros for more than I can sell my factory take offs. But I don’t seem to keep vehicles longer than 4-5 years. So this is what works for me.
The following 2 users liked this post by Dunatic619:
doug97gxe (11-12-2018),
krisjackson72 (12-21-2018)
#18
Awesome. I’ve decided to go with the h1 also after researching it more. When you say you removed the chrome from the shroud, are you talking about the shroud for the hid projector? I’m looking at the black shrouds from RFS since I’m wanting to paint the inside of the headlight black. I’m not sure what I’m going to do with the high beam. Im thinking of buying extra h1 projectors and using them as “dummy” lights just for looks. My biggest question is on the DRLs. I would really like to add a led strip around the outer headlight like the 15-17 Anzo headlights with switchback function. I’m completely lost in knowing how to tap into the run lights though to make it work. I’ll be keeping in touch. Any pics would be great. Thanks
The following users liked this post:
AdamGT (10-21-2020)