tomjv

I have a set of Baja XL80s on the way for my 2015 F150. S3 told me they plug into/run off the OEM circuit, which is relay protected.
EHHHH! Baja told me, "NO!", I need to run a new dedicated circuit. Only the lower model XL series will run on the OEM circuit.


I want to avoid my typical functional, but Mickey Mouse wiring this time.
I'm thinking I need a nice fuse/relay box to mount under the hood.
Then I can run:
one lead from Battery>Box
one lead from Box>ground (for the relays)
leads from each fused/relay circuit terminal>device
Device>grnd


Am I missing anything?
What's a good box?
I found this one which looks pretty nice, although it's not water tight.
Blue Sea Systems ST Blade ATO/ATC Fuse Blocks
EDIT>>woops, there's no relays here. I'm still looking.

My lights are 80 watts each, 6amps. Can/should I run them on a single relay and 15amp fuse?


TomJV




Additional relay info:
http://www.rattlebars.com/avalanche/relay_basics.html

230748

Who's S3??? Because they were wrong, as you know. We're an authorized Baja Dealer and I can tell you those puppies pull some power. So never use any OEM circuits, not enough juice/big enough wires.

WHERE are you installing these XL80s?

fcancer

why wouldent you just use a decent $15 Wiring Harness Kit

elricfate

Because they're liars. You should really make your own wiring harness if you don't want a car fire (under high load applications).

When I say they're liars, I've specifically gotten three different harnesses that claimed to be copper wire and were, in fact, copper tinned aluminum. You know what happens when aluminum gets too much power? It melts and then here comes the fire.

elricfate

You could still get the fuse block, it would come off the battery and fuse any relays you run off the other end of it.

Battery > Fuse block > Relay > Light

Bosch 5 pin relays are a good call here. It's how I wired up mine. Also, I have about 7 amps on a 30 amp relay at any given time, fused with a 15 amp fuse in a block under the hood. It's a solid and safe way to run the power circuits.

tomjv

I wound up ordering one of these:




It's overkill, but it's waterproof.
I'll use an inline fuse(like always) off the battery to supply the relay.
I'll check out the harness they provide. I assume it's top notch, being it's BD, if not I'll fab one.


I ordered a cheesy floor switch from EBay. I figure I can run the lights like old school HI beams.
The last time I had a set of auxiliary lights installed, they ran them to a button on the dash. That SUCKED! You're constantly fumbling for the button to dim them for oncoming cars.


I'd much rather have them(the relay) on an ON/OFF toggle via OEM HI beam current, but I have no idea where to tap HI beam current.
Done that way;
OFF = OFF
ON = ON, only when OEM HI beams are on. Dimming the OEM HIs would shut the auxiliary lights.
My installer guy was like, "That's impossible. It's all done with computers". Really? ; |


Anyway, if I ever figure it out, it's a pretty simple mod inside, under dash. The hardest part is where to put the switch.


TomJV

230748

All my relays are 40 amps (30/40 I think). Because... well because I draw a LOT of power for my stuff lol and ya never know.

What exactly are you trying to do though you didn't tell us what you are doing, where they are going...

If you are trying to turn them on from the high beam... easy actually

Wire your relay to power and ground
Wire the relays trigger wire to your high beams positive line.
Wire the relays NO power line to your baja lights power (NO = Normally Open, no power until your high beam triggers it, usually green or blue on the relay but it'll tell you)

Then baja ground goes to your vehicle chasis (or a central grounding point if you have one).

So when your high beams turn on, a signal will go to the relay, thus sending voltage to the bajas over a thicker wire.

That'll get you turning the lights on/off via your high beams (highs on, lights on, highs off, lights off).

If you also want to be able to turn the bajas on via a separte switch, no problem. Wire one side of the switch to a positive source, the other side back to the relay (same line the high beam trigger is on) HOWEVER... you also need to install a diode, so that when you power the switch on that power line does NOT go over to the high beam.

I'd install two diodes, one after the switch, on it's way to the relay trigger.
The 2nd on the high beam trigger wire going to the relay trigger.

You want a 1 diode that is basically 1 way, so that power cannot go BACK. I think it's a diode i'm talking about right? Or something else?

elricfate

Most bosch style are 30 sustained 40 surge.

230748

Yeah good relays are. The cheaper ones you find on amazon are not however, so always buy a quality Relay.

When you get as many lights as me you'll wire up something like this:

fcancer

I have no problem making my own harnesses when needed for specific situations,But I also have no problem using M/T HD harnesses. Depending on the application they are 14g stranded copper(i forget weather they were tinned or not)
Iv also gotten a 16gM/T, and it was alum.
Rigid industries 16g wire harnesses are also alum